1st question: An Advance Auto printout showed error code 332 (EGR flow insufficient). Their aftermarket part # (E8TE-9F483-D2A) doesn't match my OEM part # (F2TE-9F483-B4A). The aftermarket images are also different, since it has a flattened area near one of the mounting bolts. To further complicate things, my local Ford dealer said the part # is E9PZ9H473D. Are all these options common and/or will I run into trouble with the E8TE aftermarket part? The 8th digit in my VIN is a "Y".

2nd question: My confusion over replacement parts led me to clean my OEM unit today. I may have been overzealous with the cleaner, and I can now see the orange diaphragm as I look at the EGR valve from the side. It almost seems as if it slid down its chamber. The plunger/spring doesn't catch on it, yet. Will this correct itself after vacuum is reapplied, or do I have to resort to getting a new one as in my 1st question.

I appreciate any inputs. Thanks.

 

1st Answer: Codes do NOT mean to blindly replace ANY part, so stop throwing money at it. It's the least effective & most expensive way to fix anything. A '93 4.9L doesn't have an EGR flow sensor, anyway, so that code can NOT mean there's anything wrong with the EGR valve. Even if the valve was welded shut or sawed off the engine, it wouldn't set that code.

The correct response to ANY code is to LEARN what it means & how it applies to the system & vehicle it applies to. If you plan on fixing your own truck, buy a Haynes manual & read it. Then buy a few tools (a cheap digital multimeter is enough for this job) & learn how to use them properly (Haynes practically walks you thru it).

In fact, you probably just have a vacuum leak somewhere on the R side of the engine; usually the "coffee can" rusts out.

If you've had enough of fixing your own truck, take it to a pro that you trust now & pay what he asks.

2nd Answer: You're learning the hard way not to mess with things you don't understand, but refer back to Answer #1. Haynes tells precisely how to test the EGR, and it's probably OK. You can use engine vacuum instead of buying a vacuum pump, but the MityVac is cheap & effective. WalMart & Sears carry it for $25-55.

 

Ah yes, the beauty of the internet for some is that it provides the ability to condescend to anyone without personal interaction. Nice. I don't make my living working on vehicles, but I make every effort to "LEARN" as much as I can about them. They were designed/made by another human being, and as such, are not above anyone's realm of understanding.

This was my 1st post in any forum of this kind, and as such, it's the lone problem I haven't been able to diagnose, yet. That said, I haven't "thrown" any money at it or "blindly" replaced any part. The post was merely another step in "LEARNING" where the problem lies.

I forgot to state that it was a 4.9L, so your knowledge of Fords seems fairly decent. However, my '93 has an EVP sensor, which by reference, indicates flow rate based on the valve's position. I can post a picture if you like. Or I can check my Hayne's manual (completely forgot about that I had one), so for that, I thank you. The rest will be filed accordingly.

 

That wasn't condescention - it was intended to be terse to get your attention, without being insulting. It appears to have worked, other than you seem to have missed much of the useful info contained above.

I'm very familiar with all forms of Ford EGR management, including an EVP. That's how I know there's no flow sensor (PFE or DPFE) on a '93. I installed a '94 4.9L into my '83 Bronco, and it's virtually identical to yours.

In the future, you don't need to go to a parts store or anywhere else to read the codes. It only takes a paperclip (jumper wire) & the procedure described in the colored text in this thread. There are also links to the full code list in that thread, but there are other descriptions available that might be easier to read, like the one on FordFuelInjection.com .

 

Sorry it has taken so long for me to complete this thread, but I just forgot about it after fixing the issue. Anyway, read on if you care to hear the solution.

All,

Thanks for your help in this matter. Turns out the fault was in the ECM. There are (2) 47uF, 16V, electrolytic caps in the ECM. Both had "leaked" and one in particular had damaged a trace near it. This may be a common fail mode in the ECM's as some repair sites state they'd replace high fail items with more robust ones. It's just something to consider if this happens to one of you.

I thought about buying another ECM, but the fact I couldn't return it made me pursue other options. I wound up replacing both caps just to be safe and added some buss wire to the trace. I had 5.0V across the cap where VREF and SIG RTN are located when connected to a 12V P.S.. I installed the ECM last night and fired her up. It took only a few minutes to "re-learn" everything, so now it's time to determine where all those screws and bolts go ...

Thanks,
Mike

 

Well, the ECM gave up the ghost today. I pulled out the driveway, the truck stumbled a bit and two stop signs later died. The telltale fried electronic component smell gave it away. Luckily, I was only a few hundred yards from home and had some friends push it back.

I would attach images, but for some reason nothing happens when I click the attachment icon. This all may be a cautionary tale, as I opted not to replace the 3rd cap on the PCB since it looked solid in 2007. The two caps that I had replaced earlier (along with a jumper / buss wire near one of them) are still solid. The third, green cap is awfully close to where the burn occured.

So I'm off to find a replacment, as this is unrepairable. From what I've seen so far, a replacement (not necessarily new) will be ~$200 ... a cap was $1 or so. Does anyone know of a reputable ECM supplier, i.e. they replace "high wear" items before re-selling. I would be disappointed if I pay $200 and the same thing happens shortly down the road.

 

Look on rockauto.com. You could also take a chance on a junkyard unit.

 

You can drive on almost any 4.9L EEC-IV until you find the right one for your truck, or get yours rebuilt. My local parts stores offer rebuilds for $80-150 with some warranty, but I prefer junkyard parts. My truck, my CV, & the truck I built for a friend use JY parts, and are VERY reliable.

 

I wish I could have remanuf mine, but it actually fried too much for that to occur. I could literally press through the layers without much force, so I'm looking at either a remanuf'd (with a likely lost core charge, since mine is of no use to them) or a junkyard one. I would attach an image, but for some reason when I click the little paper clip nothing happens.

 

This forum does not allow attachments.

 

OK, thanks.