I respect your caution. FYI My fans are hardly ever on. Any transverse mounted front wheel drive vehicle by design has to have an electric fan. Out of the countless millions of these vehicles how many do you think have fan failures? Your 99 if it is a V8 has fail safe cooling. It works, I have driven miles with no coolant in the engine.

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I just installed a Troyer kit in my '01 Expy 5.4 this weekend. The Low speed controller started clicking/vibrating like mad when the fan came on. Now, the fan stays on even with the key out of the ignition. This seems to be the same problem as OG. The other fan/controller work fine. I tried calling BOTH phone numbers in the installation sheets, but one is disconnected and the other cuts off in midstream during the outgoing message. The Expy didn't even make it out of the driveway before I had a failure. This sucks!

 

dude that sucks! It seems the controllers are the week points in these "quality" kits. I would send it back and get a refund!

 

I just lost the other controller. I took the Expy down to O'Reilly to return the fan clutch wrench loaner and when I got back home 30 minutes later, the High Temp fan stayed on after I had turned the car off. What the !!!!

 

Just out of curiosity what temps are the controllers set to turn on at and how did you determine the temp at the rad?

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I used a infrared point-and-shoot thermometer from Ryobi, holding the sighting dot halfway between the 2 probes. The probes were mounted approximately 3" apart, inserted into the 3rd "row" of fins from the top of the radiator. I set the Low Temp controller to come on around 183 and the High Temp controller at ~194.

 

Do you have the ignition lead hooked up? I have mine set up to stay on even if the ignition is off. Your cut on temps seem low, What thermostat are you running? stock 192? I had the low come on at 200 and the hi at 210 or when the a/c is on. At 183 your fan turns on before the thermostat opens.

 

The ignition lead is hooked up correctly. I tested this when the problem came up initially. I used both a circuit tester and my Fluke digital multimeter. I'm a chemical engineer (for the company that makes Craftsman Hand Tools, among others), so I know how to trace a schematic and troubleshoot most electrical problems. And I set the temps as per the Troyer installation manual. According to them, a non-contact IR thermometer has a 20F differential from the actual water/coolant temperature. Accordingly, you must set the temperature 20F lower than your actual desired set point.

In any case, the fans should NOT be running while the key is out of the ignition. I've contacted Troyer today, and after a round of troubleshooting, they have agreed to send out 2 new controllers. The bad news: they are back ordered for at least a week and a half. As of right now, I'm disconnecting the fans when I park the car.

 

I run a relay to the ignition lead feeding the controllers. Terminal 87a feeds power when the relay is not activated and when it is activated power goes to terminal 87 which is not connected. It acts as a cut off switch for when I cross deep water. I use a red switch so I know the power is cut. Just for and giggles test the temp at the thermostat housing and then at the rad where you initially set your temps from. What is the temp difference when the housing is at 195?

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after reading on this mod, i have noticed that different kits are calling for different positions for mouning the temperature sensor... a couple posts above, it is mentioned that the sensore if 3 rows down from the top, sensing the temperature as the coolant comes out of the engine.

now, on the dccontrol website, it states to sense from a point where the coolant will enter the engine.... this makes more sense to me. you want to control the temperature going into the engine, since forced air while driving will also help the cooling, you might not need to run the fans quite as much.....

i wonder if this is partly why there are overheating issues with the controllers (when temp is sensed at the engine's outlet)?

 

The housing is around 210 when the sensors are around 190. So the 20'F delta seems about right.

 

The replacement controllers came in. I just put them in this morning. I set them as I had before and they seemed to be working just fine. Because they kept cycling on and off, I seriously doubt the statement on the box of a 10 degree on/off differential. After taking the Expy around the block for a test drive, one of them stays on after the key is taken out. I've had it with these controllers. I'm getting a Flexalite and sending this Troyer crap back.

 

Since we trashed troyer's controllers and fuse sockets and replaced it with auto zone's controller and better fuse sockets, I haven't had any problem, yet. I have been to 3 off trips and driven countless miles without a hitch. Auto Zone Controllers, still holding strong.

 

I doubt you'll have to worry anymore, mine have been going strong for 2-3 years now and the only thing I had to do was wire in my A/C compressor signal since I just fixed my A/C

 

I disconnected the one controller that was always on and took a trip to Autozone. When I parked to go into the store, the other fan was still running. I bought 2 controllers ($35 ea). They had the same part number, but one was a Torq Performance brand and the other was another brand (Imperial by somebody else). They both fired right up and performed as expected with the 10'F differential between on and off.