I have not. Not charged for yet either. But I did not order until last day.

 

Check the amperage rating of the relay. There are different sizes available. 20, 40,50 are the most commonly available. I would think the 40 amp would be good. 20 amp would be too small.

 

I have not received them either, I had been getting a little antsy, and called them last Monday and they said that they were busy putting the orders together, and were hoping to get them out later in the week. Obviously they didn't get them out the door, but hopefully soon this week they will.

 

Hopefully they will ship this week. I am about 2 hours from Troyer. I called them as well and they were busy putting these kits together in order to ship. Guess we just have to sit and wait!

 

I'm working on a different wiring scheme, I thought I had it, but I found a wrinkle... I'll see if I can fix it tomorrow when I'm awake again.

 

how do you draw up these diagrams? are you using a special software designed for it or something?

 

Hey guys,

For those interested, I've been thinking about how I would wire my E-Fans to switches (if at all). I decided to take an academic approach (i.e. doing it for the sake of doing it) and drew up a visio diagram that should work. (If you notice something that will not work, then let me know, and I will correct).

This is the fourth iteration of the diagram. I was misinformed as to how the switched worked (until I actually got them), so now I had to rewire the diagram so the LEDs in the switches work as intended.

The real advantage of this setup, that I realized once it was complete, is that you don't need the switches hooked up for the fans to operate normally. So, if for some reason you want to remove the switches and still need to use your truck, you don't have to worry about hooking them back up.



Here's how it works:

* Provides a manual override switch for both fans (SW3)
* Provides manual ON/OFF for each fan (SW1 and SW2)
* All switches act inverse of the relays (i.e. when switch is in ON position, relay is in OFF position.. and visa versa) This means the LED on the switch lights up when the thermistors or fans are OFF. (If you want to wire it so the lights come on when the fans or thermistors are on, swap the wires between the 87 and 87a terminals).
* SW3 in OFF position lets thermistors act normally, and SW3 in ON provides power to the Troyer "override" wire (green on the thermitors) to manually turn the fans on through the thermistors.
* SW1/2 in OFF position turns corresponding relays ON, thus allowing normal operation. In ON position, the switches turn the relay OFF.

In other words.

SW1/SW2/SW3 Operation
OFF/OFF/OFF Fans operate normally using Troyer thermistors as if no modifications were made
ON/OFF/OFF Thermistors running, FAN1 operated by Thermistors, FAN2 OFF
OFF/ON/OFF Thermistors running, FAN1 OFF, FAN2 operated by Thermistors
ON/ON/ON Thermistors bypassed, FAN1 OFF, FAN2 OFF (BAD!)
OFF/OFF/ON Thermisters bypassed, FAN1 ON, FAN2 ON
OFF/ON/ON Thermisters bypassed; FAN1 ON, FAN2 OFF
ON/OFF/ON Thermisters bypassed; FAN1 OFF, FAN1 ON

This is not ALL iterations available, but should give you an idea of how this setup works.

So, with that being said, insert standard disclaimer here... I'm not responsible for any damage caused by your use of this diagram and information, correctly or incorrectly.

 

I happen to have access to MS Visio... but I've done similar in photoshop, so I'm sure something like Gimp (open source photo editor software) could do the same thing.

 

kuruption,

Nice work on the schematics but you should add the terminal numbers for the noobs. FWIW I spent 20 minutes trying to pick apart the schematics but the circuit logic is sound. BTW red Leds are very bright. If you ever go to manual control the #3 red led will be on. At night it will be a great distraction. If you play in the water at night and want to turn off the fans you will have the #1 &2 Led on. Now that is good because you want to be reminded that they are off but not too bright. My switches are not Leds and they are bright enough to be a distraction in the dark. If ever you change the 12v accessory to the battery you risk having the fans run with the engine off. All my fan circuits are hot in RUN only. When the key is in my hand the fans cannot turn on. You could give someone a heart attack if he was wrenching on your truck and a fan pops on.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier

 

Couple points.

Regarding terminal numbering... sigh, updated.

Regarding the red LEDs...

Red LEDs tend to have lower output than other colors. I have Red LEDs in my map and dome lights. The advantage to red is that it doesn't cause your pupils to dilate, so they may be bright, but they shouldn't be distracting (the reason bright in a dark spot bothers us is because the huge amount of extra light our pupils are letting into the eye), so I don't believe the red LEDs will be a problem.

I also like red because, as mentioned, my map and dome lights are red... and my truck is red

Regarding the +12V vs accessory

Also a good point. Updated the diagram. SW3 now switches accessory power to the thermistors' accessory power. Thermistors now receive power directly from battery. Fans now powered directly by battery; require either SW3 in OFF position or individual thermistors to be in ON position. Had to add another diode, as well.

Mind taking another look at the updated v3.1 diagram?

 

Troyer said they wouldn't charge until they were ready to ship so they weren't just holding your money. So...when you see the charge go through it should be ready to ship.

 

I just received my USPS "Click and Ship" notification. It has been labelled and is due to ship out tomorrow.

 

Sweet.. I ordered mine the last day with the pullies... and the X cal. Cant wait to start turning wrenches.This site is starting to cost me.....

 

Mine should be here tomorrow according to ups

 

FYI, made some changes to my wiring diagram, so if anyone was planning on using it, you may want to check out the changes. Thanks.