It really doesn't matter from a circuit protection perspective... and it's the way troyer has it hooked up. I didn't want to change it.

 

That is incorrect. The fuse will still blow and protect the circuit. It's a common misconception that fuses need to be on the +12V side of the line as we usually see it done this way, when in fact they can exist on either the +12V or ground (the same current passes through both wires).

As I mentioned, the fuse from Troyer comes on the ground side of the wire out of the controller (maybe more about protecting the controller?), but if you are really worried about it, you can put a fuse on the power line up near the battery as you normally would.

 

If the motor shorts to ground it will not blow the fuse as the new shorted circuit will bypass the fuse. I was taught that the reason circuits are protected on the + side is to protect the circuit in case of shorting to ground. The closer the fuse is to the battery the safer it is. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier.

 

That is true. I guess you would have to look at the viability for a particular item of shorting to ground. In the case of the fans, I guess it's possible. Either way, as mentioned, this is the was Troyer has it, so I would say the question/concern/complaint should go to him.

 

I got mine today and wow this kit is nice! The even include a little plastic tray with every wiring connector you need. Won't be able to install it until I get my Edge/Gryphon back so I can check the coolant temp.

 

If the motor does short to ground the fuse will blow. It will not blow if the motor housing is grounded by some other means than the ground wire. As the fans appear to be all plastic the fuse will blow. Only thing with the fuse on the ground side, should the power wire some how get grounded, the power wire will start an electrical fire back to the battery. I will be installing fuse on power wire to fans. Just for safety sakes and piece of mind.

 

I will contact Troyer tomorrow. The fact is that the kit can be positive switched as easily as ground switched, it's just a matter of changing which wire goes to ground and which goes to +12V. I'll see what he says and, if he OK's the change to a +12V switched circuit (given the issues we've been discussing here), then I will revise the diagrams (mine and my drawing of the instruction's default setup) accordingly.

 

My fans showed up last night. I just about fell over. Only two hours in Customs according to USPS Track and Confirm. I guess there is at least one person at Canada Customs that is doing there job. lol.

 

I just got off the phone with Mike (an hour conversation.. wow).

I asked him about the fusing issue. He said he was not concerned about it. He said that, yes, it is possible that if the +12V wire going from battery to fans were to get cut and then be held to ground, a fire could result [personal note: your hand would get hot before the wire caught on fire if you did this]. He believes that this would be highly unlikely, even in a front-end of front-end offset collision unless it was done purposely or due to incorrect installation (he indicated he has had several F150s w/ efans in front end collisions without an issue).

He also indicated that if you're really, really concerned about the issue, you could install a fuse on the +12V wire, but this would void the warranty. This would be the same with any changes (such as mine, but oh well).

He also asked that if anyone has any further questions or concerns can contact him and he will explain.

 

i just about fell over today called troyer and have to wait another week if all goes well they will ship them out.. i guess that what i get for waiting till the last minute to order 5/15

 

I got mine installed over the weekend... with all of my lil changes. The only thing I didnt do was mount the switches inside the cab, mostly because I haven't decided where I want to mount them.

Overall it was a pretty decent success. I was confused when hooking up the A/C cluth wire from the efans to the thermistor relays. The A/C clutch wire shows -12V when the A/C is off, but then shows +12V when on. I didn't realize this at first thinking the wire was ground switched, and thought I had messed up the diagram for Relay3 and diode installs, but in the end proved to be correct. Despite not being mounted, the switches work as expected.

Some things I noticed driving up to the All Ford Nations in Carlisle on Saturday:

* Acceleration off the start is slightly better maybe, but I really noticed a difference in the upper RPM ranges (accelerating from like 60 to 80 while trying to pass idiots going slow in the left lane).
* Truck is much more quiet than it used to be (even with both fans running)... even the girlfriend noticed, and she never notices these types of things. If I knew there would be this type of change, I probably would have bought them just for this point.

BTW.. Carlisle was cool... tug of war between an F250 diesel and a GMC diesel (both owned by a Carlisle-local diesel performance shop) resulted in the GMC with a busted front axle.

 

Did you physically mount the Troyer controllers on the washer fluid resevoir as suggested in the directions or did you mount them elsewhere?

 

On the resevoir. I considered other places, but I also have my HID ballasts right there so the area was tight.

If you're not comfortable screwing down the controllers, you can use industrial velcro (available at like radio shack) or foamed double-sided tape.

 

Don't worry about it. I had concerns also about mounting the controllers in that location. But I have yet to hear of anyone having a problem with mounting it there. Just to be safe, I now use a funnel to fill my washer fluid so that it doesn't splash all over the place.

 

ha ha ha

Welcome to the party pal. Now you'll look for answers to your questions on your own, before giving him a call.