I have a friend who knows a friend who may be able to make some spacers in his spare time. I can find out in the next few days.
Dale says he used redline synthetic grease... I haven't got that far yet. You could call esm or the the guys at magnum powers and see what they use, if they'll tell...

 

Thanks, I'm gonna try and find some Redline tonight. Hopefully one of the *open* auto stores will have it.

I have 2 leads on people that may be able to make spacers also. I think it might be worth it to look into the phelonic spacers to though.

Here are a few decent threads on them:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=413565
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=495955
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=517168

 

You guys have me pumped!

I just picked up a M-112 blower on e-Bay and with that I am going to use it as a template to have a local machine shop make me a few spacers which I will then do before and after dynos with. Expensive template you say, well then I plan to do the port and polish job on it as well before slapping it on my truck. This post is most helpful, please continue with the results of everyones independant testing, likewise I will do the same.

P.S. I'll then sell the blower I have on the truck now to anyone who wants to do the same...

Later

 

Well good news is I got it together and it runs!!! Roads are wet so I couldn't do any testing.

Also got my spacer made:



only problem is I forget to get longer bolts so I had to put it back together without the spacer Oh well. Next time everything comes off ...

 

a phenolic 1/2" spacer should make a noticable diffrence over an aluminum 1/2" spacer. We use phenolic on my latemodels whenever the rules allow so.

 

Phenolic spacer questions. How much cooler would the intake have to be to notice a difference? Would the heat travel up through the screws anyway? Since the upper intake plenum has a paper gasket does that help? If you installed a phenolic spacer would sticking an ice bag on the intake plenum not cool as well as an aluminum spacer?
Hopefully i can get someone to make me a spacer on a CNC machine next week he wants to see a blower and intake plenum.

 

captain-did you make that yourself or have it made by a shop? what you going to do for a gasket, use some kind of sealer or get another paper one?

 

Okay, I was going to cut some material off of the top inside of the blower, but I got to reading a little and looking. Where I read the people say that the blower uses the outside edges to push the air so why would opening up the top help? I could understand how it would help if you did flow testing w/o the rotors turning or w/o the rotors installed. I decided to leave the top and sides alone.
Everyone says a rear entry blower is the best because air is taken in near the midline of the rotors and not dumped on top of the rotors like the design of the Lightning. So wouldn't it almost be better to have someone machine a plate which matched the inside top of the blower and have it stick in 1-2 cm towards the back of the blower case therby reducing the total area of the intake but maybe increasing the total air intake because of less turbulance. I think that by doing this along with a 1/2 inch spacer maybe more air would flow in.
I tried to figure out the area of the openings for the airflow and I think this is kinda right.
stock TB-about 46 cm^2
BABOLT TB-about 58^2
gasket matched upper plenum and upper blower case intake-about 67cm^2
???

If you used a spacer with a 1cm wide lip you would make the area of the intake about 54 cm^2 which is still bigger than the stock TB and only a little smaller than any single blade TB. I think.

 

If you guys have to trim the stock gaskets you are going to hate it. The stock upper manifold to blower gasket has a metal core and doesn't cut so easy. I got some good gasket material from the auto parts store and glued a slab of it onto each side of the spacer and put a book on it over night and then trimmed to fit with an exacto knife the next day.
Kind of a pain, but it turned nice.
Dale

 

here is some reading
here is another one

 

I made the spacer myself. A dremel Scroll saw and flap wheel and thats it I haven't put it on yet but what I am going to do is use the gasket on one side and RTV sealant on another. Once I get around to trying to redirect the air, I may just JB Weld it to place.


LatemodelRacer2 - I had the same questions as a Easter on that, also my goal was to get the spacer made by yesterday so I can have it for this weekend, well I got the spacer made but no time get longer bolts . It was to hard to find a place to make or get a slab so I can make a phenolic spacer.

 

Does the blower hold 4 oz's of oil? Thanks

 

capt.
using the sealing method that you mentioned, I would make sure that the rear 4 bolts are tight first before you put the spacers up front. If you have to adjust there height then that is what you have to do. What I'm afraid of is that the front spacers would be to short or to long and then tip the manifold and not allow it to seal to the blower were it matters most. I used a thicker "home cut" gasket set and didn't have to worry about this to much.

Jeffs
It takes a bottle and a half for a fill, I think 6oz.
Dale

 

Hey CAPTAIN or BADL
I plan on takeing the snout off for a hub removal, will all the oil come out of the drain hole with the pump or is it a real messy operation when you crack the front plate off ?????
Is there a seal or gasket inbetween the front snout and the body of the blower?
Sorry about all the questions.
Thanks in advance.

 

White
I think you can get most of the oil with a pump, if you dont then yes it will be a mess. There is no gasket to worry about the drive casting is sealed with glue, looks like red loktite to me.
Dale