The oil is only in the snout. It is sealed, nothing will come out by removing the blower from the engine.

 

Hey whats the worse that happens, I ruin it and have to get a KB or Works blower

Bruce - it's coming, I will have more pictures and writeups as the progress goes. And yes I wish I had some before numbers.

wkuper11 - I pulled the blower, then while it was out used a pump with a fluid container to draw out the fluid before I open the blower up. There wasn't much left when I opened it. For replacing the fluid I think it's about 8oz., and you can get the fluid the from Ford.


Anyone that has pulled the blower apart, what is a good or replacement grease to use on the rotor bearings inside the casing? The stock stuff is a blueish type grease.

 

capt.
I was afraid of this.....time to start typin

Ok the outlet was remachined in a mill. I stayed with the exact same shape but pushed everything out .100 or we could just round it off to an 1/8 inch after grinding.
After the mill work on the outlet, I used a die grinder and a lot of patience and dupilated the stock shape wich is a fairly large radius from the inside to the outside.

As far as flow data, I dont have it in front of me (I'm at work) but from memory I can tell you that a stock blower case with a stock upper manifold flowed 491.6 cfm 10" of H20 and the full boogy unit with all the porting and reshaping and clay work inside, it flowed 661 cfm. So it is possible to see 25 to 30% increase in flow. And all of the work is centered at the turn, your trying to get the air around that 180 degree turn and then load the rotors with a full charge of air.

There is epoxy on the floor of the upper manifold to reshape the short turn rad and make it more robust if you will. There is a spacer between the upper manifold and the blower case (1/2 inch tall) that adds more volume to the turn and then the roof and side of the blower case itself are blended into the whole mess. The 1/2 inch spacer is worth a flat 30 cfm on any blower.

Grease ?.....grease is the one thing I haven't nailed down yet. I use red line synth in mine and it seems to work fine. But the blue stuff that is in there has me bugged, I'm not sure if it some really special super grease of if it is just grease. I also use a loctite #518 on the flange wich is like red loctite in jelly form and torque the front cover bolts to around 20 ft lbs., they will take 25 lbs but you have to be careful of the bolts that go thru the dowels, there are less threads in those holes and they wont take as much torque.

When you add grease to the rear bearings, do not over do it. If you get to much grease in there it will hydraulic and push the rotors forward and they will rub on the case at the front of the blower. Also if you over do the grease it will push past the seals and coat the inside of your blower, go ahead and ask me how I know that . I have used dental floss to make sure that all the air comes out of the bearing cavity upon assembly. I put one string into each hole, and slide the rotor assembly into the case and then just pull the dental floss out, it helps leak the air past the seals.
I have some pictures on a CD somewhere and will look for them.
Have Fun
Dale-

 

I have personally seen both the inside of Bad as L's blower and his truck run 11.9XX 2 times,no spray or extra power adders. I can't attest to his weight however but I think he may be exaggerating by 1 pound..... J?K Dale..
Anyway this guy is very knowledgeable about what he is saying......just my witnessed opinions.... JR

 

Dam that was one seriously interesting post.
Awesome info everyone

Now if we can all just keep the dam oil out of the Blower, Intercooler, and Throttlebody. I now have the Breather Mod, the Spring loaded Check Valve Mod, the Oil Seperator Mod, and even just tonight when I checked the dam back of the Supercharger is still taking on oil. My next move is to rip all hoses and PCV out and just run two breathers, one on each side.

I need someone to tell me where the other line goes that Tee's off the PCV line. One to the Supercharger, the other to ???? tranny ???? CAN I PLUG THAT OFF TOO ???

Less that 6k on my L

All oil mods in my gallery

 

new updates and another page added to link above


Dale - amazing info!!! If you can find pictures and post them that would be great! If you let me still a few and put them on my site even better (of course you get all the credit).

 

capt.
Your welcome to the pictures and I do have them, but it might take me some time to get my chit together. I want to have my brother come over and take a few more. So give me some time and I will email them to you.
Dale

 

Great stuff guys!!! Thanks for the web page Capt; The pics are enlightening.

It looks like the bypass valve inlet is right in the middle of the high pressure zone. Has anyone given any thought to moving it outward or 'ovalizing' it, in order to get more surface area to maintain flow velocity into the blower? Maybe grinding slightly into the back of the casing, but leaving the entrance shrouded, and then filling the front with epoxy might help? This would probably decrease the efficiency of the bypass, but it was probably designed for OEM purposes anyway.

Thanks again for the great info guys!!!!

 

i was thinking the same thing with the bypass opening, what if you were to cover 1/3 or so of the bypass opening with expoxy to get the air to flow more smoothly into the blower? does anyone see any problems with this? maybe if you cover it up to much you may lose vaccum?

 

Bad as L, is this how you covered the slots? Do you think smoothing out the underside of the blower case helps anything? It is pretty rough and lots of ridges and dips.

I hope it holds okay.

 

Easterisland
That looks great, I didn't use quite that much glue but I did think about filling the bottom like you did. I put 2 thick patches on mine, one on each side of the outlet.

I wouldn't spend a lot of time smoothing that out, I don't think its in the way of anything.
Dale

 

I should have did this last year when I first emailed you about it. Do you still have the egr disconnected or a plate on it?

 

I did not eve come close to that much glue! At least you don't have to worry about it blowing off.

 

Bad As L,
Are you saying that you have a 1/2" spacer between the upper intake and the blower housing, and that it adds about 30cfm to the flow characteristics of the blower?

Great stuff here, keep it up.
Chris

 

I'll just wait until the white chit starts to fall before I yank the blower off. Who knows, maybe I'll willn't even waste any time with the stock blower........hehe