The whole application specific kits are not necessary in our opinion as the main differences are fuel source adapters. We have adapters for any kind so just tell us where you want to get fuel from (test port, banjo fitting, hose, etc.) and we will supply you with the right adapter.

We made a Viper kit because of the dual tubes that need dual injectors, and a friend that owns a Viper makes a special bracket to house the microswitch for an easy and clean install. A TPS switch is available if wanted.

For most applications the 150i will support up to 150 bhp roughly and the 300i will support up to 300 bhp roughly. Our kits will work with any application because we do have various fuel adapters and our injectors are the only ones with screw on retaining hats and spacers to fit in any intake tube whether it's plastic, metal, or rubber with ease.

To answer your question you can chose between the 150i or 300i kit. Depends on your power needs.

Our kits don't necessarily make tons more power but usually a bit more because they are more efficient. Our main advantage is our solenoids are designed and matched to pulse with a progressive. Progressing is the key to making more power and accelerating quicker. There is no other solenoid or sets of solenoids that are designed and matched like ours to work with a progressive unit.

All other solenoids have to open once and the close at the end of a run. This is why you may use a kit and not have problems as there is minimal wear and tear on the solenoids. Try and pulse these same solenoids where they have to work 100 times as much and see how long they last.

 

"When the ZEX kits came out, I looked into those as well. I don't like them. They are too inconsistant. Dyno sheets I was getting from customers were showing A/F would change up and down on back to back pulls with no changes. I've never seen another nitrous kit do that. I have access to buying them and could sell them, but chose not too."


This will explain everything on this comment. Trev came to the same conclusion as you and will tell why.
http://www.noswizard.com/bboard/view...84&forum=4&142


"As for Denny and Racetested, I am also interested in his posts. I am always looking for better products, to use myself and bring to my customers. I like ideas that go against the grain, especially if they perform better. I am not a nitrous manufacturer, so I cannot dispute the hard parts. I just know tuning, and which kits perform better than others. I'd love to compare one of his kits to our current PSP/NX kit, to see just what kind of difference there is."

Smart man and we will be happy to work with you.

"I will say one thing though about Racetested/Highpower. I bought one of the old Maximizers through NX. It was the biggest piece of junk I ever spent my hard earned money on. It never worked right from day one. It went back to NX three times to be "repaired" and still doesn't work right. When NX stopped carrying them, I was now stuck with a very expensive paperweight. Denny from Racetested e-mailed me a while back promoting Racetested/Highpower to my company about being the company that made the old Maximizers for NX and that they could still be bought from him. I replied asking for help with mine and never got a response. This is not a bash, just something that really pissed me off, as I still have this paperweight sitting here. But I'd definitely love to get more info on their systems."

I will say with all honesty that I never got your e-mail if this was the case. NX could and can not fix your Maximiser as they know nothing about them. Please contact me again and I will personally make sure your unit is fixed or replaced with a new one. What problems did you have? Highpower has now gone with a new manufacturer as the old one was having qaulity issues and not implementing the ideas Trev wanted added.

 

Bitchin. That's customer service .

Let's see if we can get something going. I can probably get a local customer truck with our PSP/NX kit on it, to test one of the Highpower kits on, back to back. We have an in house dyno and can check power and A/F. As for my Maximizer, e-mail me what I need to do to get it back to you at powersurgeperf@aol.com. If I recall, at first it just wouldn't work at all. When it came back from NX, it worked, but just for a few times then stopped. When it came back the second time, they said they found nothing wrong with it, but it started working again. Then it started screwing up again. Now it will come on, but as soon as it hits 100% it resets itself. If you activate it from under the hood and watch the display, you can see it work and count up to 100%, then it just dies, and reboots.

 

Sal,
I look forward to working with you and all the L owners.

Ahhh, that problem. The damn manufacturer wouldn't warranty their own products so Trev had to fix the units. This was the last straw for Trev to go with a new manufacturer that is much more professional and higher quality in making his progressive units. After a bit of luck and some testing Trev found that owners need to wire a 200microfahrad capacitor across the orange and white wire (This is on the new style units, I'm not sure if the wires are the same on the old units). Seems when the units would reach 100% they would reset themselves as described to the start power. This has been fixed internally on the latest units along with a whole batch of new features including a bottle contents counter. The latest batch is still in production and will hopefully be done soon.

I'll contact you personally. We will set you up with a new progressive unit when done so you have the latest and greatest to test with.

 

A friend that turned me onto this board informed me that I risk the chance of being banned for promoting and not being a vendor. I hope this is not the case as I believe we can be an asset to you. I will also apply to be a vendor after I get a chance to breath. Things are a bit hectic lately.

 

Well, if we can get setup with you to sell your products, than Racetested/Highpower can go through PSP for support on this board .

 

*Too the best of my knowledge* our eatons overspun speeds, materials, and most importantly CLEARANCES were not designed for these temp swings, added mass (intake charge), & higher than designed loads.

Since you don't yet have any 5.4L S/C versions out there? Are there any other similar projects running your system on a positive displacement blower w/a IC system?


Our lower intake & IC were neither designed or tested for flowing anything but air. Now we are trying to add nitrous (not a problem most likely) AND fuel. The problems I have a hard time understanding are 2 things mostly.

1) The IC *WILL* collect a portition of the atomized fuel during a 11-13 second blast. (I used to design screens in automotive HVACs to do this very thing). So.. the atomized fuel will have a hard time staying in that state. The bottom of my IC has a shape that does'nt lend it'self to the "bernoulli effect".
Point is... only a portition of the fuel is going to get to the cylinder if done this way.

I do suppose there are many people out there doing this anyway? With success too! Just from a design standpoint it's waaaaay less than optimal for ensuring equal cylinder distribution of the ultra important FUEL.

2) Seems to me the nitrous injection would be able to have it's greatest effect on reducing intake temps after the heat has been added. Not before.

In my understanding the best setup on a ford 5.4L S/C would be to inject the nitrous just after the blower and the fuel at each cylinder.


It just makes me worried to run this on my lightning w/o seeing it at least functioning on a few 5.4L SC motors first. Looks like Rob is willing to be our first guiney pig..

Rich

 

Sal,
Sounds good to me. I hope you received my e-mail so we can get things started?

 

Rich,
I have to step out but I will respond in the next hour or two. I can say this quickly. Sal may be able to point out these issues better as we are not an application specific specialist. We make nitrous kits but working with Sal will hopefully help us answer these questions better. I did get a reply from Trev and will post the info when I get back.

 

Rich,
I understand your question about intake temps but I don't see how you came to a conclusion on the ideas? All the nitrous does is reduce the intake charge temps and unless you have a huge dose there will not be a negative temperature that is extremely cold. There will be no difference in using nitrous as far as inlet temps go than if you drive your truck on a 100 degree day and 30 degree day. Has someone done scientific testing to say that the increased load is bad for the rotors? I just can't see how nitrous is bad for the s/c and I have never heard of it being bad. I know nitrous has been used on many positive displacement s/c's over the years with great sucess but I can't track down any customers to get ther testimonies.

The Xterra on our site uses a small M62 eaton and there have been no problems at all. I can say that my plugs are as much of a bitch to inspect and change as an L, but I do inspect and my distribution is equal on all the plug readings. In fact with a less than perfect tune it dropped a full second with a 50 shot. Plus the 100 shot that took 2 seconds off the base time was recorded with a vacuum line blowing off 3/4 down the track and dumping all the boost. That's why I fitted a boost controller. I was pushing 15 psi on a stock motor with a 100 shot and kept over boosting. I've yet to run with the new boost controller, but mid 13's will not be impossible on a stock motor and good tune.

Nitrous can't have it's greatest effect after the blower in reducing intake temps as nothing is instant. One thing Trev has found out is that placing the injector to close to the valves will result in the nitrous bouncing off the valves and not alowing proper injection but a negative effect.

Here is Trev's reply to your strainer theory.
"MANY people for MANY years managed OK with
suck through carb systems (which are basically the same
although not as well atomised as fuel and nitrous), before
injection systems became popular. Going through the blower
"aids" distribution (if it has a wide opening into the plenum)_as
it has to expand along it's axis. Where he gets a "strainer" from
and then concludes that this will cause "droplets" is beyond me.
What part does he liken to a strainer as I don't know of any part
of an inlet manifold that's akin to a strainer. If he means the
plenum and the runners it's NOTHING like a strainer".

Keep in mind that we are not exactly familiar with your I/C. We are more than happy to keep working with you until we sort your questions out. If anyone has a picture of the I/C and lower intake manifold this would be a great help?

I know I have not fully answered all your questions but with time I am confident we'll sort this out the best we can. I agree that on high power levels that a direct port will be needed as A/F is more crucial. If you are just looking for 100 shot on a 5.4 motor then less than perfect A/F and distribution is not as crucial as each cylinder is not exposed to an extreme increase over stock. I could take your motor and spray 25 bhp of nitrous with no added fuel and be fine as this is nothing on a big motor like the L has. This is pretty much what is sometimes happening with the Zex kit as it is inconsistant as exlpained. "NOW" these rules only apply to our kit as our unique jet location makes a big difference in curing a severe lean out condition and poor delivery. Along with us having the only injector with a dual nitrous outlet for better atomization and mixing.

 

Ya I need a little time to chew on all this myself. Again, I'm not experienced with nitrous. So my questions very well may be ignorant about some basics.

I'll post back tonight after giving this some more thought.

Rich

 

How did you use a boost controller on a supercharged engine?

 

Tell him to actually look at a 99+ 5.4L S/C intercooler system.

Rich

 

When I fitted the aftermarket smaller pulley and intake I was getting about 12 psi in the cold temps 40 degrees or so. When I would spray I was reaching 14-15 psi and detonating a bit off the line under load, even with toulene added and overboosting at the end of the run. I'm like this is no good at all as I'm running to much boost and can get more from nitrous and less boost. Plus I wanted to run more with just 93 octane pump fuel as I use the power more on the road than track. I figured with nitrous and a small blower I should be able to keep up with a bone stock Lightning. Sad that I need all this to keep up with a stock L, but I like my SUV and am keeping it for now instead of something faster stock.

So I have some knowledge of turbos and boost controllers. I'm thinking that a turbo car has the same boost bypass set-up and they can adjust their boost so why not a s/c motor? So I fitted a controller by: 1) putting the pressure side line on the inlet of the controller. 2) capping off my air filter line to the outlet side(not needed anymore). 3) running the outlet side of the controller to the actuator. I can now turn my boost down about 3-4 psi.

I have never tried to turn up the boost on a stock pulley and am not even sure if this will work the same as a turbo since the rpm's are not spinning the blower any faster and nothing is being bled off stock like a turbo. But I know you can go in reverse and bleed excess boost off but not dump it like before. Not to mention I build boost faster and hold at a more stabil pressure. All this and regular driving is like normal under vacuum with no problems associated with the bypass mod(weird noises, SES light). Just cap off the factory bypass solenoid where you remove the lines.

 

Rich,
I will try and find a picture and see what we come up with. A friend said it looks like a radiator so I see your point now. I'll get back to you when I have more answers.