Thanks much for the kind words, Jim. I try to do the things you say, but I need to make one thing clear -- I have never tested anything in the engine department. I only rely on data collected from others. I'm just a bench racer. My engine is still stock, so I haven't yet had an opportunity to collect any data -- or blow the engine.

We all have to rely on hearsay, it's just the qualifications of the speaker that count. When Gregg Evans, Stan Martin, Richard Holdener, Corky Bell, Jim Bell, etc. speak, I listen. For instance, when the guy who helped design the so-called "Cobra R" water pump posts, I listen. On the other hand, when Joe Six Pounder starts rambling about the "better throttle response" he got from the pump, I just shut it off.

But thanks again for the compliments. In my line of work, spouting off without confidence in your sources can be disastrous.

 

BTW, did you know that Sal at PSP has a program that where in your "Knock Sensor" is turned on and has been able to build the power back up while running this ON sensor mode? Two of us down here in Texas are running that program and loving every minute of it during this cold weather spirt we are having. No more winter knock in street mode with the street tune.

 

All I can says is 'wow'! What an awesome set of responses from the original post. Thanks for all your help. I have truly learnt alot these past few days. One last thought though that I haven't heard discussed a whole lot.....with this extra power being added and tunes that make the shift harder, aren't our trannies looking to say goodbye? Either way, I will keep you all informed of my progress, as I am sure I will have a few more questions in the days ahead as I rebuild my baby.

Michael

 

I dont want to add to the war butm It is getting cold here and i have the same mods you have . Do you know what kind of timing you were running on your chip? you can email it to me if you like orangebando20@aol.com

 

QUICKCANUCK,

Give me a way to talk to you......there are some very fast Lightnings just south of you in the Seattle Area!!!! Mine being one of them.

I can also do your motor for you at a very good price! I also have ways to get parts at a very good price.

The ball is in your court. Get ahold of me.


Herb

 

That`s good to know man. I also have one of Sal`s street programs and love it. I recently attended a Lighting Dyno Day and there were a few guys who had just about the same mods as I did and my truck still made more power with Sal`s tune. His chip is worth every penny.

 

Sorry to hear of you misfortune. Good Luck on a speedy resolve...

 

Ford is NOT at fault even if the rods are not as strong as YOU would like.I know ford has a problem with piston noise but not rod problems in STOCK motors.And to be honest when ford started correcting some of the piston noise they created another problem much worse for us stay WOT longer than a 1/4 mile drivers.The pistons fit so tight that they can not get rid of the heat that is in them from the extented wot.and they start rubbing the cyl walls and generating MORE heat then go into melt down.[it happened to me]Not caused by the chip but by the tolerance.But back to the issue here.Everyone want stronger rods in the motor but how many would pay an extra 8 to 900 bucks on the price tag for that!I know many say they would but really how many would?I went thru that already with the underdrive pulleys I made!everyone wanted them but after I committed to making them and the $ I have sold maybe 15 sets!So I side with ford.If you want to get an aggressive chip with more boost than stock plan on buying better rods in with the deal or drive it for a while and plan on buying a new motor.The choice is yours.
I bought a new motor and spent MAJOR $ on making the rest of the truck compatable with use of the vehicle and the power levels it makes.Stan

PS thanks Tim for the comment.

 

Well, a little follow up....... I have just ordered a built block from JLP, as well as 8lb pulley, e/fan, cobra w/pump, throttle body,as well as a Nitrous Express system from a local dealer. I have sent my s/charger to be ported at Aspen. JLP will also do the tune on my delta chip, which will ensure everything is c,ompatible. Am I missing anything?
Like I said before, thanks for all your help and comments. I now know what I can and can't run. Ford made a great truck, but after my stupidity, I will build a little bit better of one

Cheers,

Michael

 

It is my understanding that Ford has never written the code for the knock sensor operation because they were unable to filter out the extraneous noise that our engines make that gives a false response.

Everything I hear about PSP indicates that they are one of the better tuners around and I am not disputing what is being said about being able to "turn it on" but if what I have heard is correct, there is nothing to turn on.

Can somebody (Sal) expand on this?

 

Sal did one of his knock sensor programs for me earlier this year. It did work. I didn't think I was supposed to say anything, but since the cat is out of the bag...

 

You took the words "write" out of my mouth !

 

Blew mine in August and just got it back today. Total price including towing, parts and labor Approx $9000

New Block
Eagle Rods w/ARP Bolts
JE 17cc Pistons
Mod Max 1mm over valves and springs w/titanium retainers
Heads Ported
ARP Stud Kit
High Volume FMS Oil Pump
255lph Fuel Pumps
JBA Stainless 1 5/8 Cat 4ward Headers
4 Program PSP Chip (street, race, 75hp No2, 125hp No2)

Engine Removed
Engine Torn Down
Crank repaired and trued
Balanced
Assembled
Heads repaired and ported and valve job with new valves and springs
Engine Installed
Fuel Pumps Installed
Starter Replaced (failed after starting 2 times)

I have put 100 miles on it today picking it up and yes it feels strong. I have not run it with No2 yet. Of course I have not driven it in 5 months so the seats of the pants may be suspect.

 

with the built block why didn't you get the #2 upper pulley

and why wouldn't you run a 10 in the bottom

 

quickcanuck


couple of questions
before you blew the rod who were you working thru as for buying parts and install.


and now with the new motor are you doing it yourself or do you have a local shop doing the pulling and install.

must dealers don't have the knowlodge to put this stuff together,
so they tend to be overpriced,
from your posts its seems you're doing all the leg work.

were you racing when you blew her
or was it from the 100 shot you had installed