06 KR F150 Rattling Doors
#1
06 KR F150 Rattling Doors
So the front drivers door and rear passenger doors are making noises that are about to drive me nuts! I replaced the bump stops on all 4 doors with the longer one used on the front doors and they still rattle & clunk! Can the latch assemblys or strike jambs be adjusted to take up slack in the latch mechanism? I'm about at the end of my rope with this crap , going down a slightly ruff road this truck sounds like a 30yr old beater! The truck only has 49,000 miles on it and sounds more like 149,000.
PLEASE
~Kenny
PLEASE
~Kenny
#2
Don't feel bad. My 2011 is going back to the dealer for squeeks and rattles for the 3rd time on monday. It only has 1,800 miles on it. Typical Ford bs and them being cheap. The damn driver seat squeeks everytime you hit a bump. It's metal to metal sound and drives me nuts. If they don't replace the seat I'm going to have someone's job. I plan on sending a letter and email to the CEO and ask him why a company I own 1,200 shares in refuses to fix things properly and stand behind their warranty.
#3
I hear, I would really be pissed if it was on a brand new truck and the dealer would get real tired of seeing me. I don't know what else to do to tighten these doors up to stop the clunking & chirping noise, it's so bad it sounds like one of the doors isn't closed all the way and on slightly ruff roads it sounds like a bird is in the cab chirping.
#4
#5
Lift on the bottom of the door and check for sag.
Also check if the striker bolt has a plastic sheath around it and if it's still in good shape. If it's gone or wore badly, replace it.
O'riley has them for $8 bucks
It takes a #50 torks socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...?keyword=38448
If you end up replacing the striker bolt/s, mark the old ones before you remove them, as they are adjustable. That gives you a good idea on where the new ones should be.
Also check if the striker bolt has a plastic sheath around it and if it's still in good shape. If it's gone or wore badly, replace it.
O'riley has them for $8 bucks
It takes a #50 torks socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...?keyword=38448
If you end up replacing the striker bolt/s, mark the old ones before you remove them, as they are adjustable. That gives you a good idea on where the new ones should be.
Last edited by SETCHAN; 01-02-2012 at 10:07 AM.
#6
I was under the impression it's just from the flex of the frame. I had an abused '86 mustang that had all sorts of door issues until I put subframe connectors on it. Obviously a different problem, but similar IMHO. Even with a full box frame there's going to be some flex in it as the truck bounces down a bumpy road.
#7
Not sure about other years but the 06 doesn't use a striker bolt with the nylon sleeve, complete different latch setup.
Lift on the bottom of the door and check for sag.
Also check if the striker bolt has a plastic sheath around it and if it's still in good shape. If it's gone or wore badly, replace it.
O'riley has them for $8 bucks
It takes a #50 torks socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...?keyword=38448
If you end up replacing the striker bolt/s, mark the old ones before you remove them, as they are adjustable. That gives you a good idea on where the new ones should be.
Also check if the striker bolt has a plastic sheath around it and if it's still in good shape. If it's gone or wore badly, replace it.
O'riley has them for $8 bucks
It takes a #50 torks socket
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...?keyword=38448
If you end up replacing the striker bolt/s, mark the old ones before you remove them, as they are adjustable. That gives you a good idea on where the new ones should be.
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#8
#9
So the front drivers door and rear passenger doors are making noises that are about to drive me nuts! I replaced the bump stops on all 4 doors with the longer one used on the front doors and they still rattle & clunk! Can the latch assemblys or strike jambs be adjusted to take up slack in the latch mechanism? I'm about at the end of my rope with this crap , going down a slightly ruff road this truck sounds like a 30yr old beater! The truck only has 49,000 miles on it and sounds more like 149,000.
PLEASE
~Kenny
PLEASE
~Kenny
#10
#11
#13
I replaced all the bump stops and it still does it. Sounds more like something inside the door when going over bumps. I saw where someone mentioned about a cable in the doors ratting and having to tie wrap them, wondering if anyone had any pics of the cables & where they are tie wraping them to. I can close the driver front door outside the truck and hear the same rattle it makes when hitting bumps in the road.
Last edited by daparrothead; 03-01-2015 at 03:09 PM.
#14
Getting in to that door is pretty simple, to my recollection. I believe there was a screw around the inner handle as well as a couple down on the bottom of the door panel. I also seem to remember that the control panel for the window has to pop off and unplug too.
That should gain nearly full access to the 'inderds' of the door.... maybe you can pin it down there?
That should gain nearly full access to the 'inderds' of the door.... maybe you can pin it down there?
#15
Getting in to that door is pretty simple, to my recollection. I believe there was a screw around the inner handle as well as a couple down on the bottom of the door panel. I also seem to remember that the control panel for the window has to pop off and unplug too.
That should gain nearly full access to the 'inderds' of the door.... maybe you can pin it down there?
That should gain nearly full access to the 'inderds' of the door.... maybe you can pin it down there?
A trim tool will help in prying the skin away from the door. I think I used a paint scraping blade (carefully).
I've been following this thread with interest, because I have no rattles/thunks whatsoever in my doors. My truck now has 92,000 miles on it too, and has been on several 4WD roads on our camping trips.
- Jack