little pricey for my blood as well

 

Alex,

Here's a question for you. With the size of the heat sink on the back of those bad boys, I've got to believe that the heat comes from resistance. Increased resistance usually means higher amperage. So are the high powered LED's now drawing as much current as conventional incandescent bulbs? If so, aren't we getting right back to the original problem - too many amps for the system to handle?

Tom

 

Not quite

While electricity passing through a medium is going to encounter resistance (and therefore heat) the heat from an LED is totally different. Without getting into the specifics, higher-powered LEDs simply put out A LOT of heat.

V-LEDs claims 3x 3W Rebels. I know a single 630nm (red) Rebel at 700mAh (its full power capacity) will put out anywhere between 60-105lm. While thats around 8-9 watts for a single die, the junction temp of that die on the board will be around 275*F. At full power, that single die requires a heatsink of approximately 25mm x 15mm.

Lets say we drop the wattage to 3, that would drop the lumen output to about 20-35lm, and maybe the junction temp of a single die to about 180*F. Now lets put three together. Thats 60-200lm (being liberal here), but the heatsink requirements are going to be enormous of 180*F from three dies being so close together. So I can only conclude that either that heatsink is WAYY to small (which will leave you with a dead LED in a matter of months), or V-LEDs is lying on that lumen output.

Answering your question about amperage draw, its just a matter of math. They claim 3x 3W LEDs, so that 9 watts, and the equation for amperage is I=P/V, so I = 9/12 which is 0.75 amperes. Compared to a 3157 bulb which is 27W means they draw about 2 amps, so they are still more efficient in terms of electricity being transformed into light, but whether or not that is hitting your reflector and has coverage is another equation. Even though it MAY have more lumens at the die, a general PnP LED will not have the candlepower of a stock incandescent bulb.

 

Thanks Alex! As usual, a good explanation.

 

The SB's came in....



Here's the resistors.....



Jeez those resistors are pretty solid and heavyweight......

 

They do have the ability to be focused in the housing.....

 

Let us know how you put the various components on the unit to fit and hold in the housings......I never saw such a cobbled up mess to put together for something this expensive. Thanks 88

 

I sold that set to another member....so its not going on my truck cause I don't have one anymore.....looking for one though...

At least VLEDs is making them PnP.....instead of trash+hack or scotch locks.....so I give them credit for that at least.....

 

I like that these can be used as daytime running lights, then to dimming 50% when you turn your headlights on.

Do the older type SB's with all the little L.E.D's dim when headlights go on?

 

Want to see the light ouput of these. I may or may not purchase. Also do these resistors it comes with flash like oem halogens? Or is there still the hyper flash?

 

IDK.....tg150 will find out for us.....

 

I already have full LEDs all the way around the truck (including switchbacks up front)..I dont see the huge advantage of switching to these. All of mine are from VLED as well.

 

BUMP. Interested in doing this to my headlights so I can delete the orange look. Probably will do to my tail lights as well so I can night shade them and still be visible.

 

I would not do that, even without niteshades

 

For the front turn signals I would probably do these in the 3157 amber..... http://autolumination.com/titaniumseries.htm

The bulbs will get rid of the amber "egg yolk" look during the daytime and when the truck is off but maintains the amber when on or signal is used......