^True story
rusty/seized bolts are killing me! I've already became well acquainted with my grinder and torch

 

got the rear end back and the shop couldn't do anything with it, they did say i could torch it out somehow, but they weren't going to do it. so now i'm on the look for another 10 bolt or possible 12 bolt.



ran the hardlines and have them mounted up.....and so it continues

 

 

You could have a custom made ford 9 inch done up for about a grand for the housing. If you got everything including rear disc that can all be had for a bit lless then 3 grand. Thats what my car has. All new custom made 9 inch with disc brakes.

 

that is an option too, just trying to stick to its roots if i can though

 

I would just remove the busted extractor, easy enough to do. Then purchase the exact size needed on ebay. Make absolutely sure it's HSS labeled and that you use the largest HSS drill w/cobalt or better. That one looks easy to extract IMO. I bet the correct left hander would remove it without a problem. -Once you remove the broken extractor. All you do is shatter that a little more, then blow it out w/compressed air. You can do it.

 

how do you get the extractor out? it's cross threaded and only about 1" of it is in the broken bolt. it's deep in the bolt hole too, no way to get it out really, especially with the caps still on. i've already taken it to one of the better rear end shops around houston and they can't even get it to do anything

 

No no, - don't take to a rear end shop. Take it to a machine shop if anywhere, they'll tell yuh or do it for yuh real quick.

Like I said, you shatter the extractor w/tool or forged steel. That's the easier part. Just take it to the right place.

 

Yeah, I use an old push rod to shatter those cheap extractors. The correct drill for that is pricey. When it come to extractors and drills, you never purchase a kit sold over the counter. You look for Brubaker or Viking (CNC) and collect one at a time, $$$. You would be amazed what the correct chunk of forged metal will do lol.

Anyway, maybe the shop you find will take you back with and show you the high tech way to clean that hole out lol. Or, perhaps, they'll chuck that thing up in the lathe and use HSS cobalt stub drill to cut thru all that like butter, then extract whats left.

Tell them you want to watch lol.

 

Hahaha, I'll have to call some of the machine shops to see what they can do. One place I was directed to, they have some drill bit that disintegrates bolts and however the threads remain intact. However they said it's a 12" drill bit and it needs that much room to get to it. with the caps in the way, the drill can only get in it at a slight angle, which is the hardest part of this whole predicament. If it was a straight shot, it would be a million times easier.

 

That might have been a solid carbide bit. Yea, I seen that it isn't a straight shot. They'll use an offset or right angle/narrow chuck. Not sure, they have so many attachments and methods. It's ever changing. A good Machine shop, = Tooling is a big part of their specialty.

Personally, I'd bust that extractor out myself. I mean, if there's a small piece you can't quite get to, Dremel has a small 1/8" carbide burr that will take the rest out. IF it will reach. I think they're about an inch and a quarter or inch and half long. They sell it at the big box stores, like Home Depot. It's about 10 bucks. You can get 1/4 burrs as well. I get my stuff from machinist auctions on that eBay site. Or out of business liquidations in my area. That's where the eBay sellers get this stuff. Only way I can afford that high dollar crap lol.

 

Oh awesome, I forgot I have my dremel with some burr attachments. I'll have to try that and if that doesn't work I'll find a machine shop and see what they can do for me.
Thanks for the great suggestions sir!

 

No problem. First, just take a steel awl, one that will accept a little hammer action and line it up right on that extractor. A couple good taps and you'll shatter that extractor and it might even fall right out. I would dremel anything you can't get by shattering. The cheaper extractors are like glass, very brittle. The HSS extractors will shatter as well, it just takes a little more effort.

With the burr, you could dig a notch in the extractor, that your steel awl will sit into it. That will keep it in position if necessary. You don't need to hit that hard either. Once the extractor is out, I'd use a left hand drill bit if you have that option. You need to break the corrosion, if you want to save the threads. The only way to do that is with heat. With you heating the outside and the drill bit heating the inside, you may be able to back that broken piece out. It only requires a little luck, -not much, if you can do it that way.

 

I'm not sure how much of the extractor is broke off in the hole ? Well, if the busted bolt isn't much deeper, you could use a Mig welder to extract.

You use a threaded rod coupling, oversized, grind down the outer ridges to where you can insert in the hole. Crank the mig up for 3/16 or 1/4". Position the torch inside the hole, pull the trigger and feed for 2 seconds at a time. Hit both sides, count out two seconds, you need a full two seconds for a good tack. You'll need to pre-heat the outside before hand and get on that coupling right after tack while the broken bolt is still retaining some heat. Apply more heat to the outer and hit it with the Mig again, tacking the opposite sides. That will add more heat and secure coupling on 4 sides.

It looks shallow enough from here. The mig will still tack it well from a little distance. You could even leave the extractor in there if there's enough room to weld to the broken bolt.

Just something else to think about.

 

I'm going to try the previous attempt method you suggested, I don't have a mig, so that will be a last resort. I don't think I have any awl's though, but I do have some burr bits.