ANy Nitro Rc Car owners around?
#31
01-28-2011, 04:53 PM
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#32
01-28-2011, 08:18 PM
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#33
01-28-2011, 08:40 PM
#34
01-29-2011, 09:15 AM
I believe it is to keep the engine libricated between runs. I thought most fuels you can get today have additives in them so you done neccessarily need after run oil. Could be wrong though. I have never used after run oil. My trucks seem to run fine. Of course I dont run them a whole bunch. No tracks or competitions or anything. Just some casual bashing in parks or around the house.
Last edited by BeauFlex; 01-29-2011 at 09:18 AM.
#35
01-29-2011, 10:42 AM
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Looking at getting one of these nifty little nitro trucks. Just seeing if anyone here owns one. Im looking at this truck 55-60 mph with remote start 
http://www.rctoyhouse.com/Remote_Sta...t-b-remote.htm
http://www.rctoyhouse.com/Remote_Sta...t-b-remote.htm
In my opinion having raced these since I was a kid, get a good quality one. I always had electric ones that went stupid fast, from Team Losi. If you never had one before, I wouldn't jump right to nitro anyways, there's a lot to know about them and especially upkeep. Get a copy of Radio Control Car Action and that'll give you a good idea. A good nitro setup should run you well over $500 to start for quality stuff. After that it's a friggin riot. My electric Losi XXXT runs probably 35-40 mph and is bordering on uncontrollable, fun to watch!
#36
01-29-2011, 01:22 PM
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After run oil is just that - an oil you put in the engine after you run it to help prevent rust. It's a preventative maintenance step.
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that judging by the price of the kit, you're probably not going to get a high quality fuel with your starter kit. As stated, always get a high quality fuel.
Now, NOT using the after run oil right off the bat won't hurt the engine, but later on down the line when it gets shelved (as most RC owners can attest to), whether it's due to broken parts, bored with it, no time, etc.., it will help you further on down the line. As I said, it's a preventative maintenance procedure. Think of it as the engine in your 1:1 truck, you do what needs to be done to it to further it's lifespan. It's always good to get into a routine from the start and regret not doing it later.
Also be sure to take care of that air filter and keep it as clean as possible.
Just some advice.....may not be the best, so take some time and do plenty of research.
Nitro fuel is made up of three main components...
Nitromethane
Methanol
Oil
The nitromethane portion of rc car nitro fuel is actually not overly hygroscopic, which is the term for a subsctance that readily attracts and retains water. The hygroscopic portion of nitro fuel is the methanol rather than the nitro. Rust in nitro engines is caused by water moisture drawn in from the air by the hygroscopic methanol in the fuel and accelerated by any residual acids left in the engine. Cheaper methanol has residual acids in its natural state that greatly enhance rust. Good quality fuels use good high grade methanol with very low acid contents.
The second source of residual acids is from partially burned fuel. This is the most common source of the acids which together with the moisture can cause the crankshaft and bearings to rust.
Most people think you should run an engine dry after you run it but I strongly advocate against this for the reason mentioned above. It leaves more half-burned fuel in the engine than otherwise. Also running the engine bone dry puts undue stress on the engine parts up until it runs completely out and is just as bad as running the engine too lean. And if you use a good quality fuel with the lubrication properties of a good oil package, then you will actually experience less rust than if you burned all of the fuel out and let the engine sit.
Nitromethane
Methanol
Oil
The nitromethane portion of rc car nitro fuel is actually not overly hygroscopic, which is the term for a subsctance that readily attracts and retains water. The hygroscopic portion of nitro fuel is the methanol rather than the nitro. Rust in nitro engines is caused by water moisture drawn in from the air by the hygroscopic methanol in the fuel and accelerated by any residual acids left in the engine. Cheaper methanol has residual acids in its natural state that greatly enhance rust. Good quality fuels use good high grade methanol with very low acid contents.
The second source of residual acids is from partially burned fuel. This is the most common source of the acids which together with the moisture can cause the crankshaft and bearings to rust.
Most people think you should run an engine dry after you run it but I strongly advocate against this for the reason mentioned above. It leaves more half-burned fuel in the engine than otherwise. Also running the engine bone dry puts undue stress on the engine parts up until it runs completely out and is just as bad as running the engine too lean. And if you use a good quality fuel with the lubrication properties of a good oil package, then you will actually experience less rust than if you burned all of the fuel out and let the engine sit.
Now, NOT using the after run oil right off the bat won't hurt the engine, but later on down the line when it gets shelved (as most RC owners can attest to), whether it's due to broken parts, bored with it, no time, etc.., it will help you further on down the line. As I said, it's a preventative maintenance procedure. Think of it as the engine in your 1:1 truck, you do what needs to be done to it to further it's lifespan. It's always good to get into a routine from the start and regret not doing it later.
Also be sure to take care of that air filter and keep it as clean as possible.
Just some advice.....may not be the best, so take some time and do plenty of research.
#38
01-29-2011, 04:34 PM
Thanks for the info, not sure what fuel is coming with it but i know its 20percent. I just went to the hobby store and picked up a quart of Traxxas 20percent topfuel power plus. Im guessing this should be some good stuff.
#39
01-29-2011, 06:57 PM
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The Traxxas fuel is a mid-line fuel..It's probably good for all your needs, and it contains a good oil package. Personally I liked Monster by Trinity, but we always ran Maxxy's,, becausethey sponsored us! Byron's is good too.. I believe it's also a good Air fuel, so you may be familiar with it.
After run oil is mainly for storage of over a week or so. It prevents the piston from sticking, prevents the castor residue from mucking the ports on the sleeve ,and mainly rust prevention.
After run oil is mainly for storage of over a week or so. It prevents the piston from sticking, prevents the castor residue from mucking the ports on the sleeve ,and mainly rust prevention.
Last edited by SFM; 01-29-2011 at 06:59 PM.
#40
01-29-2011, 07:12 PM
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#41
01-31-2011, 05:54 PM
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Had that happen to me about 10yrs ago on an FM system. Was making a pass in my nitro funny car when a kid on the same freq turned on his radio while I was about 130ft into the 132ft run. The system glitched and stuck at WOT. Found my car mangled roughly 1100 feet from the finish line. First part I bought in the rebuilding process was a fail safe. :o Since I bought that, whenever it would glitch, it would just return the throttle servo to my preset position.
The worst thing about ordering fuel online is having to wait on the ground shipping.
#42
01-31-2011, 07:35 PM
Had that happen to me about 10yrs ago on an FM system. Was making a pass in my nitro funny car when a kid on the same freq turned on his radio while I was about 130ft into the 132ft run. The system glitched and stuck at WOT. Found my car mangled roughly 1100 feet from the finish line. First part I bought in the rebuilding process was a fail safe. :o Since I bought that, whenever it would glitch, it would just return the throttle servo to my preset position.
The worst thing about ordering fuel online is having to wait on the ground shipping.
The worst thing about ordering fuel online is having to wait on the ground shipping.
Kingranchcoy
If you go to a track somewhere, be sure to be familiar with procedures there. You don't want to make an enemy the first time out
I always used WD40 for after run oil. Just open the throttle, spray a couple of second and turn the crank a few times. But if the engine is hot be carefull, an engine will start on WD40
#43
01-31-2011, 08:58 PM
, the day we are suppose to have 5inches of snow on the ground 
bout my luck
#44
02-02-2011, 04:32 PM
Hey guys just got the buggy. Have a question how long do i charge the glowplug? Its a 2100mah 1.2 volt. The owner manual doesnt say anything about charging it. Im thinking about 3 hours?It is a 2.4ghz remote so its not a AM remote which is a good thing i guess.
Here she is
Here she is
Last edited by KingRanchCoy; 02-02-2011 at 04:51 PM.