Block is cast differently. The webbing on the exterior side of the block doesn't exist on a RRS engine.
Cam shaft reluctor rings are different
Oil pan
Valve covers
Oil cooler (I think)
Water pump
Coolant hoses/coolant network
Cooling fan
Thermostat
Intake manifold
High pressure fuel pumps
High pressure fuel lines


Not offended, you came in here for help, and you got it. What you choose to do with it is your own time/money

 

I could be wrong on the block casting.


I am 100% sure the camshaft reluctors are different. It will effect timing, and probably wont run at all.


Yesterday I spoke with my cousin on it. He's a LR Master for 15 years. I worked with him for almost 4 years 2009-2013. He thinks the blocks are different too.

But for the life of me I keep picturing the 03-05 "BMW" Range Rover front differential that physically mounts to the block. And I can't remember if the newer "Ford/Jag" 5.0L are the same front differential setups.

 

Hello

It's been quite a while since I’ve been on here but I wanted to give an update on my project in the however unlikely case it may help someone else.

I just finished installing a 5.0L non-supercharged engine out of a 2012 Range Rover Sport in my 2011 full size Range Rover HSE. I am here to tell everyone that these engine blocks are IDENTICAL. They are completely 100% interchangeable. In fact every single piece of the complete engine assembly is identical except for the oil pan. The only other differences are 2 coolant hoses and the fuel lines which is not an issue if you’re swapping engines since you already have the right stuff on your current vehicle.

Every sensor lines up, all wires are the same, mounts are identical, intake.. same. Hell, even the exhaust manifolds are an exact match!

I also figured out the reason the part numbers between blocks are different, which was a major concern for me at the time because I figure they had to be different if they have different part numbers. The reason is Land Rover won’t sell a block without a pan and since the pans are different the part numbers are different. Makes perfect sense and is borne out by the fact that every single thing from my full size HSE bolts directly to the supposed “Sport” block.

With this knowledge I have to assume the LR4 5.0 is the same too. As I thought initially, there’s no way Land Rover cast 2 (or more) 5.0 blocks in the same year and this certainly seems to be the case.

Hope this helps dispel some of the myths out there and helps someone save a crap-ton of money! (Full sized HSE engines go for around $13,000. Sport and LR4’s for around $8,000)

 

Hi dnsta and Patman. I just purchased a really clean 2011 RRS with 77k miles for $7200. It's got the 5.0 N/A engine that was overheated due to a coolant hose failure under the intake. I was about to start pulling it apart tomorrow to remove the engine and having it machined until I read this thread. Dnsta did you end up pulling the engine from the bay or did you have to remove the majority of the front end similar to Patman? I swapped an engine into my 2006 LR3 and it was straight forward - went in and out through the engine bay with the hood off. Is it for sure much more difficult to swap an engine on a RRS? Do you have any advice on purchasing a used engine vs rebuild? I'm also considering having a shop do the work as well if it really is as bad as it sounds. I would appreciate any advice.

Thank you,
Matt

 

Hi Matt

I'm not sure I can help you too much. If you read carefully you’ll see I was working on a full sized HSE and not a sport. The main difference being the HSE has a full ladder frame and the sport does not. I had to take the entire front clip off to get mine out but if you’ve got the room to maneuver it’s really not that bad. The entire drivetrain comes out together and every wire stays in bay, at least on the HSE. Remember, sport and LR4 blocks should be identical. The only difference for the HSE was the pan.

In regards to engines, grab a used one. I highly doubt you’ll find a rebuilt one and the cost to have it done is, shall we say, prohibitive. Just make sure you get a warranty with it. I got a 1 year unlimited mileage on mine and haven’t had any problems yet. Do look very closely at the timing chain tensioners. They’re a known issue with the 5.0 and sound like rod knock when they start to go. Very scary!

 

Matt it depends on how hot the engine got. It is possible to overheat it without total meltdown and warping the heads.

Have you done a compression test?
Cooling system pressure test?
How does the oil look? Feel? Smell?

 

Patman, are you still around? I was hoping you may be able to tell me how you managed to get the flex plate bolts out.......and back in again? I am at this point.

 

I'm still here

Bolts that go through the flex plate into the torque converter go front to back, theres a window on the engine bell housing area on the driver's side. I believe front differential has to come out before you can access that

 

Thanks, I found the hole and the bolts but aligning them putting them back in must be a real bitch. Have not removed them yet. With the passage of time would you still do it the same or would you pull the body? Have you done any more since?

 

Havent done any since. I'd think I'd probably still come out the front.

You can also use the inspection hole on the bottom of transmission bell housing to rotate the torque convertor to get the bolt holes to line up

 

Tried again this morning, can't even get one out. I don't think removing the front diff will help as the block sticks out above it. I guess I don't have the right tools although I can't think what would help except a magic ratchet. Beginning to think removing the body may be easier in the long run. Thanks for your time.

P.S. is it bad that I found pieces of piston and both circlips in the cat?