we had a second '10 RRSport that needed an engine for a different reason, and the tech working on it did it "the right way"

 

Is that faster than how you did it?

 

yes but i took off more then i needed since i wasnt sure how much was gonna need to come out

 

I always find the body-off shots interesting to look at. Thanks for posting ...

 

Hi Patman Thanks for the detailed Pictures of the front end removal. I just lost a Con Rod on Number 4 Cylinder on my HSE 4.4 M62 Not bad I had 192K miles on her. Now I have a holed Block and the best bet is replace the motor. Do I need to drop the Transmission,exhaust system etc prior to being able to extract the Engine? I am a member of a Bunch of RR forums and have not seen anything of any help your Post is very detailed.

Thanks

 

The simple fact that it is a Range Rover makes that statement even more true. God those things are hunks of crap.


You have to buy chunky peanut butter for that not the creamy.

 

Holy.....talk about making sure you keep your parts organized dam...aren't those things owned by some Indian company now?

 

An old thread revived. Interesting non-the-less. The difference in vehicles between when I turned wrenches, and today. I remember griping because there were two extra lines to mess with just for that fancy new slush box transmission! Back in the day, I remember doing TWO engine removals, replacing piston rings, and having them both done and delivered in 8 hours! Those days are gone!

I commend you for the extra effort of bagging and marking bolts and the like. A very professional job!

 

Hey, I know that garage

Yeah Flagship, Patrick helped me go from column to Flow Through shift on my truck, and I gotta say, the guy is a consummate professional in every sense of the words. I would hate to lose HP and certain other functions of modern engines, but that '64 Chevy pickup my friend Robert had in his yard with about 8 wires coming off the block? Infinitely easier than working on our motors.

 

03-05 you can just yank the engine straight out, you'll need to disconnect and support the front of the transmission, but that one is much simpler to work on than the new sport


And thanks guys, the Land Rover dealership wasnt treating me right so they lost a good tech a few weeks ago. And yes Jaguar/Land Rover has been owned by Tata motors for 4 years

 

Well in defense of Land Rover, this particular vehicle is a pre-production vehicle. It was made in mid 09 IIRC. The block casting error was fixed very quickly in the production line. Only a few weeks of production and they had it fixed. Can't say that about any known problem from Ford.....

you see my other thread? They are pretty damn capable for what they are, and the luxury is bar none
https://www.f150online.com/forums/ou...ng-sunday.html

 

Hello. Sorry to bring back a old thread but I unfortunately am about to embark on the the same project that the OP did and was looking for a little more information if possible.

Specifically I was wondering if there were any specialty tools needed or the work and if anything had to be done software wise.

I've got a full compliment of Audi/Volkswagen specialty stuff like triple squares and odd sockets but nothing Range Rover/Land Rover specific. Also, with all of the work I do on Audi's there always seems to be something I need to do with VCDS (Audi software package) before new components will talk to each other. Am I looking at something like that here or is it a pretty straight forward (relatively speaking) wrench turning job?

Any and all information/feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Dean

 

It's pretty straight forward. No major special tools needed. One of the front accessory belt has a "stretch" belt. Pretty simple, it is built like most cars, just a ton of nuts and bolts

You getting a whole crate long block?

 

Thanks for the quick reply. Good to know nothing major is needed. Not familiar with a stretch belt. Does that mean there's no tensioner?

Actually I'm working on a full sized HSE and not a Sport but the principals are the same if not identical. The only issue I'm having so far is the fact that there isn't a used HSE 5.0 anywhere in the country as far as I can tell. I've got a list of 15 number I call twice a week but no go as of yet. (Been 6 months)

I'm considering looking for a Sport 5.0 as I have many reasons to believe (same heads, belts, oil filters, gaskets...) they are identical to the HSE 5.0 even though Range Rover says the blocks have different part numbers...

Thoughts?

 

They are different blocks.

The RR Sport uses an stand alone front differential.
The RR uses a front diff that bolts to the side of the block, and the RH CV axle goes through the oil pan.


Correct, stretch belt uses no tensioner, there's a special tool for install only. Removal you just cut it off (according to procedures)