Electrical- quick n easy
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Cord is appx 15' long, may be 20 so i can unplug it.
I am going to run it off a 20amp breaker, thats for a pump house wall heater that is rarely used even in the winter.
I'm just trying to get it temporary power for this next year or so until I can make more firm plans on possible shop... I have 2- 100amp breakers already for the shop if i get that chance.
I am going to run it off a 20amp breaker, thats for a pump house wall heater that is rarely used even in the winter.
I'm just trying to get it temporary power for this next year or so until I can make more firm plans on possible shop... I have 2- 100amp breakers already for the shop if i get that chance.
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NEC (NFPA-70, 2008):
240.4 Protection of Conductors
(D) Small Conductors. Unless specifically permitted in 240.4(E) or (G), the overcurrent protection shall not exceed that required by (D)(1) through (D)(7) after any correction factors for ambient temperature and number of conductors have been applied.
(1) 18 AWG Copper. 7 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 5.6 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(2) 16 AWG Copper. 10 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 8 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(3) 14 AWG Copper. 15 amperes
(4) 12 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 15 amperes
(5) 12 AWG Copper. 20 amperes
(6) 10 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 25 amperes
(7) 10 AWG Copper. 30 amperes
As posted above, you must use 2#12, #12G from the breaker to the receptacle if you're going to use a 2P-20A breaker. The receptacle must also be rated for 20A at 220V.
However, the 'cord' may be smaller (2C#14 w/G would probably work for such a short cord), but because it's a compressor motor (they typically have a very high starting kVA), I would still use 2C#12 w/G to reduce any voltage drop on start-up. Remember the voltage drop distance is calculated from the utility transformer (source) to the compressor motor...
240.4 Protection of Conductors
(D) Small Conductors. Unless specifically permitted in 240.4(E) or (G), the overcurrent protection shall not exceed that required by (D)(1) through (D)(7) after any correction factors for ambient temperature and number of conductors have been applied.
(1) 18 AWG Copper. 7 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 5.6 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(2) 16 AWG Copper. 10 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 8 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(3) 14 AWG Copper. 15 amperes
(4) 12 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 15 amperes
(5) 12 AWG Copper. 20 amperes
(6) 10 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 25 amperes
(7) 10 AWG Copper. 30 amperes
As posted above, you must use 2#12, #12G from the breaker to the receptacle if you're going to use a 2P-20A breaker. The receptacle must also be rated for 20A at 220V.
However, the 'cord' may be smaller (2C#14 w/G would probably work for such a short cord), but because it's a compressor motor (they typically have a very high starting kVA), I would still use 2C#12 w/G to reduce any voltage drop on start-up. Remember the voltage drop distance is calculated from the utility transformer (source) to the compressor motor...
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Join Date: Jun 2002
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From the motor data calculator, not for heavy service applications.
1 HP 230 V install is full load current 8 A. Minimum Copper wire size is 14 AWG ( TH or XH series wire ) to a 15 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 12 A dual element time delay fuse.
Considering the plate has a larger max AMP draw, the 1.5 HP motor on 230 V install, 10 AMP full load current, 14 AWG TH or XH series wire to a 20 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 15 A dual element time delay fuse.
Without knowing the application of the motor, the cord is already undersized. The little specs you gave on the cord, it does not sounds like TH or XH series wire.
The part that can make a difference is if the motor is used in a continual run or started with a dead load on it ( grain auger, or fluid pump ).
The dead load will increase the current inrush to the motor at start up, which could cause the breaker to run hot and over time degrade the ability for it to hold when starting up ( it will be fine for x amount of time, then start the trip the breaker every 10 start, and progressively get worse to the point it will trip every time it starts ).
Your air compressor motor does not have a load on it at start up, so the current in rush is a minor item ( that is along the lines of an AC compressor unit ). The pump house part had me question the install, and what the motor was being used for.
Is the install going to have a motor starter, or is this going to be a safety switch / flip the breaker to start the motor ?
1 HP 230 V install is full load current 8 A. Minimum Copper wire size is 14 AWG ( TH or XH series wire ) to a 15 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 12 A dual element time delay fuse.
Considering the plate has a larger max AMP draw, the 1.5 HP motor on 230 V install, 10 AMP full load current, 14 AWG TH or XH series wire to a 20 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 15 A dual element time delay fuse.
Without knowing the application of the motor, the cord is already undersized. The little specs you gave on the cord, it does not sounds like TH or XH series wire.
The part that can make a difference is if the motor is used in a continual run or started with a dead load on it ( grain auger, or fluid pump ).
The dead load will increase the current inrush to the motor at start up, which could cause the breaker to run hot and over time degrade the ability for it to hold when starting up ( it will be fine for x amount of time, then start the trip the breaker every 10 start, and progressively get worse to the point it will trip every time it starts ).
Your air compressor motor does not have a load on it at start up, so the current in rush is a minor item ( that is along the lines of an AC compressor unit ). The pump house part had me question the install, and what the motor was being used for.
Is the install going to have a motor starter, or is this going to be a safety switch / flip the breaker to start the motor ?
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