Electrical- quick n easy
Electrical- quick n easy
My dad's worried and i'm not so worried.
1 horse, 220v motor, max amp on name plate is 8.9
I feel a 3c16 cable, much like an extension cord just has a metallic shielding cover thats stiffer, will handle my little motor.
What is the max amp's for a 16ga wire?
1 horse, 220v motor, max amp on name plate is 8.9
I feel a 3c16 cable, much like an extension cord just has a metallic shielding cover thats stiffer, will handle my little motor.
What is the max amp's for a 16ga wire?
8.9 amps at 220v? youll be alright. id be more comfortable with 14 gauge though. its on its own seperate dedicated breaker?? is it a permanent type setup??
Last edited by keith97xlt; Dec 24, 2009 at 06:00 PM.
Cord is appx 15' long, may be 20 so i can unplug it.
I am going to run it off a 20amp breaker, thats for a pump house wall heater that is rarely used even in the winter.
I'm just trying to get it temporary power for this next year or so until I can make more firm plans on possible shop... I have 2- 100amp breakers already for the shop if i get that chance.
I am going to run it off a 20amp breaker, thats for a pump house wall heater that is rarely used even in the winter.
I'm just trying to get it temporary power for this next year or so until I can make more firm plans on possible shop... I have 2- 100amp breakers already for the shop if i get that chance.
if you are using a 20 amp breaker than use 12awg wire. you size the wire for the breaker. on start a motor pulls alot more than its rating, better to be safe than on fire..
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At 8.9 Amps and 220 Volts, you're pulling almost 2K Watts through the wire. Most 16 Ga chords are rated at about 10 Amps at 120 Volts I think, or, about 1200 Watts. I think you need a heavier gauge wire. I'd use 12 Ga, just like JJDH advised.
- Jack
- Jack
12 gauge, that way when you start it you arent way over the wires limit...
better to spend a little more $$ on wire then to witness a wire burn and it cant be stopped till it burns through..
better to spend a little more $$ on wire then to witness a wire burn and it cant be stopped till it burns through..
ok. I'll look around for heavier wire. the cord is rated for 300v, I understand the motor spikes on start even with capacitor start motors. its just my air compressor though.
NEC (NFPA-70, 2008):
240.4 Protection of Conductors
(D) Small Conductors. Unless specifically permitted in 240.4(E) or (G), the overcurrent protection shall not exceed that required by (D)(1) through (D)(7) after any correction factors for ambient temperature and number of conductors have been applied.
(1) 18 AWG Copper. 7 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 5.6 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(2) 16 AWG Copper. 10 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 8 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(3) 14 AWG Copper. 15 amperes
(4) 12 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 15 amperes
(5) 12 AWG Copper. 20 amperes
(6) 10 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 25 amperes
(7) 10 AWG Copper. 30 amperes
As posted above, you must use 2#12, #12G from the breaker to the receptacle if you're going to use a 2P-20A breaker. The receptacle must also be rated for 20A at 220V.
However, the 'cord' may be smaller (2C#14 w/G would probably work for such a short cord), but because it's a compressor motor (they typically have a very high starting kVA), I would still use 2C#12 w/G to reduce any voltage drop on start-up. Remember the voltage drop distance is calculated from the utility transformer (source) to the compressor motor...
240.4 Protection of Conductors
(D) Small Conductors. Unless specifically permitted in 240.4(E) or (G), the overcurrent protection shall not exceed that required by (D)(1) through (D)(7) after any correction factors for ambient temperature and number of conductors have been applied.
(1) 18 AWG Copper. 7 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 5.6 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 18 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(2) 16 AWG Copper. 10 amperes, provided all the following conditions are met:
(1) Continuous loads do not exceed 8 amperes.
(2) Overcurrent protection is provided by one of the following:
a. Branch-circuit-rated circuit breakers listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
b. Branch-circuit-rated fuses listed and marked for use with 16 AWG copper wire
c. Class CC, Class J, or Class T fuses
(3) 14 AWG Copper. 15 amperes
(4) 12 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 15 amperes
(5) 12 AWG Copper. 20 amperes
(6) 10 AWG Aluminum and Copper-Clad Aluminum. 25 amperes
(7) 10 AWG Copper. 30 amperes
As posted above, you must use 2#12, #12G from the breaker to the receptacle if you're going to use a 2P-20A breaker. The receptacle must also be rated for 20A at 220V.
However, the 'cord' may be smaller (2C#14 w/G would probably work for such a short cord), but because it's a compressor motor (they typically have a very high starting kVA), I would still use 2C#12 w/G to reduce any voltage drop on start-up. Remember the voltage drop distance is calculated from the utility transformer (source) to the compressor motor...
From the motor data calculator, not for heavy service applications.
1 HP 230 V install is full load current 8 A. Minimum Copper wire size is 14 AWG ( TH or XH series wire ) to a 15 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 12 A dual element time delay fuse.
Considering the plate has a larger max AMP draw, the 1.5 HP motor on 230 V install, 10 AMP full load current, 14 AWG TH or XH series wire to a 20 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 15 A dual element time delay fuse.
Without knowing the application of the motor, the cord is already undersized. The little specs you gave on the cord, it does not sounds like TH or XH series wire.
The part that can make a difference is if the motor is used in a continual run or started with a dead load on it ( grain auger, or fluid pump ).
The dead load will increase the current inrush to the motor at start up, which could cause the breaker to run hot and over time degrade the ability for it to hold when starting up ( it will be fine for x amount of time, then start the trip the breaker every 10 start, and progressively get worse to the point it will trip every time it starts ).
Your air compressor motor does not have a load on it at start up, so the current in rush is a minor item ( that is along the lines of an AC compressor unit ). The pump house part had me question the install, and what the motor was being used for.
Is the install going to have a motor starter, or is this going to be a safety switch / flip the breaker to start the motor ?
1 HP 230 V install is full load current 8 A. Minimum Copper wire size is 14 AWG ( TH or XH series wire ) to a 15 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 12 A dual element time delay fuse.
Considering the plate has a larger max AMP draw, the 1.5 HP motor on 230 V install, 10 AMP full load current, 14 AWG TH or XH series wire to a 20 A thermal - magnetic type breaker or to a 15 A dual element time delay fuse.
Without knowing the application of the motor, the cord is already undersized. The little specs you gave on the cord, it does not sounds like TH or XH series wire.
The part that can make a difference is if the motor is used in a continual run or started with a dead load on it ( grain auger, or fluid pump ).
The dead load will increase the current inrush to the motor at start up, which could cause the breaker to run hot and over time degrade the ability for it to hold when starting up ( it will be fine for x amount of time, then start the trip the breaker every 10 start, and progressively get worse to the point it will trip every time it starts ).
Your air compressor motor does not have a load on it at start up, so the current in rush is a minor item ( that is along the lines of an AC compressor unit ). The pump house part had me question the install, and what the motor was being used for.
Is the install going to have a motor starter, or is this going to be a safety switch / flip the breaker to start the motor ?
Exactly. If you use 16 gauge the wire could start a fire before the breaker trips.








