for those who have removed exhaust manifolds
#1
for those who have removed exhaust manifolds
im trying to get my stock headers off to put my dynatechs on but how in the H did you guys get the drivers side lower nut off, the one furest toward the front bumper? that is the last one i have left and i cannot seem to fit anything down there to take the nut off
any help?
any help?
#4
sorry i should have stated i have not broken any off and im not trying to get any broken ones out and i have not used any penetrating oil at all.
since it is only an 08 and i dont live in the rust belt i dont have any rust
i meant that i just cant get a socket or anything down there to get that one. i am trying to get it from the back of the engine because the only way to get it out from the front would be to take a pulley and some coolant hoses off and i do not want to do that.
since it is only an 08 and i dont live in the rust belt i dont have any rust
i meant that i just cant get a socket or anything down there to get that one. i am trying to get it from the back of the engine because the only way to get it out from the front would be to take a pulley and some coolant hoses off and i do not want to do that.
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#9
When i did mine, i cam in from the bottom to break it loose, using a socket and a three inch extension, then a swivel joint, and then a really long extension again. It was a pain trying to get it onto the nut, but with some deep breaths and soothing thoughts it isn't so bad. After I broke it loose I come down from the top with a 1/4 inch ratchet and deep well to get it the rest of the way off. That is was time consuming as I could only get a couple clicks a time out of it.
For installation i did just the opposite. I also used the supplied bolts. They have it set up so you "hang" your headers on the two lower outside bolts for instillation. Make sure you have these bots threaded in as far as you can while still being able to hang the headers on them. I failed on the driver side and it took for ever to tighten that bolt two clicks at a time!
Hope this helps
For installation i did just the opposite. I also used the supplied bolts. They have it set up so you "hang" your headers on the two lower outside bolts for instillation. Make sure you have these bots threaded in as far as you can while still being able to hang the headers on them. I failed on the driver side and it took for ever to tighten that bolt two clicks at a time!
Hope this helps
#10
#12
go in from the wheel well, you may have to take a wheel off. It's a pain but definitely doable.
Also even though you may not be able to see it from the bottom doesn't mean you can't reach it half *** with a wrench, ratchet wrench, or even a small ratchet. When doing jobs like this you have to get creative
Also try to do the passenger side without removing the starter because it is a lot harder to replace it afterwards especially that top bolt on it. If you have to remove it by all means remove it but it will be a fight to reinstall it.
You need to have patients. If you get frustrated and want to wreck something like myself you need to take a break. Mine took me 4 days lol.
Also even though you may not be able to see it from the bottom doesn't mean you can't reach it half *** with a wrench, ratchet wrench, or even a small ratchet. When doing jobs like this you have to get creative
Also try to do the passenger side without removing the starter because it is a lot harder to replace it afterwards especially that top bolt on it. If you have to remove it by all means remove it but it will be a fight to reinstall it.
You need to have patients. If you get frustrated and want to wreck something like myself you need to take a break. Mine took me 4 days lol.
#13
#14
Mine is 4WD, Let me run outside and try to take a pic of where I went up through. It was a very small opening, that is why I needed the 3" extension between the socket and the swivel.
You do not need to jack the engine up, or lower it as was mentioned. I took my skid plates off, the trans crossmember off, and removed the starter. That is all.
Replacing the starter kinda blows. The hardest part is blindly finding the hole and getting the bolt started. After that I used an extension that brought the ratched back far enough to clear the started and came up from the bottom and just kinda "felt" for the bolt.
My biggest unseem problem was plugging the O2 extension into the front factory harness on the passenger side. I waited till the end to do that, but if I had to do it over I would do that before installing the headers.
Take your time and stay relaxed. It toom me a sunday and 2 nights to do mine (a bit over 20 hours total). But that was using the most basic of hand tools and it was cold and raining durring two of those nights. I did go buy a swivel head ratchet for installing the new bolts, and a 5mm box end wrentch for removing the studs in a few spots where a ratchet just didn't seem to fit. Well worth the cost.
You do not need to jack the engine up, or lower it as was mentioned. I took my skid plates off, the trans crossmember off, and removed the starter. That is all.
Replacing the starter kinda blows. The hardest part is blindly finding the hole and getting the bolt started. After that I used an extension that brought the ratched back far enough to clear the started and came up from the bottom and just kinda "felt" for the bolt.
My biggest unseem problem was plugging the O2 extension into the front factory harness on the passenger side. I waited till the end to do that, but if I had to do it over I would do that before installing the headers.
Take your time and stay relaxed. It toom me a sunday and 2 nights to do mine (a bit over 20 hours total). But that was using the most basic of hand tools and it was cold and raining durring two of those nights. I did go buy a swivel head ratchet for installing the new bolts, and a 5mm box end wrentch for removing the studs in a few spots where a ratchet just didn't seem to fit. Well worth the cost.
Last edited by schmack; 12-05-2009 at 03:33 PM.