Hi guys, I'm new to the forum and I'm need to help with this mod. I have a 2006 f150 SCrew XLT 2wd that originally did NOT come with fog lights. I got into a fender bender and decided to replace the bumper with ones that had fog holes. I then looked for the fog light wiring harness only to find that my truck isn't prewired with harnesses. I emailed a rep from Tasca Ford Parts and they told me some f150s from 2006 did not come prewired and that I would have to wire the fog light harness to the headlight harness myself. So, I ordered from Tasca the fog lights ( lamps, bulbs, mounting hardware, in-cab light switch & the fog light harnesses). So how do I wire the fog harnesses to the headlight harnesses? Also, what do I do from there? Help would be greatly appreciated Thanks

 

Best just to use the switch to turn on an external relay, this means wiring them with a standard auto relay



Instead of using a switch to the parking lamps ( or others ) as shown above, this is wired to the factory headlamp switch you ordered. The wire from the factory headlamp switch is the white w/ black stripe wire.



You can mount the auto relay under the hood, and power it directly from the battery. There are 2 grommets by the brake booster, that can be used for getting the wire from the switch to the relay.

 

Thanks SSCULLY, was sorta hoping to wire it so it'd look and work like factory but that might be hoping for too much. >_>;

 

The above would make it work like factory......

 

Hey SSCULLY,I have a few questions on this,I plan on doing this pretty soon,on this diagram would I use still have to use a relay?or just splice the fog positives in the headlights switch white/black wire?Also is there anything I have to add or connect to my CJB?and if so where is the CJB on 2006 year trucks,This is all new territory to me so any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks

 

You need to have a relay for the fog lamps, circuit 188 cannot take the additional load the fog lamps bulbs would need to operate.

If you installed the factory fog lamp switch, circuit 188 is all you would need to the external relay ( instead of A, B or C above ) and no changes to the CJB.
There would be an inline fuse from the relay to the battery, but that is usually included with a fog lamp set, or when you make up the fog lamp harness.

the CJB location description in the owners manual is crap, something similar to Right hand side of instrument panel. For those of use that speak English, it is in the Right hand side kick panel.

There is a thumb grove towards the front of the truck.

The "hinge" part of the cover is at the A pillar.

The location description for the Fuel Inertia switch in the owners manual is written better for locating it ( CJB and Fuel Inertia switch are next to each other in the right hand kick panel ).

 

Okay,Lets say I have the factory switch installed and the fogs installed but nothing is connected,Essentially I'm wiring everything up like in your first diagram the A,B,C one,only difference is instead of splicing into A,B,C I'll be splicing 85 from the relay into circuit 188 correct?

 

That is correct external relay terminal #85 to circuit 188 ( white w/ Black stripe wire ) on the main headlamp switch.

 

Thanks a lot SSCULLY, you really helped me understand all this, I might do a right up once I finish this mod to help others!

 

Hey, SSCULLY, I forgot to ask one more thing, what size should the fuse be for the inline fuse holder?

 

For the factory fog lamps type ( 9140 or 9145 bulbs ) 15 A.

A 15 A fuse max load would be 189W of light for both bulbs.

The load should be 80% of the fuse size ( and wire & relay size ), so that 189 W @ 80% = ~ 150 W total or 75 W bulbs on each side.

Make sure the fuse holder you are using is rated for the load, as well as the relay and wire.

Wire is one of those items that 16 AWG can handle the load, but over sizing the wire is better for resistive loads, so going 14 AWG would work better than 16 AWG in allowing the bulb to obtain maximum lumen output.

The relay, a 20 A should work fine for 9145 bulbs, but if you can find a 30A or 40A relay that would remove any possible contact issue in the relay ( spark gap when closing causing contact discoloration ).

There is a point where over sizing return is maxed out.
Going from a 40A to a 70A relay is going to show no increase.
Same for the wire, going from 14 AWG to 12 AWG might show a slight ( < 10 additional lumen ) increase, but going 14 AWG to 10 AWG is going to show the same possible increase.

 

Thanks SSCULLY, also what type of wire should it be, I see a lot of speaker wire and primary wire? Is primary wire the same as electrical wire? I found a inline fuse holder with a 30A fuse with 10awg wire, would that be okay 30/40A 5pin relay? I plan to use 10awg through out the whole install.

 

Speaker wire is not the same thing. Stick with Automotive wire, which is a 105*C rated wire.

The insulation on speaker wire is generally not oil and gas resistance, and the temp spec is not the same ( as heat increases the wire capacity changes quicker ).

10 AWG is more than enough, 14 AWG would do the trick.

The 30/40A relay is a good choice, can be a 4 pin relay.
Does not need to have the Normally closed contacts of the 5 pin.

 

Thank you so much for all the help SSCULLY!