I did the self test on my 2001 f150 screw and it gave me 2 flases as the end. Anyone know what this means?

Cruise won't engage at all. It use to, then started not to from time to time now won't engage at all.

Thanks
PB

 

Brake pedal switch is operated, shorted or it's circuit.
This won't let the cruise engage since this is one way the cruise is knocked off during normal driving with cruise engaged.

 

Is this switch located on the brake fluid resoviour where the brake fluid is? There is a wire that is part of the cruise system that plugs into it.

To me it looks like an oil sender or temp sender that operated a "dummy" light on the dash.

Or is this switch someplace else??

THANK YOU!

 

Pull the wire off the switch and try the test again. Or test it with a meter.
You should have had a dealer recall done on the brake switch, for fire hazard.
If not get it done right away or risk losing the truck to fire.

 

I did have the recall performed, this is where they put a fused wire inline right?

My Dad acutally had one that did catch fire and burned up his boat business.

Also, where is the switch exactly ?

Thanks

 

No, different. If THAT particular circuit was defective, the symptom would be a completely dead cruise system with NO flashes in self-test.


The code "2" indicates that there is a problem with the portion of the Brake Pedal Position BPP (or Clutch Pedal Position switch if a manual transmission) switch that is responsible for signaling the cruise electronics to disengage when the brake pedal is pressed.

The BPP, located on the brake pedal arm has two sections: One section switches power to the taillights when the pedal is pressed, the other section provides signaling to all the system components that require BPP status, including the cruise module.

Step 1 of the diagnostic is to ensure your brake lights work as both operable BPP sections run off fuse F15.

Steve

 

How do you run this self test?

dave

 

Ok, I did some testing on the BPP switch down on the brake pedal arm. Not sure exactly what wires are for what I decided to use some good ol common sense and an Ohm meter.

There are 5 wires in the plug that attaches to the switch on the arm.
Wires are as follows

Black with red stripe
Red with green stripe

Yellow

Green
Green with red stripe

When I touch the tabs on the switch itself on the first two I get resistance without the pedal pushed, when I push the pedal the resistance goes away.

On the second pair, it's just the opposite, no resistance with no pedal pushed and there is resistance when I do push the pedal.

I'm guessing this is not how it's suppose to be, can anyone confirm this? Is the switch bad? If so, looks a little tricky to remove, any tips or suggestions?

Thanks guys!

 

You may have miss-read the color tracer codes.
On an 02, here are the colors and what they should test.
12 volt input from a fuse is on white/ yc.
Output to the controller is red/light green.
Black/pink goes to ground.
With the pedal un operated, you should read the ground on the Blk/Pk on the Rd/LG thru the switch.
In the operated position the ground is removed from the Rd/Pk and battery is closed thru the switch from the Wht/yc to the Rd/LG as a signal to the control module to dump the servo.

**The back up to this is the brakes being applied hard enough (125 psi) to make the hydraulic pressure switch remove 12 volts to the controler thru another input and knock the servo off.
This info is from the Ford service disc for 02 and should be the same.
Trying to give the whole extended procedure is to long.
If you don't find any problem with the switch, there can be faults at other locations.
Look at the position of the switch against it's stop and make sure there are no mounting problems.

**The pressure switch side of this operation is a LG/RD feed to the pressure switch and a BLK/YE to the controller.
This part is not on the brake pedal assembly.

 

Ok, I crawled up under the dash again and did some tests again.

I used a simple test light, 12v

I connected the ground lead to the black/pink and the positive end to the red/lt green wire, with no pedal push the test light is off, with the pedal pushed the test light comes on

The middle yellow wire is hot all the time using the black/pink as a ground lead.

There are 2 other wires, Green and green/red
Using the green on the ground lead of my test light and the positive end of the test light on the green/red I get the test light on with no pedal, and the light goes off when I push the pedal.

Is the switch bad?

Thanks a million

 

Correct switch testing procedure:

Always HOT: LT GRN/RD (via F13) & WH/YE (via F15)

BK/PK = GROUND

Verify continuity between RD/LT GRN when the pedal is NOT pressed. When the pedal is pressed, the RD/LT GRN should be connected to the WH/YE wire (HOT). This is the circuit that is being tested by the cruise self test.

When the pedal is pressed, the LT GRN (brake lamp circuit) wire should be connected to the LT GRN/RD (HOT) circuit.

For what you tested, the switch appears to be working.

There is a diagnostic procedure involved here that requires a structured approach rather than just poking around. Try to follow my lead. If you don't, you'll likely end up just poking around....

You never answered my previous question: Do the brake lamps work?

If not, fix that circuit.

If so, measue the voltage with a meter at the speed control servo Pin 4 (Tan/Lt BLUE) to pin 10 (BLK) with the brake pedal pressed. You should have 12V.

Post your test results for the next step(s).

Steve

 

Hi Steve, thanks for the helping me with this. I've done more testing. First, yes the brake lights do work fine.

Second, below I pasted your instructions, I started from the begining and made some comments, I want to make sure I understand you correctly on all steps. My responses are in Bold letters

Correct switch testing procedure:

Always HOT: LT GRN/RD (via F13) & WH/YE (via F15) YES

BK/PK = GROUND YES

Verify continuity between RD/LT GRN when the pedal is NOT pressed. Can you detail exactly how to test continuity ?

When the pedal is pressed, the RD/LT GRN should be connected to the WH/YE wire (HOT). This is the circuit that is being tested by the cruise self test.

When the pedal is pressed, the LT GRN (brake lamp circuit) wire should be connected to the LT GRN/RD (HOT) circuit. Ok, using a 12v test light, the light comes ON with no pedal pushed and light goes OFF with Pedal Pushed.

For what you tested, the switch appears to be working.

There is a diagnostic procedure involved here that requires a structured approach rather than just poking around. Try to follow my lead. If you don't, you'll likely end up just poking around....

You never answered my previous question: Do the brake lamps work? Yes
If not, fix that circuit.

If so, measue the voltage with a meter at the speed control servo Pin 4 (Tan/Lt BLUE) to pin 10 (BLK) with the brake pedal pressed. You should have 12V. I pulled the plug connection off the servo box under the hood, wire I have in the #4 spot is Red with blue stripe, the #10 spot is black, I do have 12 volts there when the pedal is pushed.
Post your test results for the next step(s).

How does this look so far???
Thank you!

 

Sorry for the delay, was away from my documentation for a couple of days.

The switch is fine based on your testing. I do suspect you've misdentified some of the wire color codes, however, the results appear to be okay. I am concerned about the following:

"Verify continuity between RD/LT GRN when the pedal is NOT pressed. Can you detail exactly how to test continuity ?"

With an ohmeter, normally. However, since it appears that you have only a test lamp, verify that the RD/LT GRN wire is grounded when the pedal is NOT pressed. If that passes, then the switch is likely fine.

I'm not a fan of test lamps. They can easily give results that are not good enough for electronics circuits.

That said, if the switch passes the last test procedure, you've likely got a faulty cruise servo module.

Steve

 

Hi, well I found www.alldatadiy.com and bought the 1 year subscription for my truck. I did some more testing and decided to replace the switch, some last Ohm reading tests is had me do were borderline. So for eight bucks I replaced the switch.

Still not working. So I'm betting it's the cruise servo module. I'll call the stealer in the morning and see what that bugger costs. I'm going to go back through my tests now that I have replaced the switch and check that RD/LT Green wire for ground with NO pedal pushed as you reccomended.

I'll let you know how it goes, thanks a million for all the help.
Patrick

 

Steve or anyone, I'm stumped now. I have replaced the Brake Pedal Switch and I tried a new Cruise Control Servo and still no cruise control.

I run the self test, I still get the same 2 flases at the end.

I've also run the tests from the procedute found via my alldatadiy.com subscription for my truck. It all tests ok.

The only variables I see now is a raw circuit issue (broken or pulled out wire etc..) or ?????

Any ideas anyone??

Trying to solve before I head to the Ford Drags in Indianapolis tomorrow.
Thanks
Patrick