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  #91  
Old 02-12-2010, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
They do. That's what the stock one is.

Mileage will vary.
jeez. you know what i mean...but technically you are right. ok let me rephrase that. why dont they put higher flow cold air intakes or higher flowing filters on them from the factory?
and yes mileage varies. mine was a 4.2L 2wd reg cab longbed with a 3.08 rear and a 5speed. the same intake is on my 08 now and it only gave me maybe an extra 1.5-2mpg but it is an 08 4.2L reg cab shortbed 2wd 3.55LS 5 speed. but that 3.55 really takes advantage of that extra power. raced my buddy's 04 4.8L silvy again yesterday. we were messing around and when he took of from about 35mph, i just stayed right beside him. cant wait to go to the track...stupid snow
 
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Old 02-12-2010, 04:30 PM
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Wtf?

Originally Posted by Norm
Let me simplify it for you. Your F150 engine requires the output from the MAF sensor to correctly control your Air to Fuel ratio. The computer is programmed to safely deliver the correct amount of fuel for the air it has measured. By adding this resistor you are lying to the computer and removing that critical data. The consequences of this could be very serious. Just because you got lucky with your 89 Firebird does not mean you should recommend it as a valid modification. If it really was beneficial to your engine Ford would have changed the resistance of the MAF filament themselves or edited the computer air:fuel tables to get better performance and sell more vehicles.
Believe what you want. It is your truck and you pay for it. Burnt valves and cats are just two of the potential problems that can occur by using this device. There are many people here with much more experience and knowledge than you and you should learn from them.
i never said i recommended it.....i said I DID IT!!!!! and it worked. and all of you people are telling me it wont work even tho i had it in for about a year. no i dont have a dyno test result, i live it erie PA, no one makes enough to mod their cars that much here so a dyno is a scarce object around here. the people that actually have the money go and buy a BMW or a mercedes or 2 or 3. only thing i did was run a 0-60 and an estimated 1/4 run using a stopwatch and my odometer. made 0-60 go from about 13 seconds to around 11 and 1/4 went from being around 20 to around 19. and i could keep on my friend's intrepid after i put it in when before i got blown away. the OP bought this thing and asked about it, but now he cant even use it since he already has a CAI so it doesnt even matter anymore. jeez i swear i typed in f150 online in my browser, not youtube...
 

Last edited by timmypstyle; 02-12-2010 at 04:34 PM.
  #93  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by timmypstyle
jeez. you know what i mean...but technically you are right. ok let me rephrase that. why dont they put higher flow cold air intakes or higher flowing filters on them from the factory?
and yes mileage varies. mine was a 4.2L 2wd reg cab longbed with a 3.08 rear and a 5speed. the same intake is on my 08 now and it only gave me maybe an extra 1.5-2mpg but it is an 08 4.2L reg cab shortbed 2wd 3.55LS 5 speed. but that 3.55 really takes advantage of that extra power. raced my buddy's 04 4.8L silvy again yesterday. we were messing around and when he took of from about 35mph, i just stayed right beside him. cant wait to go to the track...stupid snow
Hello Timothy. How are you this evening?

I am very sorry I was not clearer and misunderstood your intent. Please accept my apologies. Thanks.

On to your questions then. I believe it was proven long ago that there is very little benefit in 'higher flow' filters. Trueflow once had a test & chart posted that demonstrated that there were zero gains over stock filtration, from their own filters, K&N, and a number of others. It's key to note that they were candid about their own products. Says a lot. That stuff is no longer there, unfortunately.

Having said that, we come to filtration effectiveness itself. The OEM paper filter does a good job. For most, the stock unit is fine, a nice balance of particle capture versus flow. K&N's may flow a little better, but can let in more stuff. Again - it depends upon your environment - clean urban versus heavy industrial/rural/offroad, etc, for example.

Now as for CAI flow - once again, lots to consider. The OEM is by no means the highest flowing, but does do a decent job in the 04-08's, and even a better one in the 09+ models. A Balance once more of low-end torque and adequate top-end, low noise, low costs, ease of production (injection-molded/spun plastic). It is also very quiet (3 Helmholtz chambers on the 04-08's). And of course, cost constraints. As I said - a balance.

No question that you could do better, by choosing wisely. But not a big enough difference in the ares a truck really needs - at the rpm's & loads a truck lives in every day.

It helps to talk to tuner folks who have done comprehensive testing on some of these aftermarket CAI's, to get sense of what potential is possible, if tuning is required, and any other info that only these folks would have an inside track on.

Bottom line - if I had $400 to spend it would be on a custom tuner first.

I hope this meager info helps you little bit.

Tanks & cheers
MGD v2.0
The kinder, gentler upgrade
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 02-12-2010 at 05:14 PM.
  #94  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Hello Timothy. How are you this evening?

I am very sorry I was not clearer and misunderstood your intent. Please accept my apologies. Thanks.

On to your questions then. I believe it was proven long ago that there is very little benefit in 'higher flow' filters. Trueflow once had a test & chart posted that demonstrated that there were zero gainsover stock filtration, from their filters, K&N, and a number of others. I beliive it key to note that they were candid about their own products. Says a lot.

Having said that, we come to filtration effectiveness itself. The OEM paper filter does a good job. For most, the stock unit is fine, a nice balance of particle capture versus flow. K&N's may flow a little better, but can let in more stuff. Again - it depends upon your environment - clean urban versus heavy industrial/rural/offroad, etc, for example.

Now as for CAI flow - once again, lots to consider. The OEM is by no means the highest flowing, but does do a decent job in the 04-08's, and even a better one in the 09+ models. A Balance once more of low-end torque and adequate top-end, low noise, low costs, ease of production (injection-molded/spun plastic). It is also very quiet (3 Helmholtz chambers on the 04-08's). And of course, cost constraints. As I said - a balance.

No question that you could do better, by choosing wisely. But not a big enough difference in the ares a truck rally needs - at the rpm's & loads a truck lives in every day.

It helps to talk to tuner folks who have done comprehensive testing on some of these aftermarket CAI's, to get sense of what potential is possible, if tuning is required, andany other info that only these folks would have an inside track on.

Bottom line - if I had $400 to spend it would be on a custom tuner first.

I hope this meager info helps you little bit.

Tanks & cheers
MGD v2.0
The kinder, gentler upgrade
Dude you are killing me... I think someone is hitting the moonshine

 
  #95  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:12 PM
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I agree with MGD tho, he's on the money.
 
  #96  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by TruckGuy24
Dude you are killing me... I think someone is hitting the moonshine

What ever it is, I REALLY NEED SOME!

FWIW - the information he presented is DEAD ON TARGET.
 
  #97  
Old 02-12-2010, 05:16 PM
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And yup, he sure is
 
  #98  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Tanks & cheers
MGD v2.0
The kinder, gentler upgrade
I like v1.0 better.

- NCSU
 
  #99  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:10 PM
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well this turned into a big ordeal. lol

how about this. it worked for timmy on his car but may or may not work on my truck. seeing as i have cold air already, i just spent 25 bucks on nothing. was my mistake for not coming here first and figuring this out.

the chip WONT be installed

and now i think i cursed myself with this damn thing. im getting the code P0136 saying bank 1 H02S sensor circuit malfunction. :/

any quick fixes for this??
 
  #100  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:17 PM
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This is from Bill Cohron at PHP:
--Description-- The downstream HO2S sensor(s) are continuously checked for maximum and minimum voltages. The test fails when the voltages fail to meet the calibrated limits.

--Possible Causes--
- Pinched, shorted, and corroded wiring and pins.
- Crossed sensor wires.
- Exhaust leaks.
- Contaminated or damaged sensor.
So, did you do anything in the vicinity of that sensor?

- Jack
 
  #101  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:21 PM
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its been snowing.. could water or salt/sand from the snow and roads cause this?
 
  #102  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:23 PM
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nothings been touched down there.. ever
i have 105K miles.. could it have just gone bad?
 
  #103  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 00grn5.4
nothings been touched down there.. ever
i have 105K miles.. could it have just gone bad?
Sensors can easily go bad. And salt is corrosive. I think at 105K miles, I'd suspect an actual sensor problem.

- Jack
 
  #104  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by 00grn5.4
nothings been touched down there.. ever
i have 105K miles.. could it have just gone bad?
Hello 00grn5.4! How ya doin?

Yes - that is entirely possible. 105k is well past time to consider changing the front O2's (and perhaps the rears as well).

The O2's need access to ambient air (via the harness entry point) as a reference.

Please use OEM / Bosch sensors only. Rock Auto has good prices.


Good luck!


Tanks & Cheers

MGD v2.0
The kinder, gentler upgrade
 
  #105  
Old 02-12-2010, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 00grn5.4
nothings been touched down there.. ever
i have 105K miles.. could it have just gone bad?
Uhh... well yeah.
 


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