Why NOT k&n
Originally Posted by hwm3
I couldn't agree more. You said the AF1 and others are only good for upper RPM gains and gain very little on the low side. Read this.
As far as decreased IAT temps go, read this.
If that doesn't make it plain to you I don't know what will. You can only live in theory for so long, then it becomes time to PROVE your theory.
As far as decreased IAT temps go, read this.
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
In fact, we recently did testing on Marc Carpenter's 2004 5.4 3V truck and showed that compared to the stock factory intake, which uses the cold air inlet in the fenderwell and is made of the black phenolic resin-based plastic, at IDLE, in heat-soak conditions, the AF1 intake showed a DECREASE in IAT's of about 6-8 degrees that continued for over 10 minutes at idle.
In fact, we recently did testing on Marc Carpenter's 2004 5.4 3V truck and showed that compared to the stock factory intake, which uses the cold air inlet in the fenderwell and is made of the black phenolic resin-based plastic, at IDLE, in heat-soak conditions, the AF1 intake showed a DECREASE in IAT's of about 6-8 degrees that continued for over 10 minutes at idle.
If that doesn't make it plain to you I don't know what will. You can only live in theory for so long, then it becomes time to PROVE your theory.

If the hood was open then the majority of the hot air normally contained and trapped in the engine compartment was free to escape. While I agree the heat would rise the temperature of the plastic the cold air intake would still bring in cooler air over an open element and therefore the open element would not be able to reduce IAT’s over the cooler air from the stock cold air intake.
Just because the plastic may have been hotter doesn’t mean a lot since the air would only have milliseconds to actually absorb any of the heat from the plastic whereas the open element, with the hood closed, would be sucking in nothing but much hotter air at idle.
You have to know all the conditions and circumstances of a test in order to reach the correct conclusion…
Last edited by 01 XLT Sport; Oct 4, 2005 at 07:03 PM.
Originally Posted by rawzon
the cold air all makes sense.. i mean hell.. my truck runs like a rapped date in the winter.
Since a supercharger will pack a lot more air into each cylinder then a naturally aspirated vehicle, supercharged vehicles experience more differences in horsepower and torque from hot humid air, which has much less oxygen in it, compared to cold dry winter air with tons of oxygen molecules in it…
Originally Posted by Superchips_Distributor
(Snip
those same few who are always here for only one obvious purpose - which is only to argue with everything we say here, just as these same exact few have always done.
That pattern is quite clear, and it's always the same people who promote the same nonsense time after time, despite them being proved wrong time and again by our properly controlled testing - properly controlled testing being something they have never done, of course.
those same few who are always here for only one obvious purpose - which is only to argue with everything we say here, just as these same exact few have always done.
That pattern is quite clear, and it's always the same people who promote the same nonsense time after time, despite them being proved wrong time and again by our properly controlled testing - properly controlled testing being something they have never done, of course.
Originally Posted by jpdadeo
Stop being an antagonist. If you got data post it but quit with the bogus theories will ya
Second, I asked a very logical question which was in regards to the open element having lower IAT temps compared to the stock cold air intake “at idle”. The logical question was:
Was the hood open or closed? That is like night and day and makes a HUGE difference in what the data means. The temperatures in the engine compartment with the hood closed, at idle, can reach temperature in excess of 200 degrees F. while if the hood is open and the room temperature is 75 degrees F the under hood temps will not be much higher then the room temperature, HUGE difference.
It does NOT mean the data is false but rather it means the data is just numbers that need to be justified. Data alone means nothing if you do NOT know the circumstances and/or conditions of the actual “controlled” test.
If this weekend is nice out I will do some testing with my Lightning on the IAT temps at idle. I will run it for 15 minutes with the hood open and data log the IAT temps. I will then close the hood and run it another 15 minutes and continue to log the IAT temps and then compare the difference.
It will be just as controlled as any other test, especially since nothing will change, it will be the stock cold air intake, first 15 minutes with the hood open and the next 15 minutes with the hood closed. I would suspect to see the IAT temps rise or rise a little more rapid in the second 15 minute segment since the engine compartment will go from 10 – 20 degrees F above ambient temp, since the hot air will be allowed to escape, to approx. 150 - 200 degrees F. with the hood closed where the hot air will be trapped.
I have a temperature meter where I will also be able to measure engine compartment temps. I will place the line in the area of the intake, towards the top of the hood, the hottest part of the engine compartment when the hood is closed (hot air rises and most open element intakes such as the AF1 are towards the hottest area of the engine compartment). This way I will be able to report back the engine compartment temperatures with the hood open vs. the hood closed.
Last edited by 01 XLT Sport; Oct 4, 2005 at 08:24 PM.
Originally Posted by 01 XLT Sport
If this weekend is nice out I will do some testing with my Lightning on the IAT temps at idle. I will run it for 15 minutes with the hood open and data log the IAT temps. I will then close the hood and run it another 15 minutes and continue to log the IAT temps and then compare the difference.
It will be just as controlled as any other test, especially since nothing will change, it will be the stock cold air intake, first 15 minutes with the hood open and the next 15 minutes with the hood closed. I would suspect to see the IAT temps rise or rise a little more rapid in the second 15 minute segment since the engine compartment will go from 10 – 20 degrees F above ambient temp, since the hot air will be allowed to escape, to approx. 150 - 200 degrees F. with the hood closed where the hot air will be trapped.
I have a temperature meter where I will also be able to measure engine compartment temps. I will place the line in the area of the intake, towards the top of the hood, the hottest part of the engine compartment when the hood is closed (hot air rises and most open element intakes such as the AF1 are towards the hottest area of the engine compartment). This way I will be able to report back the engine compartment temperatures with the hood open vs. the hood closed.
It will be just as controlled as any other test, especially since nothing will change, it will be the stock cold air intake, first 15 minutes with the hood open and the next 15 minutes with the hood closed. I would suspect to see the IAT temps rise or rise a little more rapid in the second 15 minute segment since the engine compartment will go from 10 – 20 degrees F above ambient temp, since the hot air will be allowed to escape, to approx. 150 - 200 degrees F. with the hood closed where the hot air will be trapped.
I have a temperature meter where I will also be able to measure engine compartment temps. I will place the line in the area of the intake, towards the top of the hood, the hottest part of the engine compartment when the hood is closed (hot air rises and most open element intakes such as the AF1 are towards the hottest area of the engine compartment). This way I will be able to report back the engine compartment temperatures with the hood open vs. the hood closed.

and the part of the intake being at the top of the compartment is true, but i would guess that might have something to do with A.)space and B.) water.. like if i cross some i dont want my intake sucking it up
am i wrong?
I’ll let you know the results, even if they happen to prove me wrong. Test data is test data. Yes some of the main reasons the open elements are towards the top is space and if there were close to the gournd could get wet which could block off some air flow as well as injecting some water into the motor.
Not good to suck water into the motor you would think its going to blow up the way it feels since water can not be compressed.
After thinking about how I would like to perform the test and what I might expect I am thinking I might not see a lot of difference in IAT temps with the hood open vs. closed since the intake will be sucking air from the same location, specifically outside the motor compartment.
What I might try to do is also test taking off the stock air box so the motor would be allowed to suck in air from under the hood. Then you would see a large difference in IAT temperature from open hood vs. closed hood.
I will have to take a look at it. It would be great to actually have an open element air intake but its not really something I want so I can’t see spending $100 or so just to test when simply disconnecting the stock air box will provide the same results but without filtering the air. I should be ok since I will leave the truck in the garage and there will be no dirt around to get sucked in.
Not good to suck water into the motor you would think its going to blow up the way it feels since water can not be compressed.
After thinking about how I would like to perform the test and what I might expect I am thinking I might not see a lot of difference in IAT temps with the hood open vs. closed since the intake will be sucking air from the same location, specifically outside the motor compartment.
What I might try to do is also test taking off the stock air box so the motor would be allowed to suck in air from under the hood. Then you would see a large difference in IAT temperature from open hood vs. closed hood.
I will have to take a look at it. It would be great to actually have an open element air intake but its not really something I want so I can’t see spending $100 or so just to test when simply disconnecting the stock air box will provide the same results but without filtering the air. I should be ok since I will leave the truck in the garage and there will be no dirt around to get sucked in.
Hmmm, let's see...Let's use this scenario. Ok, I'm getting ready to make a blast down the quarter mile. My engine is rumbling while I sit and idle waiting to pull up to the lane. I have an open element air intake under the hood, a chip, and a magnaflow exhaust. The staging lane line is pretty long, so I sit there idling. My race is next. I pull up and do my burnout in the soap box making the underhhod temps go up drastically. Then I pull up to trip the first staging light, wait 5 seconds and trip the final stage light. Now I'm sitting there idling waiting on the other guy to stage. By this time my underhood temps are 215 degrees. We sit there and watch the tree...waiting...waiting...yellow...yellow...Green ! Now it takes 5 seconds for all the hot air to make it's way out of the engine bay. By that time I'm almost half way down the track. I've just lost about 15 Hp during the first 5 seconds of the race due to the hot air going in my intake. I lost by half a car length. Dammit. All because I had an open element filter on my air intake instead of an enclosed filter which draws cold air from the get go. See what 01 is trying to say now? Simple logic folks. :santa:
Originally Posted by Peacemaker
Hmmm, let's see...Let's use this scenario. Ok, I'm getting ready to make a blast down the quarter mile. My engine is rumbling while I sit and idle waiting to pull up to the lane. I have an open element air intake under the hood, a chip, and a magnaflow exhaust. The staging lane line is pretty long, so I sit there idling. My race is next. I pull up and do my burnout in the soap box making the underhhod temps go up drastically. Then I pull up to trip the first staging light, wait 5 seconds and trip the final stage light. Now I'm sitting there idling waiting on the other guy to stage. By this time my underhood temps are 215 degrees. We sit there and watch the tree...waiting...waiting...yellow...yellow...Green ! Now it takes 5 seconds for all the hot air to make it's way out of the engine bay. By that time I'm almost half way down the track. I've just lost about 15 Hp during the first 5 seconds of the race due to the hot air going in my intake. I lost by half a car length. Dammit. All because I had an open element filter on my air intake instead of an enclosed filter which draws cold air from the get go. See what 01 is trying to say now? Simple logic folks. :santa:
If you would like to point to some actual test that PROVES the IAT would be higher with an open element filter design I'd be interested in seeing it. Until then all you have is THEORY. PERIOD.
i cant stop reading this thread.. its halarious..
person 1: here is the facts as have been tested.
person 2: here is my theory
person 3: but there isnt any proof of your theory
person 2: but its common sense
Person 1: repeats
person 2: repeats
etc etc...
you guys crack me up.
person 1: here is the facts as have been tested.
person 2: here is my theory
person 3: but there isnt any proof of your theory
person 2: but its common sense
Person 1: repeats
person 2: repeats
etc etc...
you guys crack me up.


