Rust, rust...finally handled.

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Old 07-29-2012, 10:23 AM
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Rust, rust...finally handled.

So I got under my F-150 for the first time a couple weeks ago (bought it like 3 weeks ago) and realized there was a serious rust build-up on the frame and brackets. So a few days ago I finally got my case of undercoating off Ebay and attacked the issue. After about 3 hours of rust removal and painting, I believe I have hindered its growth as best I can.
My question is, has everyone run into this issue on these trucks? I mean my rear leaf spring shackles/lower control arms looked awful from rust. After coating everything thoroughly with Dupli-Color Undercoating, I hope it's solved as far as damage/weakening to the frame and brackets goes.
I strongly suggest Duplicolor Undercoating, by the way. This stuff STICKS. I still can't get it off my arm where I bumped a freshly painted part lol.
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 05:30 PM
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You *SHOULD* have used POR-15.
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:04 PM
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:36 PM
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I see...well my knowledge on the topic was limited, but everyone I had asked said the Dupli-color was great stuff. I will keep this brand in mind for next time, tho. Hopefully I won't need it for awhile lol.
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:39 PM
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Thanks for these links...look like I may have been too hasty. Oh well, I'll hope for the best. Did you guys have rust issues as well? I got literally like 4-5 pounds of rust off the frame (mostly with an air blower nozzle) before coating it.
 
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:54 PM
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Unless you use a rust converter, it's just going to keep rusting under your brand new undercoating.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by glc
Unless you use a rust converter, it's just going to keep rusting under your brand new undercoating.
Rust converter?? I was told all I had to do was keep the oxygen off the rust and it would stop spreading...guess that was incorrect. What is a rust converter? Sorry if I seem ignorant, but I am. I have never had such a rusty vehicle before
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:12 AM
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I assume you mean these paint/sealers that pre-prep the surface for paint AND stop rust from spreading. I didn't know there were so many steps in this process...thanks for your help. I will know how to proceed next time around :-/
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by glc
You *SHOULD* have used POR-15.
rust bullet...there are some sources that say por15 is a scam. All marketing hype.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 02:47 AM
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POR 15 is good stuff, if you actually Paint Over Rust with it. Unless you do ton of prep and use all of their products, it won't stick to non rusted surfaces.

Either way, in this case, it sounds like POR 15 would have been good for this job. Anything else will not stop the rust.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 2008_XL
POR 15 is good stuff, if you actually Paint Over Rust with it. Unless you do ton of prep and use all of their products, it won't stick to non rusted surfaces.

Either way, in this case, it sounds like POR 15 would have been good for this job. Anything else will not stop the rust.
So it won't stick to sand blasted metal? Hard to believe since POR15 isn't just one paint. It's more of a paint line. So if you get the right stuff and yes, prep is important for any good job. You may even need an activator coat or adhesion promoter. Depends upon how well you want to do it.

But yea, I haven't heard anything derogatory about POR 15. Until now.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by slorider
Rust converter?? I was told all I had to do was keep the oxygen off the rust and it would stop spreading...guess that was incorrect. What is a rust converter? Sorry if I seem ignorant, but I am. I have never had such a rusty vehicle before
Correct, but the problem is that under coating is somewhat porus. That means that no matter how well you apply it, oxygen is still available. If it makes you fel any better, you will at least slow it down for a bit.
 
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:24 PM
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A rust converter turns rust into a hard black substance. One that comes to mind is Rust-Mort.

With all the time you spent cleaning it up, it would have been a good idea to use it prior to applying the undercoating. It's a thin liquid that can be brushed or sprayed.

Some rust converters are thicker, and latex-based. Those are good if you are going to use a conventional paint over it or leave it alone.
 
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrew
So it won't stick to sand blasted metal? Hard to believe since POR15 isn't just one paint. It's more of a paint line. So if you get the right stuff and yes, prep is important for any good job. You may even need an activator coat or adhesion promoter. Depends upon how well you want to do it.

But yea, I haven't heard anything derogatory about POR 15. Until now.
It is not derogatory, it is following the manufacture's directions.

The name of the file is perfect

Directions for people who don’t read directions :
http://www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/n...directions.pdf

Step #3 :
3. You must use Metal-Ready first if you are painting POR15 on new steel, galvanized metal , aluminum, or any smooth metal surface.
 
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Old 07-31-2012, 12:45 AM
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Good deal! I haven't seen that one yet. I was figuring if I used it right, it may save me a bit of welding. Huh, maybe that was something else

This one, -

7. "If you are perspiring and a bead of sweat
drops into the POR-15 can, the paint is ruined
and should be thrown out. It won’t stick
properly."
 



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