Scratch Advice *PICS*
#1
Scratch Advice Needed*PICS*
Long story short - I was straightening out my truck, I pulled out a couple feet, girl tried to squeeze behind my truck so she didnt have to wait, she scraped my bumper up and ****ed her civic up bad.
IMO its her fault, but who knows with CA laws.
These are pics fresh from the accident:
IMO its her fault, but who knows with CA laws.
These are pics fresh from the accident:
Last edited by Favre; 09-24-2007 at 08:35 PM.
#2
BTW- Built Ford Tough is true, my bumper doesn't even have a little dent or crease, and the rear quarterpanel on her civic is smashed in like 2 inches.... Just some tiny scratches left on my truck.
I used ScratchX, Meg's Cleaner Wax, and Goo gone and got it looking pretty good.
I used ScratchX, Meg's Cleaner Wax, and Goo gone and got it looking pretty good.
#4
Originally Posted by Jolly_Green_Giant
Looks lots better. However if it's deemed her fault I'd still make her insurance buy you a new one.
Oh, no doubt, but it will probably end up being deemed as my fault, Im almost positive that in CA no matter what happens, its the person backing out's fault.
#6
Originally Posted by Favre
By the way, I was asking for Advice on where to go from her as to working on the scratches even more....Any ideas?
#7
Just one of the few reasons why I never take my hitch out... But anyways, that broke the clear and looks like it's down to the primer in a few spots... Only way to fix that is to repaint. A cheaper alternative would be to get the touch up paint from the dealer and just use that as a "good enough" fix.
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#8
yes you prob right...it is going to be your fault(looking at it objectionally from your discription without being there....you say she could not wait, but maybe she thought you pulled in and she went on her way not knowing that you were going to immedately back out after pulling in)...but if her honda is jacked so bad and is going to have 1500 to 5k in damage and your insurance is going to pay, why not claim yours....diffrence in 1500 and 2000 grand doesnt matter to the insurance guys. one car or two cars...doesnt matter to them. if they are going to increase rates...adding your back bumper into the total will not be the straw that breaks the camels back.
#9
Originally Posted by Favre
By the way, I was asking for Advice on where to go from her as to working on the scratches even more....Any ideas?
Feeling the 2,000 you would not think it cuts much at all but it does.
#10
Originally Posted by Favre
By the way, I was asking for Advice on where to go from her as to working on the scratches even more....Any ideas?
#11
Originally Posted by Shinesintx
3M rubbing compound (fine). It does remove some of the clearcoat, but if you take the time, you can get it almost new again. If you use sand paper, it may take off more than you want. Use a soft wet cloth, and prepare to wear out your elbows. The FINE compound can actually you remove swirls and restore the finish. Again please remember that it will take a LONG time due to the fineness of the compound.
#12
Originally Posted by Shinesintx
3M rubbing compound (fine). It does remove some of the clearcoat, but if you take the time, you can get it almost new again. If you use sand paper, it may take off more than you want. Use a soft wet cloth, and prepare to wear out your elbows. The FINE compound can actually remove swirls and restore the finish. Again please remember that it will take a LONG time due to the fineness of the compound.
Just sandblast it b/c using the 3M compund and Sandpaper the wrong way is going to do more damage if you are not careful and you only have one crack at it using that method. So if you are hung like a mule, go for it.
The least aggressive way is always recommended. Since you have used ScrachX already I would try something like Optimum Hyper Compound or PoorBoys SSR3, or even Megs #82 with a heavy cut pad before I went to wet sanding.
This is hard to tell based on the photos but it looks like the ScratchX did a great job on the transfered paint. Now you have to get a tad more serious but don't go crazy.
Please look at these photos before you wet sand.
Before
After MY step 1
Finished product, no wetsanding
#13
Originally Posted by Shinesintx
3M rubbing compound (fine). It does remove some of the clearcoat, but if you take the time, you can get it almost new again. If you use sand paper, it may take off more than you want. Use a soft wet cloth, and prepare to wear out your elbows. The FINE compound can actually remove swirls and restore the finish. Again please remember that it will take a LONG time due to the fineness of the compound.
3M makes a lot of great products, but after playing with that fine compound you mention, I really dont like it. Last week, I did a Jeep for a buddy, and it was trail-marred all to hell, swirled, etc. the 3M crap took FOREVER and was not user friendly at all. Then, I pulled out one (Ok, some) of my goodies, and all the problems that could be fixed were fixed in a short order. So, not to be asinine, but 3M Fine cut Compound is NOT what I would reccommend.
#14
Originally Posted by Dr. Franko
Yeah compound or 2,000 either way you are going to take some clear off. Otherwise you won't get the scratches to look any better. I just got more comfortable with the 2,000. One thing for sure you need to know how much cut the product you're using has before going too far. At least he's not working with Black.
Always remember to stay with the LEAST aggressive method possible.
#15
Originally Posted by f-150sport03
Always remember to stay with the LEAST aggressive method possible.