Great write up. I actually bought a new switch of eBay and have been using it for the past couple of years but the finish on the buttons and the leds didn't quite match by Harley's switches. I just cleaned my old factory switch that I had kept for some reason and tested it out and all is good. I'll save the newer switch and use my factory buttons from the original switch when it dies.

 

Really would like to thank you....you just save me some $....thank you very much...i did everything step by step....works like a charm...

 

Might want to check for a broken wire between the door and body inside the big rubber tube/grommet. My drivers side door lock switch would not unlock the passenger side but would lock it. Worked both ways on drivers side...Bought a new switch and still nothing...so I checked the wiring harness between the door...the pink/yellow wire coming from the door lock switch had been soldered back together by previous owner...it was apart...not much play in the wires but i was able to strip both ends and put a butt connector that's also shrink tube...put a piece of metal under the butt connector to protect the other wires, then used a heat gun on low. Also found another wire they soldered...did that one as well while I was at it...dont know where that wire went to. Ford needs to have more play in the wires and maybe they wouldn't break from repeated door openings. My Truck is a 2006 F-150 XL..

 

I know, old thread, but it's a good one!!!! I've used the info here two or three times. These switches are the same as in some of my other vehicles, but I've never had issue with them. Thinking maybe F-150s have a higher amp draw? Last time I had an issue, as that lock out or "override" switch.