How to Fix a Defective Window Switch
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 1
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Note: I did this for my 2007 Ford F-150, but it should be nearly identical in terms of process for other vehicles.
Background:
A few months ago my passenger side window switch became defective. It was capable of rolling down the window, but was not able to roll it back up. I had to do it from the driver's side. I could still completely control the window from the driver's side, though, so I knew it was an issue with the switch. It's been a busy semester, so I had decided to put off looking into it until summer.
Well, today I was taking the dog to the park so I had my windows down, enjoying the day. When I got to the park, my driver's side window would not roll up. Same issue as the passenger's side; it would roll down but not back up. It took some playing with to get it to roll back up. In other words, I sat there for five minutes flipping the switch until it went back up. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, so I decided to leave it go until I had more time to look at it.
Sooooo that didn't work out so well. Being the intuitive mind that I am, I decided to check them out. The driver's side costs ~$70 to replace from Amazon, and the passenger's side costs $40, also from Amazon. I don't have $110 laying around to spend on window switches, so I wanted to try it myself. I did in fact figure out what was wrong, and fixed it. The cause of the issue was bad contact points. This is usually the case in terms of window switches becoming defective. All you need to fix this is maybe one or two small screwdrivers, and something to wipe off the contact points with (I used Cu Tips). This is a short tutorial of how to repair defective window switches with this issue.
First Step: Remove Window Switch
This step will vary based on your vehicle. You should be able to pry up a section of door panel to gain access. Just unhook any connectors necessary and use a small screwdriver to pry apart any snap-fits. You only want to be dealing with the switch board itself.
2nd Step: Gaining Access to Switch Internals
The caps over each switch (your window buttons with up and down arrows) will pry off easily. After those are off, remove the actual switches (white pieces for my truck). These were also snap-fits, so use one of the small screwdrivers to pry them out. Now remove the small metal tabs underneath. These were simply laying in position, so flipping the whole configuration over will allow them to fall out.
3rd Step: Diagnose your Situation
You may or may not have bad contacts. You will know immediately. If not it is something else, so do a little research and see what you need to do. If you are at this point you obviously wanted to try a DIY fix before paying over a hundred bucks for new switches. It's worth trying to fix while it's apart. If it doesn't work, you're out nothing and you have to buy new switches anyway. Worth a shot, right? Here is a look at a good vs bad contact.
Last Step: Fix it!
It's quite obvious the problem here was bad contacts. All I did was scrape off the crud and afterward wiped the contacts off. Use whatever tool can get the job done. If at all possible make the contact points as smooth as possible for a clean connection.
Just do everything in reverse to put it all back together and go test it. For me, it worked for both the driver and passenger sides! Good luck. This is a fairly straightforward fix if you're comfortable doing this. I had to take new pictures since I lost the old ones, and this whole process took me less than 10 minutes.
-Matt
Background:
A few months ago my passenger side window switch became defective. It was capable of rolling down the window, but was not able to roll it back up. I had to do it from the driver's side. I could still completely control the window from the driver's side, though, so I knew it was an issue with the switch. It's been a busy semester, so I had decided to put off looking into it until summer.
Well, today I was taking the dog to the park so I had my windows down, enjoying the day. When I got to the park, my driver's side window would not roll up. Same issue as the passenger's side; it would roll down but not back up. It took some playing with to get it to roll back up. In other words, I sat there for five minutes flipping the switch until it went back up. It is supposed to rain tomorrow, so I decided to leave it go until I had more time to look at it.
Sooooo that didn't work out so well. Being the intuitive mind that I am, I decided to check them out. The driver's side costs ~$70 to replace from Amazon, and the passenger's side costs $40, also from Amazon. I don't have $110 laying around to spend on window switches, so I wanted to try it myself. I did in fact figure out what was wrong, and fixed it. The cause of the issue was bad contact points. This is usually the case in terms of window switches becoming defective. All you need to fix this is maybe one or two small screwdrivers, and something to wipe off the contact points with (I used Cu Tips). This is a short tutorial of how to repair defective window switches with this issue.
First Step: Remove Window Switch
This step will vary based on your vehicle. You should be able to pry up a section of door panel to gain access. Just unhook any connectors necessary and use a small screwdriver to pry apart any snap-fits. You only want to be dealing with the switch board itself.
2nd Step: Gaining Access to Switch Internals
The caps over each switch (your window buttons with up and down arrows) will pry off easily. After those are off, remove the actual switches (white pieces for my truck). These were also snap-fits, so use one of the small screwdrivers to pry them out. Now remove the small metal tabs underneath. These were simply laying in position, so flipping the whole configuration over will allow them to fall out.
3rd Step: Diagnose your Situation
You may or may not have bad contacts. You will know immediately. If not it is something else, so do a little research and see what you need to do. If you are at this point you obviously wanted to try a DIY fix before paying over a hundred bucks for new switches. It's worth trying to fix while it's apart. If it doesn't work, you're out nothing and you have to buy new switches anyway. Worth a shot, right? Here is a look at a good vs bad contact.
Last Step: Fix it!
It's quite obvious the problem here was bad contacts. All I did was scrape off the crud and afterward wiped the contacts off. Use whatever tool can get the job done. If at all possible make the contact points as smooth as possible for a clean connection.
Just do everything in reverse to put it all back together and go test it. For me, it worked for both the driver and passenger sides! Good luck. This is a fairly straightforward fix if you're comfortable doing this. I had to take new pictures since I lost the old ones, and this whole process took me less than 10 minutes.
-Matt
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I'm not sure how old this thread is but I found it with a search. My problem was the front left driver's window would go down but not up. If you hit the switch a dozen or so times it would eventually go up. I bought a whole new switch and installed it to find a whole different set of problems.
I decided to try this fix. I found taking the switch block out very easy as I have done it several times. The biggest challenge I thought was keeping all the little parts straight once you have the switch block taken apart.
I cleaned the contacts with just the tip of a small screw driver and put it back together. To my surprise it works. Not perfect but it works. When I have time I will take it apart again and give the contacts a good cleaning and I believe it will be as good as new.
Thank you to the original poster and everyone else who kept it alive. It's a must have for your DIY library.
I decided to try this fix. I found taking the switch block out very easy as I have done it several times. The biggest challenge I thought was keeping all the little parts straight once you have the switch block taken apart.
I cleaned the contacts with just the tip of a small screw driver and put it back together. To my surprise it works. Not perfect but it works. When I have time I will take it apart again and give the contacts a good cleaning and I believe it will be as good as new.
Thank you to the original poster and everyone else who kept it alive. It's a must have for your DIY library.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: North Carolina
Thank you so much. This fixed my switch, I was fixing to order a rebuilt one for $20 when I found your steps and figured what they heck I will give it 10 mins and if I can fix it great if not I will order the rebuilt one. Well all I had to do was clean the contacts and all is good.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Thank You!
I have a F150 Harley Edition. The back passenger window would go down, but not up. It made NO noise at all! It was just dead. My master controls (drivers side) would not raise it, nor would the back window switch. The Master was dirty and it caused both switches to not operate. I would suggest always starting with the Master (drivers side) switch. I followed your advice and it worked! I completely cleaned all contacts and the window magically went up. I am so happy about this! Even if someone has a different vehicle, they can use this advice because it's all the same. My parts inside the window switch look different, but it didn't matter. Thank you for your posting. I was thinking it may be the motor, but it was just DUST! It cost me nothing, just my time which wasn't long. Thank You! 
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
What if this is not the problem? Like Stacy Ann, neither master switch nor left rear switch will raise the driver's side rear window. I have swapped the rear switch to the passenger side and it works over there, but the passenger side switch does not roll up the driver's side window. I cleaned the master switch contacts as described in this thread (thanks for the detail), but no luck there. Is there a way to test the wiring harness and/or the motor? I have the door panel off, but I don't see any mechanical problems (binding or breakage). I'm not sure what the next troubleshooting steps should be. I do not have a wiring diagram, and I am color-blind so that is always a pain in the butt. Additional info: there is power to the left rear switch, as the arrows are lit up, I think I hear an electronic click when I switch down, but not up. Thanks!
edit to add:
Reversed polarity between L-R switch and window motor and it rolled right up. So I am thinking there is a fault in the wiring on the up side of the switch (could be between the master switch and rear switch or between the master switch and the motor. OR could this still be a problem with the master switch? Any way to check that?
edit to add:
Reversed polarity between L-R switch and window motor and it rolled right up. So I am thinking there is a fault in the wiring on the up side of the switch (could be between the master switch and rear switch or between the master switch and the motor. OR could this still be a problem with the master switch? Any way to check that?
Last edited by couteau; Mar 7, 2014 at 03:12 PM. Reason: update info
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Just wanted to add my praise along with everyone else here. I had issues with my passenger front window not wanting to roll back up (hit the switch several times and it eventually would), my passenger rear window did not want to roll back up at all, and my driver side rear window didn't want to roll down. All individual switches work for their respective windows but my master switch couldn't control them. Took them apart, cleaned the contacts, and also remembered I had trouble getting the lock button to work as well. So I took that one apart and cleaned the contacts. Threw it all back together and everything's working great! My front passenger window rolls up a little slow, but it does the same whether you use the driver's side switch or the passenger switch. Thanks so much for the write up!
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 256
Likes: 1
Great write-up. Unfortunately, this didn't work for me. The front passenger window will roll down with the switch on that door, but not from the driver switch. Ordered a new Dorman replacement on Amazon. Now to wait a week...
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I see that this thread is a little old nevertheless I'm so glad it was still here! After months of jacking around with pushing the window button (and fearing the window would remain open when I parked at LAX resulting in a complete striping of my truck.....) I was about to drive over to the Ford dealer. Instead I searched and found this info - 20 minutes later all repaired! Excellent how to description and great photos!!! Thank you!!
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
different fix for my 2000 xlt
my switch was getting harder and hard to push. i tried the contact cleaning. that did not help to make the window rise.
as i investigated, i noticed that the plastic nub that pressed against the rise contact arm was worn down a lot. i scored it with a razor and sandpaper and rebuilt it with hot glue.
it took a couple of trials to get the right shape and height but all is better than new.
be careful to not make it wider than the original nub. needs clearance on both sides.
as i investigated, i noticed that the plastic nub that pressed against the rise contact arm was worn down a lot. i scored it with a razor and sandpaper and rebuilt it with hot glue.
it took a couple of trials to get the right shape and height but all is better than new.
be careful to not make it wider than the original nub. needs clearance on both sides.
