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Overhead Console Temp Display Repair

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  #61  
Old 02-14-2011, 12:43 PM
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How did you remove it? Are there clips and you just pull straight down on the console?---DirtySCREW
 
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  #62  
Old 02-14-2011, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtySCREW View Post
How did you remove it? Are there clips and you just pull straight down on the console?---DirtySCREW
There are 4 clips that attach to the plastic of the console to the metal of the roof brace. You CAREFULLY (at least I did) put a long handle screwdriver in there and CAREFULLY pull it straight down and the metal clips will finally "give" and the console will come straight down.

Be careful because the wiring harness is attached to it via a big connector, so you don't want to yank it down and have it hanging by the wiring harness.

I just carefully pried each corner down until it came down enough that I could stick my fingers in there and pull it evenly down the rest of the way. I've done it that way 3 times so far with no ill effects.

I have to take it down once again because I must not have pushed the resistor down on the PCB enough because it turned back off (or another one came up). I'll try and take pics of how I take it out this time.
 
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  #63  
Old 02-17-2011, 12:19 AM
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I Just fixed mine. your direction was spot on. Thank you.
 
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  #64  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:19 PM
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Ok, guys...finally took the plunge and got my overhead console off. Now I have a new problem. I of course have a 510 chip that is missing. I can NOT seem to find these chips. Went to Radio Shack and a local electronics store. Where are ya'll getting them at??? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!----DirtySCREW
 
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  #65  
Old 02-22-2011, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by DirtySCREW View Post
Ok, guys...finally took the plunge and got my overhead console off. Now I have a new problem. I of course have a 510 chip that is missing. I can NOT seem to find these chips. Went to Radio Shack and a local electronics store. Where are ya'll getting them at??? HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!----DirtySCREW
You don't need to use surface mount, you can go with a 51 Ohm resistor or a 50 & a 1 in series.

Take a look at post # 40 above, I show ( on a SuperDuty overhead console so they are 68 Ohm ) the normal resistor mounted to the PCB.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/4260712-post40.html

I just made a L at the bottom of the resistor and tint'd it so it was a quick hit with the soldering iron to get it on.

The surface mount resistor are used for wave soldering lines, they are the same 51 ohm resistor you can get anywhere ( the surface mount do a 510 to represent 51 ohm, not sure what the zero is for... same as the gold and silver stripes on a normal resistor ?? )
 
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  #66  
Old 02-22-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SSCULLY View Post
The surface mount resistor are used for wave soldering lines, they are the same 51 ohm resistor you can get anywhere ( the surface mount do a 510 to represent 51 ohm, not sure what the zero is for... same as the gold and silver stripes on a normal resistor ?? )
the zero is probably actually an O for Ohm
 
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  #67  
Old 02-22-2011, 09:41 PM
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I had the same thing. If you go back and find my post in this thread I think I said which one you can use from Radio Shack.
 
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  #68  
Old 02-22-2011, 10:10 PM
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Thanks guys!!! I'll go back to Radio Shack because they of course had those!! Thanks for the link SSCULLY!!!-----DirtySCREW
 
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  #69  
Old 02-25-2011, 12:39 PM
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Do you know if a 47 Ohm resistor will work? That's all my radio shack had-----DirtySCREW
 
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  #70  
Old 02-25-2011, 03:17 PM
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I think I would chance a 50 ohm, but 47 I do not know. Not sure what the resistors are for that are coming loose ( in the power path to the IC or from the OC to the display ), to know if going that low would be OK.

When I got the 68 ohm resistors for the SD overhead, I had to get a bag of resistors ( mixed values ) for ~ 5.00?

Do they have 2 100 ohm resistors ?

If you put these in parallel and then solder to the PCB, you would be making a 50 ohm resistor. That is closer to the 51.

I don't really know what is going to happen if you put a 50 in either.

If you twist 2 resistors in parallel the value is cut in half ( if they are the same ). If you put 2 resistors inline ( series ) the value is added.

Here is a page that describes the relationship ( had to go and find one ) and how the inverse relationship works.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/res_4.html

Example No2 gives a good idea on how different values with the 2 resistors in parallel work.
 
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  #71  
Old 02-25-2011, 11:01 PM
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Check out post #15 in this thread. I used the 48 from radio shack and that was back in 09. It's still working fine to this day.
 
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  #72  
Old 02-26-2011, 02:01 PM
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Tks jgger....all I could find at my Radio shack was a 47 ohm. I guess I'll give it a try...I mean it doesn't work now....what's the worst I could do to it! LOL---DirtySCREW
 
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  #73  
Old 02-26-2011, 06:00 PM
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Well, thanks for all ya'lls help. I got mine fixed today with the 47 Ohm resistor!!! I only have compass in the overhead console as my outside temp is displayed in the HVAC unit. Now to just replace the temperature sensor as it's off by about 12 degrees! ------DirtySCREW
 
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  #74  
Old 03-30-2011, 11:23 PM
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Mine stopped working a couple months ago. Took it apart and found 1 resistor hanging on by a hair. Asked the wife to fix it up for me since she use to repair electronic equipment full time. Works great now except the temp is a little off in cold weather... hot weather it displays the correct temp perfectly.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...d-display.html
 
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  #75  
Old 05-21-2011, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman03SprCrw View Post
Does your console not light up anymore?


Before you start the process, cycle the button a couple times to make sure its not just turned off.

Tools needed:
#2 Phillips
T10 bit/driver
Soldering gun & solder

If you are not experienced with a soldering gun use caution, or let someone tackle this that knows how to do the repair safely.

I am not responsible for any damages to you or your truck, this is merely a guideline to go by, individual results may vary


Start by removing the Phillips screw located above the mirror


In the rear door, there are plastic tab that have a metal clip. (one on each side) But all you need to do is just grab the console firmly and pull straight down on it. The console will pop off, make sure you dont pull too hard or you risk damaging the wires on the display.




The wiring connector is just clipped on the display, just slide it straight right to left



Disconnect the wiring connector, and take the console to your work bench (tailgate) and prepare to disassemble it.

Next you will see the 4 T10 screws.



Once removed, you will have the entire display unit



Take the green lens off, its just two clips to the housing on each side




The circuit board will just lift out of black housing. You can choose to disconnect the jumper harness from the board, or leave it on there and work around the harness and housing





Now that its fully disassembled we will now go over the repair process.

This resistor is the concern and will be the focus of my next series of pictures



From the side you can see that the resistor has popped up from the board slightly. I think this has to do with the board being suspended upside down in the truck and subjected to large temperature changes.



The repair process is actually quite simple, just a matter of heating up the solder, and nudging the resistor flat again, adding a pinch of new solder if needed.



Make sure its got full solder all the way across width of the resistor and you should be good to go.


Test the display on the truck before you completely put the display and console all back together

From there work back words through the steps and reassemble the display and console.


Put it back together after successful test run and enjoy!


If you see another resistor starting to lift, you may want to give it some loving with the soldering gun, but might not be needed.

Good luck.
Great info and had mine completly apart as pictured yet I didn't see this thread until i reinstalled.. Quick pull down again.. but.. have a querie/question? In your picture of the LCD display near the -188/top left corner of the glass display pad, did you notice or anyone else ..a darkened /blackened area in the display? I assumed it may have had a internal short between the layers of the glass display in that area and is the size of a shirt button. Just wodering..and it sort of looks as though it may be blackened in your picture. If you or anyone else can confirm, would be appreciated..

Thanks.
 
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