Overhead Console Temp Display Repair
#121
Good luck
#122
Need some help
Did mine today-really easy. The only problem I had was I lost one of the 510 resistors. Went to Radio Shack but all they had was 480, they said I could order the 510 but I called an electronic/computer guy I know and he said that the 480 will work fine. Had to fork out a whopping 99 cents for five of them. Stuck it back together and it works GREAT!! The only thing I would suggest different is to use an iron and not a gun to do the fix.
THANKS PATMAN!
THANKS PATMAN!
I have a black 03 F 150 super crew my beauty
#123
What is ideal is another 510 resistor. The little square ones are probably impossible to find.
Go to Radio Shack and tell them you need a 510 ohm resistor, which they may or may not have. Like my post says I ended up with a 480 ohm, and it still works flawlessly.
The one they will have is what is called a barrel type. It looks like a little piece of straw or a dowel with a wire comming out of each end. Bend the wires so they lay across the contact points where the 510 was and soldier away. The wires will be a bit long so just trim them to fit your needs.
Like I said before they are inexpensive, I think like a buck for 3 of them.
Good luck.
Go to Radio Shack and tell them you need a 510 ohm resistor, which they may or may not have. Like my post says I ended up with a 480 ohm, and it still works flawlessly.
The one they will have is what is called a barrel type. It looks like a little piece of straw or a dowel with a wire comming out of each end. Bend the wires so they lay across the contact points where the 510 was and soldier away. The wires will be a bit long so just trim them to fit your needs.
Like I said before they are inexpensive, I think like a buck for 3 of them.
Good luck.
#124
This was one of the first threads I read when I found this forum and since I was having the same problem I figured I would follow the simple instructions and see if I could accomplish the task at hand. It took two tries. The first time I thought I had the problem solved but a few miles down the road and out it went again. Surmised that I needed to keep pressure on the resister while I soldered it. So far it is working as it should.
torn apart....
15 minutes later.....
Thanks Patman for starting this thread and sharing your knowledge.
torn apart....
15 minutes later.....
Thanks Patman for starting this thread and sharing your knowledge.
#125
What is ideal is another 510 resistor. The little square ones are probably impossible to find.
Go to Radio Shack and tell them you need a 510 ohm resistor, which they may or may not have. Like my post says I ended up with a 480 ohm, and it still works flawlessly.
The one they will have is what is called a barrel type. It looks like a little piece of straw or a dowel with a wire comming out of each end. Bend the wires so they lay across the contact points where the 510 was and soldier away. The wires will be a bit long so just trim them to fit your needs.
Like I said before they are inexpensive, I think like a buck for 3 of them.
Good luck.
Go to Radio Shack and tell them you need a 510 ohm resistor, which they may or may not have. Like my post says I ended up with a 480 ohm, and it still works flawlessly.
The one they will have is what is called a barrel type. It looks like a little piece of straw or a dowel with a wire comming out of each end. Bend the wires so they lay across the contact points where the 510 was and soldier away. The wires will be a bit long so just trim them to fit your needs.
Like I said before they are inexpensive, I think like a buck for 3 of them.
Good luck.
I found a similar problem with the radio in a Ranger several years ago. The radio would play ok, but the display would go out. The problem was bad solder joints:
http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/Cars/Fo...7_9BJtR-X2.jpg
Before:
http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/Cars/Fo...0_gAywv-X2.jpg
http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/Cars/Fo...9_yTyoN-X2.jpg
After:
http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/Cars/Fo...2_cC7qg-X2.jpg
http://bob-ayers.smugmug.com/Cars/Fo...0_B2zbK-X2.jpg
Last edited by Patman; 08-10-2012 at 10:03 PM. Reason: taking IMG tags off the large images
#126
This was one of the first threads I read when I found this forum and since I was having the same problem I figured I would follow the simple instructions and see if I could accomplish the task at hand. It took two tries. The first time I thought I had the problem solved but a few miles down the road and out it went again. Surmised that I needed to keep pressure on the resister while I soldered it. So far it is working as it should.
Thanks Patman for starting this thread and sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Patman for starting this thread and sharing your knowledge.
#127
SMT Resistor Values
Some information on SMT resistor value marking:
In the case of the resistor with 510 The first 2 digits (5, and 1) are the resistor value, the third digit (0) is the X10 multiplication value. So, 510 is
a 51 ohm resistor. The resistors next to the 510 resistors, which are 101, are
100 ohm resistors 10, and 1X10 for the multiplication value.
In the case of the resistor with 510 The first 2 digits (5, and 1) are the resistor value, the third digit (0) is the X10 multiplication value. So, 510 is
a 51 ohm resistor. The resistors next to the 510 resistors, which are 101, are
100 ohm resistors 10, and 1X10 for the multiplication value.
#128
Some information on SMT resistor value marking:
In the case of the resistor with 510 The first 2 digits (5, and 1) are the resistor value, the third digit (0) is the X10 multiplication value. So, 510 is
a 51 ohm resistor. The resistors next to the 510 resistors, which are 101, are
100 ohm resistors 10, and 1X10 for the multiplication value.
In the case of the resistor with 510 The first 2 digits (5, and 1) are the resistor value, the third digit (0) is the X10 multiplication value. So, 510 is
a 51 ohm resistor. The resistors next to the 510 resistors, which are 101, are
100 ohm resistors 10, and 1X10 for the multiplication value.
#129
#130
Outstanding thread. Love it when people dig in and "repair" the part rather than replace it. I have the same issue with a 2002 F150. Will go out and get a soldering pencil tomorrow. Mine looks a little suspicious but cannot tell for sure. We will see.
I have seen a few questions about finding a wiring diagram for the console but never saw the answer. Anyone know where to find a wiring diagram? Maybe I missed it but any help would be appreciated.
I have seen a few questions about finding a wiring diagram for the console but never saw the answer. Anyone know where to find a wiring diagram? Maybe I missed it but any help would be appreciated.
#131
Found a good wiring diagram. Hope it helps anyone needing it.
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/39tnc...wire-head.html
http://www.justanswer.com/ford/39tnc...wire-head.html
#132
Dark console Solution THANKS
I dug this up searching for a reason my console stopped working and I had to join just to say thanks for the solution!!! Of course Ford would have replaced the board at an inflated labour rate, when it was only 10 minutes work to fix it.
Thanks so much for posting these idiot proof instructions. I will visit here from now on.
I am on my 4th Ford and I won't change now.
Thanks so much for posting these idiot proof instructions. I will visit here from now on.
I am on my 4th Ford and I won't change now.
#133
My 2003 F0150 Supercrew's overhead console, in addition to temp/compass, it also has lights on sides and moonroof button.
I removed the temp/compass controller board, and all solder joints look good with nothing unusual component. My guess is IC chip problem, but I cannot find any controller board for it. I checked ebay, googled, called local auto salvages, but no luck.
Someone told me these parts are not interchangeable, but looking at the photo of this initial thread, the PCB looks same as mine although the console casing is different.
So I'm assuming, as long as the model is 2003 F150, the inside PCB would be same even though the console casing are different? Could someone confirm, please?
Thanks.
I removed the temp/compass controller board, and all solder joints look good with nothing unusual component. My guess is IC chip problem, but I cannot find any controller board for it. I checked ebay, googled, called local auto salvages, but no luck.
Someone told me these parts are not interchangeable, but looking at the photo of this initial thread, the PCB looks same as mine although the console casing is different.
So I'm assuming, as long as the model is 2003 F150, the inside PCB would be same even though the console casing are different? Could someone confirm, please?
Thanks.
#134
#135
Got it Fixed !!!
I found an overhead console on eBay, and it claims it's for 1995-2012 FORD F150 that will work on my 2003. The console look exactly same as the photo on this initial thread, but the PCB looks different in shape.
Anyhow, I tested the PCB with my DVM, and I noticed there were two resistors intermittently reading different resistance. Although from visual inspection it looks fine, I re-soldered them and now they work fine.
Thanks to the original poster!!!
Anyhow, I tested the PCB with my DVM, and I noticed there were two resistors intermittently reading different resistance. Although from visual inspection it looks fine, I re-soldered them and now they work fine.
Thanks to the original poster!!!