underglow
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#9
The output of the alternator is fine.
You might want to invest in a Optima Yellow Top battery. They are a great deep cycle battery, especially if you want to run the underglow with the engine off for long periods of time without destroying the battery.
Another suggestion would be to make sure you fuse! Fuse ALL connections to the battery! You don't need to see you truck burst into flames if there is a short or if water messes up a connection. I had a close call 2 weeks ago when I had a wire short out, but it was fused, but not the right type for the load.
I recommend using 12 to 14 AWG twisted-braid copper wire, and use top-of-the-line BUSSMAN fuse holders and BUSS blade fuses. I'd solder all connections, and heatshrink them ALL. Get a decent toggle switch with GRD, ACC, and PWR. If it's a lighted switch, you will need to make sure the GRD and is connected on the switch. If you don't want it to light, you can skip the GRD, and directly GRD the ACC, being you underglow lights.
Also, watch for load considerations. Make sure you don't parallel too many lights together, and wind up having an overdraw, which is kind of hard to do, but it's completely possible, which is also bad. If need be, separate the lights, and have 2 or more switches for load balancing and equilization.
Just some suggestions if you do heavy lighting.
You might want to invest in a Optima Yellow Top battery. They are a great deep cycle battery, especially if you want to run the underglow with the engine off for long periods of time without destroying the battery.
Another suggestion would be to make sure you fuse! Fuse ALL connections to the battery! You don't need to see you truck burst into flames if there is a short or if water messes up a connection. I had a close call 2 weeks ago when I had a wire short out, but it was fused, but not the right type for the load.
I recommend using 12 to 14 AWG twisted-braid copper wire, and use top-of-the-line BUSSMAN fuse holders and BUSS blade fuses. I'd solder all connections, and heatshrink them ALL. Get a decent toggle switch with GRD, ACC, and PWR. If it's a lighted switch, you will need to make sure the GRD and is connected on the switch. If you don't want it to light, you can skip the GRD, and directly GRD the ACC, being you underglow lights.
Also, watch for load considerations. Make sure you don't parallel too many lights together, and wind up having an overdraw, which is kind of hard to do, but it's completely possible, which is also bad. If need be, separate the lights, and have 2 or more switches for load balancing and equilization.
Just some suggestions if you do heavy lighting.
#10
#11
if you are gonna do that make sure you install the l.e.d version of the underglow, there brighter , tougher and they last longer. Ive installed them myself on my Dakota (and yes it was a street truck) The only problem you may face is that the wires connecting the lamps to the module may not be long enough. Look into that before you purchase them. Also to properly mount them you two extra lamps because you cant mount them where the cab changes to the box, there is too much flex. Any other questions just let me know
#12