How long is the power wire run (approx) from the battery to behind the rear seat???

Thanks-

 

Well, do you have a regular, cab, super cab, or super crew?

And it will depend on how you want to run the wire. I have a super crew and ran about 17 feet from the battery down the wheel well, along the frame, up into the passenger grommet and to the back seat area. I had plenty left over. If you go along the frame, run the wire inside some solid wire loom - don't use that cheesy cheap stuff with the split in it.

 

I'd get at least 30 foot. You're going to want to do a big 3 upgrade if you haven't and that extra length will fit the bill. Real question is how much RMS power are your amps rated for. I'd recommend just getting some 0/1 gauge, in-line fuses, and a distribution block, plus one for the battery.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/

 

30 feet of power wire?

That's way too much.

 

Not if you haven't done the big 3 and you still have to run grounds.

 

I agree with Impact. Plus, its not a strait line to the back wall, theres kinks and up downs that you have to account for as well. And of course the big 3

 

Unless you have a high output alternator, you shouldnt need more than 20 ft. I used maybe 12-14 ft running it under the truck to the back wall, and another 3-4 ft on the ground upgrades I did. The chassy/frame ground is necessary, along with the battery (-) to chassy. The upgrades to the alternator wires dont need to be done unless you have an aftermarket alternator. The stock wires will handle the stock alternator just fine.

 

When I ran my power wire, I took 1bad86vmax's advice. Look at post number 8 in this thread.

https://www.f150online.com/forums/am...-pictures.html

I got all the materials I needed at the local Lowe's store. IMO, this is a very good way to run the power wire. This should last for the life of the truck easily.

 

Deleted.

 

Sure it could last but so could the way I did it in that same thread. I probably didn't spend as much as he did to accomplish the same task. Not that I disagree with his method because I actually do like how his came out. There's just another way to skin this cat.

Anyways routing is not the topic here, it's cable length.

mSall I think your total feet is about 25' to include some comfort zoning. But you should do the big 3/4 regardless. It's just good circuit design.

14' for the power from the battery to a distro block.
4'+ for a distro ground block to frame/solid ground point.
then if you have umber amps that use 0/1 gauge wire you're going to need to go from the distro blocks to the amp power and ground. So you might figure in another 6' for all that.

now figure in the big 3 err big 4...

4 foot for battery to alternator.
6 foot for starter (engine ground) to battery negative.
3 foot for starter to frame ground point.
2 foot for frame to chassis.

So let me revise my 30 foot to 20 foot red 0/1 and 15 foot black 0/1.

Point is, it really really sucks to be installing and end up short and having to run around town trying to find someone selling 0/1. Then it detracts from the install when you mix cable brands. I like to keep it pretty when I can.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I ordered from knuconcepts again. They seem to have good stuff. Went with a 4 gauge amp kit that had 18' (before I read all the replies) I'm not doing anything crazy though, that will be plenty.

Thanks for the replies-

 

I agree , it's always better to have to much than not enough .

 

I totally agree, but cable length depends on how you route the wire.