hey guys more questions. Yeah, I'm full of questions when I try something I have never done before, lol.

Question 1:
While looking at the subs earlier today i noticed the connection terminals are quite small for thick speaker wires like the 4guage and such, am I suppose to use that or do I just use a regular(like 12 or 14 guage) speaker wire? Wouldn't regular speaker wire be too small to handle the current from the amp to the subs?? Here's a pic of the terminals on the subs


Question 2:
I am planning on making a box close to the picture I have above in a previous post. The changes are: I am making it rectangle (taking out the one lower side) and making it basically just short enough to hold the 2 subs side-by-side. I plan on putting a brace in the middle of the box (where the red line is) but I plan on cutting a hole in the brace so the air has the room of the full box. Now with that, Would I have to multiply the inside volume by 2 subs or would the airspace be the same that way as if it were just 1 sub? If you know the answer I am ready to hear it, As of now the drawing pad has the plan accounted for the internal space of 1 sub with the 2 in there and a hole in the brace to share the air.

Question 3:
What RCA's should i get to connect the headunit to the amp? Is there some special features I should be looking for or can I just go to Radioshack or Bestbuy and Pick something off the shelf? Would I be better off finding the wire and trying to make my own cables just getting cables and ends??

Thanks for all your guys help and even more thanks for putting up with my million question marathons. XP

 

The spring terminals on the L7 can handle I believe 10 or 8awg wiring. Just take note that smaller wiring won't carry the power as well, while larger wiring just gets to be expensive. I would use 10awg, that would carry plenty of power without the threat of even getting warm.

As for your box, keep in mind that the smaller the box build, the more power you'll need to get proper sound out of it. I would really suggest keeping to the manufacturer's specs, or no less than 15% loss in air space. Too little space would mean a great deal of pressure that the woofer needs to move against. The more pressure, the more power you'll need. Woofers can handle a bit more power than normal with a smaller enclosure because of the decrease in pressure, but running more power does run more heat which can threaten the voice coil of the woofer by melting the coating over the wiring, creating a short. So I wouldn't go less than 15% loss of air space.

As for the RCAs, I've used standard RCAs and Monster shielded RCAs, and I've never encountered an issue with alternator whine in any of my installs. I have, however, seen basic RCA wires carry alternator whine, and it sucks lol. One key thing to remember is to run your power wire on one side of the vehicle, and run your RCAs on the other. I personally feel best running shielded cables, to me it's just piece of mind. Other people will have their opinions as well. Some will agree with me, others will say basic cables are fine too. At this point, it's all up to you. If anything, I'd at least consider a set of Rockford RCA cables.

 

ok, So I can just get a standard (12 volt / car accessory) wire from autozone to run this? or does speaker wire have something that the regular wire doesn't to make me have to use {speaker wire"?

As for the box I am asking if I need to double the space of the box for 2 subs sharing the same airspace or can I make the box to the size specs of 1 sub??
The subs need .66-1.0 cu ft of internal volume each, What i have planned comes out to .889 cu ft of internal volume would that work with 2 subs in 1 box or do I need .889 each sub even though they are sharing the same airspace?

 

You can use Autozone 12V accessory wire. All wire is pretty much the same except their compositions. I would get a small spool of coupled wire though, where it's two strands in one run and you can just pull them apart if you need to. I'd do this because they are clearly labeled for your positive and negative. Some people will use what wires they do have and forget which is negative and positive, then they'll cancel their subs out. Also, using speaker wire for the purpose of easier identification is just good habit.

As for your enclosure, even though your dual-woofer enclosure is going to have one single chamber, the rules of a subwoofer's air space requirements remain the same. You would still need .66-1.0cuft of internal air volume per woofer. Since you have two, you need to have between 1.32-2.0cuft in the box as a whole. Anything smaller than that, you'd need more power to get good volume out of your subs. Adding more power than what the manufacturer rates a subwoofer for brings the threat of premature thermal wear on the voice coils. For your box, since you're running a 1000Wrms amp, I wouldn't go any smaller than 1.15cuft for the entire enclosure to have two of the 10L7's, and that is pushing it.

The only way you can have two woofers in a box that is designed with the air space of one woofer is having an isobaric enclosure, and there is no space under the seats to allow for such an enclosure. Hopefully this helps!!

 

Hey guys, if I was to get a RCA cable that is too long would it hurt the sound to wrap up the excess cable behind the amp board? or would I be better off trying to get as close as I can to exactly what I need?

Are the "aftermarket / Performance" battery terminals like the Kicker, Scoche, etc brand name terminals work any better than a regular universal cable end you can get at Autozone or should I look into getting a set of them too??

EDIT: Also with the following sub setup how do I run the wire that doesn't leave the sub, Is that pos/neg of coil 1 to pos/neg coil 2 right? or is that pos to neg on coil 2? Hopefully you get what I am trying to ask.

 

Ok, So i went to lowes and got the MDF and the cuts are a bit off so I have to trim some other pieces but it is still in a good range for the subs. How and with what is the best way to trim like 1/8 of an inch off 3 small mdf boards? The 2 sides and the center divider. Would I be better off with a bunch of sandpaper and a day or 2 to get it down the right thickness, would a rotozip work good, any sugestions I am up to hearing? Hopefully my dad has something around here I can use to do this so i only have to buy a blade if that.

 

Any battery terminal would work good as long as it is able to connect everything you need to operate your car and audio equipment. I have a Scoche connector that has two 4awg connectors, two 8awg connectors, and a top-mounted screw post. It works great for me!

With the RCA cables, try to keep as close to what you need as possible. Personally, I've never had any problems with wrapping the excess under the carpet or behind the headunit, but some people may have. I've never heard of any problems.

As for your boards needing cutting, your best way to shorten the pieces would be with a table saw, or a table planer. Table saws are much more common for people to have since they are more versatile and can be measured better, but either one of those would work. Another thing you can do would be to use two poeces of steel, put one piece on either side of the board and measure it to where you need it cut. Then you fasten the plates where needed and run a hand-held belt sander over the section you need removes. The plates will help keep you from removing more than what you need. All in all though, your best tool will be the table saw. Try to check with your dad or friends about using one before going with the double-plate sanding method.

 

ok, So I have the whole box together but I realized after I put on the back (top of downfiring setup) that I should have put on the front first, but by then it was too late. So I have it all glued together now and I was wondering if it would hurt the setup if I just caulked the outside for the box arond the top instead of the inside, or do I have to practice my Circus skills and contort my hands into the inside? Even if I have to seal the inside, would it hurt is i ran a bead on the outside too? (Given i have enough caulk leftover after doing the inside)

 

It never hurts beading the outside of the box, but it is essential the inside is sealed. Since pressure is created from within, then the inside of the box is where it needs to be maintained. A lot of times, if you used enough wood glue at all of your joints, caulking compound won't always be necessary. But just for habit, it's always best to ensure the inside of the box is sealed. A lot of people like to use fiberglass resin because it is applied much easier than a tube of caulk (if you can get the brush to fit in there), but silicone caulk is more preferred because it can absorb pressures created internally so it won't crack and cause leaks like resin can.

But yeah, you gotta seal the inside.

 

I'm hoping you used Screws as well as glue right ?

 

Yeah, I assembled dry with screws then took it apart and applied glue and secured with 2" drywall screws and over 3 days got the whole thing glued together. Before glueing the last side on I did 3/4 of the sealing then I put the last side on and caulked it the next day so it is drying now. Still to do is run wires and lift seat. for it to fit along with run wires in vehicle and do actual mounting. I basically have all of the box planned out but as for the wires in the truck I still have to take the wires and find out what kind of room I have to work with, Hopefully I don't have to drill holes for wires, but I am expecting to have to. and with that I still have to mock up the amp board and figure all that out.

Anyone with suggestions on making things easier I don't mind suggestions.

 

Biggest suggestion I can make is to do the project when your mind is fresh, and don't anticipate doing it in one day. Have the availability to do it over the course of a few days. That kind mentality will help keep you patient. Personally, I always mess something up when I'm working under frustration or impatience. Another thing to suggest is to remove ALL of your paneling, flooring, seats, anything that is in the way of your wiring route. Some people try to tuck wires here and there without removing anything, chances are it will just mess up and you'd have to go back at it again anyway. Sounds like you're doing good though! Hopefully you're taking pictures and I can't wait to see the finished product! I know you've been at this for a while!

 

What i do is i try and do a segment or so a day. Take maybe an hour or two (depending on how long what takes) and do one or two small things at a time, or do parts of a bigger thing (like when i was building the box) and not be overwhelmed all at once since this is my daily driver.

so I have the box together and that is about it aside from some mental pics i have conjured up in my mind of the possable outcomes for the box. so far all I have is as follows

(I will go around and try to setup a photoshoot of what I have equipment wise.)
and the rear seat completely removed from my truck to try and figure spacing(fit box and seat for head clearance, or just remove the rear seat completely which I really don't want to do) and what will need to be done. I only think of not putting the seat back in because with eye judgement with box on floor in front of the seat it looks like the seats might be up about the hight of the folding center console while set up as a seat.

Seeing how the box is just about the same size hight and deep I was contemplating turning it on it's side and making it an out fireing instead of down, any input on this? Would that make it sound any better or worse?

What I have:

• Kicker ZX1000.1
• 2-Kicker S10L7-2ohm subs
• Kicker PKD1 (1/0 power wire kit)
• a built box (Dual sealed) not covered and probably not for a while*
• Extra wood for Amp board and door speaker mounts (probably a while down the road, This'll be alot easier than the sub i think)
• No back seat in truck...lol
  

On the way:

• 8g wire (red and copper-ie brown(according to pic))
• 2- Kicker 09DB1448 Distribution Blocks for on the sub box to split audio signal from 1 wire to 2 subs (for both +/-)
• Kicker 09GT1 Ground Termination Terminal
  

What I need to look into still:

• RCA Wires
• Grills for subs (depending on box placement)
• Risers for rear seat to fit over box (if seat is replaced)
• Amp Board for back wall of truck
• Wood slats for feet of sub box to make it level on floor
  

*= Plan on looking into getting the interior re-done on the truck and figured I'd just take the box apart and have them cover it then and re-assemble afterwards.

If I put the box "sideways" I will need to look into grills to protect the subs.

well, That's all i can think of for now. If i think of anything else I will edit and add. i don't think i will though (think of anything that is).

Aside from the sub project, I have been working on getting "Stock" foglights to work on my non stock fogged truck. I finally have the housings in and the HIDs ordered, Now I just have to connect wiring to get power (Signal for HIDs) to them.

 

When it comes to running the power wires should I use some solder and make the tips of the cables 1 piece then screw into the fuse/distro block? or can i just leave it as bare wire in 4000+ strands?

EDIT: Does anyone have any pictures of how you have your amp rack behind your seats in a 99 range? Looks like Phattacorider has a 04-08 and I don't know how different the seats are in the two. I am trying to get an idea of how to mount the amp on a piece of 3/4 inch wood or mdf (depending on what size I need, I only have certain size scraps) on the back wall hopefully behind the stock seat, If i have to I don't mind going to Ace Hardware and getting longer seat bolts.

 

You can just leave it as bare wire . Most fuse/distribution blocks have an Allen screw that holds the wire in .