Evening fellows and ladies,

I have a factory radio/cd/tape player in my truck, and I have replaced all the speakers. There's 2 Lightning audio's in the front doors, and 2 Pioneers in the rear. The lightning audio speakers have no bass, and only 1 of my rear pioneer speakers works. (I took the radio apart and checked the boards for cracks/ etc. but couldn't find anything) I was thinking about putting a sub or two under the back seat, and I would like any recommendations.

I don't have a lot of money, and I don't want to spend a lot of money. I would just like some bass back. I have seen some 1000 watt amps on ebay go for $50-60. Are they crap? Well, better question, will they work?

Any recommendations on a cheap setup, that will give a little more bass will be appreciated...

 

The rear speaker may be faulty, or the wiring may be a problem. You really don't want a lot of bass out of your door speakers. Buy an amp and small sub and let the door speakers run mids and highs. A component sub is best, but you may be satisfied with something like a bazooka Tube

 

What exactley do you call cheap? In the Speakers and Subs forum, someone linked to an Ebay auction that had two 10 inch Kicker CVRs WITH a box for 160some bucks. Thats a pretty good deal.
A decent amp that actually puts out some power is going to cost you around 150 200 bucks, depending on if you want new or used, how high of quality you want, and how much power. Price can vary BIG TIME on amps.

1000 watt amp for 50 bucks is most likey peak power (which means NOTHING) so real RMS power is probably like 400, plus its probably a bottom of the barrel brand.

 

Thanks for the advise guys.

 

Yep. If you need help picking anything out or finding anything, let us know

 

Could someone please comment on these for me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Lightning-audi...QQcmdZViewItem

For $29, I get 2 12's. I know they're Lightning audio, but I have 2 in my doors, and they've been good for a long time.

Total Junk? or will they do ok for a farmer?: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Lightning-Au...QQcmdZViewItem

How about this 15? http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Lightning-Au...QQcmdZViewItem with this amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/LIGHTNING-CAR-AU...QQcmdZViewItem

I would like an amp that I could just tap into a speaker wire, and call it a day. What would you suggest to use with these speakers?

Would this work? http://cgi.ebay.com/Lightning-Audio-...QQcmdZViewItem

Sorry to be so ignorant guys. :o

You don't have to follow all those links if you don't want to. I'm just looking for a system for under $100, and the cheaper it is, the more I can brag about it!

 

Haha, well, for 100 bucks I guess your probably not going to do a whole lot better

I would skip the first link, just because I have a thing about buying cheaply made used equipment lol.

I would go with a pair of the P2.10.4s and the B250.1 amp
These: http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Lightning-Au...QQcmdZViewItem
And this: http://cgi.ebay.com/LIGHTNING-CAR-AU...QQcmdZViewItem

I dont think your going to find a pair of subs and an amp for under 100 bucks besides those ones unless you get some very used mid line equipment lol

 

Thanks for your help. What would be the difference between getting two 10's rated at 150RMS or 2 15's rated at 150RMS? I guess I'm not seeing the relationship. Thanks again for your help.

 

15's have more surface area to move air than a 10 does so the 15 would theorectically play louder than a 10 with the same power. though not necesarily as accurate at reproducing sound than the 10 would, this is why 12's are the most popular, best of both worlds in most cases.

 

Those 15s would work to if you wanted to go that route...you would just have no back seat...

 

I REALLY appreciate the advise. I just want to get the best I can for $100. I really don't care about it lasting forever. And I WILL NOT have it wide open all the time, so cheap components would probably work fine... I just need to know what I have to have to get the job done. Would a 300 RMS amp, and 2 150W 10" subs do good? Or would it sound about like the stock speakers? The stock ones will hurt my ears!

 

I have a JBL 10" sub under the backseat with a 600 watt JBL amplifier driving it. I got all this stuff super-cheap as I was working for Harman International at the time. My biggest expense was the sub box that I ordered for around 100 bucks. The carpet matched my interior perfectly.

The single 10" in my extended cab is louder than most of my friends can handle and hits very, very hard. The benefit to the 10" is that people can actually sit in the backseat and have a place for their feet. You start looking at 12's or 15's and that foot room gets harder and harder to come by.

My sub box goes completely under the 60 part of the rear seat, including over the slight hump. My amps (I also have a 450x4 JBL amp for the door speakers) are under the 40 part on the driver's side.

If you're looking to upgrade your door speakers at all, I have the Infinity Kappa Perfect 5.1's. They are truly amazing.

I would invest in a good box first. One that will have the proper amount of air space required for the sub to function properly. My box is down-firing, meaning the sub is pointed at the cab floor. I've seen people use up firing subs (firing through the seats) as well as a slew of forward firing 8's. I've seen people put their sub in the center console. It's all about how you use your truck and how well you want it to sound. At low volume, mine is very subtle, blending in nicely with the sound being produced by the door speakers. At mid to high volume, it kicks in, but never overpowers the door speakers. I have an excellent balance in my truck. It may not be the absolute loudest in the metro Detroit area, but I guarantee it's one of the best sounding ones in town.

If you build a box yourself, be certain that the cu.ft. of air required for the sub is *****-on accurate. Too much and it won't hit hard enough, too little and it won't have room to breathe.

Good luck and have fun!! Remember, once you have your sub in, you can move it to your next truck, so spend a litte more, it'll last you a long time if you do!

 

Thanks for the advise. So, your speakers are mounted pointing straight down UNDER your back seat? Where are the vent holes pointing?

Oh, and thanks for the advise on the size of the box. I didn't know it was important to have any particular size cubic inch box.

 

I would assume his is a sealed box.
Space under the back seat is very limited, and for most subs, you would never get enough airspace to go with a ported (vented) box. (most of the time going ported calls for a larger box than sealed)


Are you wanting a box that will go under your seat, or just something you can throw on the back seat?
Youll never get those 15's to fit if you want under the seat...your only option are the 10s then.

 

I've got a 12" on the way. It was cheap. It is capable of 150 watts rms, 8 ohms.

I've had my eye on an amp with these specs:
50w x 4 @ 4 ohms
75w x 4 @ 2 ohms
150w x 2 @ 4 ohms

But my speaker is an 8 ohm speaker. Could someone please clarify the relationship between wattage and ohmage. Can I combine the 2 150W outputs into 1 300W output at 8 ohms?

Thanks for the advise!