Recently, on a long drive, I pulled in to a gas station and forgot that I had turned my fog lights on earlier in my drive. I love the look with the lights on but rarely do I actually turn the lights on because I rather enjoy the use of the auto-headlamp feature so I don't have to remember to turn off the headlights. I don't usually care for regular DRLs because those turn on the headlamps and I prefer the enhancement of the signal light instead.

My solution was to buy a DRL-1 kit from WebElectric ($40). I installed it over the weekend and it basically turns the front signal lamps into DRLs.

During the day, the signal lamps light at full intensity. When the parking lights turn on, the DRLs auto-shut off. And I tied it all in to a switch in the cab that allows me to disable the function altogether if I decide I don't wish to use them at that time.

I hooked the module up to fuse #32 which is the delayed accessories fuse. I didn't see a spare 15 amp fuse that was delayed so I used an Add-A-Fuse module for a clean install.

Since I hooked up on the fuse panel which is located near the passenger side, I ran my wire out at that side and hooked up to the passenger side of the vehicle.

Wire Colors on passenger side: Yellow / Green = Parking lamp. Yellow / Brown = Signal lamp. Black / Green = Ground.

Wire Colors on driver's side: Yellow / Green = Parking lamp. Blue / Green = Signal lamp. Black / Grey = Ground.

The hook-up was straight forward and easy to follow. You don't use all the wires mentioned above but I figured I'd reference them in case someone else comes along after me and wants to wire in on the opposite side of the vehicle or to use the parking lamp intensity instead of the signal brightness. You don't even need to wire inside the vehicle at all if you don't care to use a switch to disable the entire system either. You can just use a 15 amp fuse in the engine bay.

These are the connections I used:

Passenger side of vehicle the module is located behind the passenger light assembly.

• DRL-1 yellow goes to a switch on inside of vehicle which then runs to fuse 32 via Add-A-Fuse. (I added that myself).
• Blue DRL wire-taps into Yellow / Green wire from wire harness connecting to the signal lamp. This line tells the system to shut off when the parking lamps come on.
• Green DRL wire-taps into Black / Green wire from wire harness connecting to the signal lamp. This is the ground wire.
• Cut the Yellow / Brown wire leading to the wire harness connecting to the signal lamp. Connect the Pink DRL wire to the Yellow / Brown wire half heading to the truck. Connect the Violet (purple) DRL wire to the Yellow / Brown wire half heading to the signal lamp.

On the driver's side of the vehicle you will cut the Blue / Green wire leading to the wire harness connecting to the signal lamp. Connect the Red DRL wire to the Blue / Green wire half heading to the truck. Connect the Brown DRL wire to the Blue / Green wire half heading to the signal lamp.

Test.

You can test the function of the DRL by turning the headlamps to the OFF position and then turning on the switch to the DRLs. They should light at full intensity.

Now kick on the parking or regular lights. Notice the DRL's will disable the parking lights will work as usual.

Switch the **** to the AUTO position to have the DRLs light automatically during the day and your regular parking lamps run at night.

At any time if you can switch off the use of the DRLs by clicking the switch inside the vehicle if you opt'd to mount one. If you get a fast blink it means that one of the wires you cut aren't connected securely. If you get half intensity instead of full brightness then you tapped into the park lamp wire instead of the signal lamp.

I was going to add pics of the markers on or the wiring but it dawns on me that most of us know what our vehicle looks like with the lights turned on and what the back of the lamp pigtails look like. But if you'd like a video or picture of something specific then feel free to ask and I'll post it up.

This is what the module looks like:


Here is a generic wiring diagram for reference:

 

Is there a reason why this module couldn't be hooked instead to the fog lights to use them as DRLs?

 

it does not look like it can handle the amperage. In all reality, headlamp DRLs offer much better protection, but then again, this is better than nothing at all!

 

I just got this module last week and have not had time to dive in to the install yet. This looks like a very nice feature to get going. Thanks!

 

I had mine temporarily hooked up to the parking lamp (about half the brightness of the signal lamp) ... but surely you could hook up the fogs instead of the signals. Then, of course, you'd have fewer lines to connect because you wouldn't want the fogs to blink. I don't think you'd actually have to cut any wires then ... just tap into them.

This is where I put my switch - mostly out of sight but easy to get to. REAL easy to clean up with a new rubber overlay if I want to pull the switch out later.

 

Can you elaborate on this? I was told to use a 15a fuse. I used the #32 delayed accessory because it was already a 15a fuse (I used Add-A-Fuse so it's fused out properly).

I double checked and each (left signal / stop and right signal / stop) are 15a fuses also but I didn't want to tap into such an important fuse for the truck. You know, just in case.

So do I have something under-calculated? Curious if you let me know your thoughts on this in case I need to run new wire, a bigger switch or something.

 

No, for parking lights, the wires coming out of that module look fine. I'm talking fog lights, which together draw over 100W. I was referring to the fact that the module does not look strong enough to carry that much current.

 

Dealers can enable DRL's on the '09's and later models, but it will be your low beams.

This company actually makes a module that can be hooked into the turn signals which in turn, become DRL's (amber)

Several members have done this. I got this info from one.

http://www.webelectricproducts.com/

Even with this module, wires still have to be spliced, so Imma waiting on my 3 year warranty to expire before I install it.

 

umm that item is what the first post is about.

 

Really????? I di-int look.

I marked the site about 1-1/2 years ago, so it's been that long since this has been posted.

Anyhoo, about the same number of people were interested then, as now.

Not too many..........

I bought a module waaaaaay back then and if I remember right, they were 35$us back then.

 

I have one I might try this weekend thanks to the explicit wiring colors the nice gentleman laid out up there ^.

 

i know this is an old post, but i just ordered the module and could use more detail for this install or pictures as i learn better from seeing it instead of reading... let me know thanks