to understand my logic you need to read my post. im not talking about being able to see the deer on the side at 40-50 mph. stopping that fast is impossible. even if your reflexes were that fast you have other things to deal with, such as the amount of friction your tires can exert on the road and what not.

like i said in my post. if there are deer in the area - they are dumb enough to run out infront of you. any extra bit of light that isnt going forwards has the ability to catch the retinas of the deer and make them shine. if you're lucky enough not to have one run out infront of you you have time to slow down to a speed where you dont need super human reflexes and cheating the laws of physics to avoid a deer.

 

Unless your fog lights work better than mine you would be lucky to catch even the slightest glimmer of anything at more than 50 feet. They just don't shine that far, they aren't meant to, they are for fog. At only 35 MPH you are going 51 feet in one second. That's just not enough time.

If you knew something was going to happen in the next few seconds and were waiting for it, you might get something like at least removing your foot from the gas pedal within a second. However in a real world driving scenario you can't be that edgy ready to move your foot in a instant. That would be a very stressful drive.

My issue is that I don't want someone reading your post and get a false sense of security by having their fog lights on. The benefit is Marginal in the best of circumstances and a potential hindrance the rest of the time.

This leads into another issue that is counterproductive to your theory. If you are driving in a Rural area without street lights or many passing cars (the most likely habitat for deer) the extra light from the fogs shining on the road right in front of you will desensitize your night vision. This will reduce you ability to pick up that glimmer you spoke about.

There is also the fact that deer can be startled or attracted if you will, by too much light. The extra light can cause them to jump in the road where they normally would have stayed in the ditch grazing.

Like I said I live where they are tons of deer. Its almost a daily occurrence I see a deer on the roads around here in the fall on my way to and front work. If I slowed down every time I saw a deer I would never get anywhere at night.

There really is no way to avoid hitting a deer, when its time, its time.

 

I guess I stand corrected, mine also says FOG. However I was under the assumption that FOG lights were yellow not clear. Anyway, its your decision, whatever. Most people I pass have theirs on and it doesn't bother me a bit. Yes my truck is leveled. Yes my headlights have been adjusted. No I do not have HID lights, they are factory. Do you travel back roads between 3:45 am and 5:45 am? Because thats when I go to work, and I DO.
I hit 2 deer last fall in 8 days in my old truck. Fortunately I had a Ranch Hand bumper as there was no damage to the truck. One I hit at 50 mph roughly. Unfortunately I do not have a Ranch Hand on this truck, so I will continue to use my FOG lights even if you say theres no chance for reaction, I'm taking that chance.
I'm very happy for you that you haven't been flashed. Maybe its the fact that there are few cars on the road at that time of the morning, and they appear brighter when you have been driving in the dark with no other oncoming traffic for 5, 10, 15 minutes at a stretch. Who knows. But I will continue to use them, Ford put them on the truck for me to use not just to look pretty.
You seem to contradict yourself in the next several posts. You criticize me for using my FOG lights but you say also that "they just don't shine that far" and "they just don't shine far enough to do anything". So, which is it, Derff?

 

No I don't contradict myself. No they don't shine very far as useful light reflected to the driver. However it only take a split second of your fog lights while passing you to be blinded and completely wash out my night vision. There is also a difference between seeing a light from a distance and using the reflected light back to you to see something. You want me to close my eyes while we pass each other?

Your headlights should be aimed down and shouldn't bother anyone if they are adjusted correctly. Are they same as before you leveled your truck? I have read posts that people couldn't adjust them far enough, that the adjuster screw does not have enough threads and they complained the high beams were shining on the tops of trees.


My old job I used to head to work ever morning a 5:15am. Now I don't leave till 6 but its still dark here in the winter at that time. There are deer all over the place around my house. All the trees around my house are trimmed from 3 feet down from the deer eating them at night. So I know what its like to drive with deer around.

Your right the lights are there to use in FOG.

My problem is that you are not helping yourself by using the fog lights for deer. You are only giving yourself a false sense of security and blinding oncoming cars.

If you are really worried about deer get some aftermarket lights on a brush guard and aim them as far out in front as you can. I have this setup on my old CJ7. Just be sure to turn them off as soon as you see a car coming and not wait from them to come around a curve or over a hill and blind them.

 

Good thing there's no oncoming cars in the middle of the lease where I hunt.

 

ya for real! so back to the topic, anyone figure out how to do this?

 

You Hunt at night? Its not Legal to Spot-Light Deer here where I live....

The real answer is not easily. Can it be done? Of course but not without a few relays, diodes, and a good bit of rewiring. If you really want to hack your wiring up that bad go for it. I just don't see the reward for all that work.


You would be much better off just adding a second set of lights and their own switch.

 

when i hunt i drive out to the stand early in the morning when it is still dark. he probably doesn't hunt when its dark outside, but he might have to get somewhere to hunt when it is dark...

 

I figured that's what he meant as well I just had to say it. I meant it more as a joke that anything else.

 

yep, I shoot people with F-150s looking for oncoming traffic in the middle of my lease

 

2 relays
ZERO diodes
1 Add-a-fuse
3 wires to change, that are not that hard to change, they are all by the SJB, and no "hacking".

You really have no idea what you are talking about........ Maybe it just seems hard to you, others have higher skill levels than opinion pontification.

 

Your way of doing it might work but its NOT the RIGHT way. You now have a truck that would fail inspection if taken to a shop that actually checked your vehicle like they are supposed to. Your fog lights are not allowed to be on with your High beams.

If you don't care about the law, to do it better you need four diodes and another switch to hide somewhere to switch modes between normal operation and modified operation.

This can be done as I said but you are hacking the wiring. You might do it correctly but your average person that might be reading this most likely would not. I can't tell you how many vehicles I has seen with regular wire nuts on the wiring .......A couple months later it quits working and they wonder why, or it comes apart and shorts to the body and they didn't fuse it so it catches fire.....

And my point still stands that there is no real benefit to this except the "Looks cool man" crowd. If you think it helps with Visibility on a clear day, on a paved road, you are kidding yourself.

 

I don't care if there are inspections or not, that was not part of the modification, nor the question. More of your opinionated pontifications you love to expound about, as if you are the final word on the topic.

Let me see, does my way work ? Yes
Does it kill the battery ? No
How is that not right ?

Laws are not part of the modification. Your 4 diode design, please post up a correctly functional diagram of this. Sounds like you are making it more complex than required to be.

So you are now assuming the members here have no talent ?
You are assuming what average is. If someone is asking about a modification, they need to know their limits. I can only provide directions, and NONE of the opinions on what I think they should and should not do.
If they ask, they should get an answer, not a debate about why they should not do it.

Who cares why they want to do it ?
Telling a member why they should not do something in a thread asking for direction, is just thread crapping / post whoring.
Most of your total posts come from you debating why something is good ( your great locking console ) or bad ( this thread ).

It is their truck ( that they pay for ), and they can do with it what they want.
If you want to help the members, post up your right way of doing it.
else, Ignore list is a good place for the general membership to your S/N at.

 

^^^ Thank you SSCULLY

 

SSCULLY, The problem here is that you somehow feel that being that I disagree with you that my opinion is less important.

My point in posting what I did is to get people to think before they do this Mod. If someone reads all the posts and both sides of the argument and still does it, then that's their choice. They made a more informed decision and know what they are risking. You might not care that this mod is illegal or might cause a problem at inspection time, but there are other people that might not want to risk it. At least now they know the risk.


As far as wiring ability, no, I do not assume the average person will do it right. Just because you and maybe some people you know, might know what they are doing doesn't mean the average person might. Years ago I worked for a National Auto parts chain. After seeing the things the average person would do to their vehicle..... I have zero faith. Out of the hundreds of hoods I have looked under I can count on my two hands the wiring jobs that were actually done well.



After looking at your Schematic again...

To answer how I would do it to keep stock functionality you only need a SPDT switch and one Diode to stop from Back feeding the SJB when in Modified mode.

Connect the common of the switch to the headlight switch. Then L1 of the switch to 49 or its regular position on the SJB. L2 of the Switch connects to 86 on the main relay.

Then you need a diode at terminal 3 to stop from backfeeding the SJB and connect the other end of the diode to the Brown Wire chain as you have it.

Or you could skip the diode if you used a DPDT switch and used the second pole to power your second relay only when in modified mode (using ignition on source of course).