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Don't think you're gonna get that cover to work easily. Moving the pump up means longer hoses, and possibly other fitment issues
Good luck with this project, gonna be a bunch of labor, but hopefully worth it in the long run
Thanks for the reply! I whole heartedly agree.... I was able to find the correct one late on friday. Got pics, so I know it will fit, and it is on the way. It has been so confusing to find this exact cover. I think, and no real conformation, that this truck has to have this exact part for this year and this truck.
So I got a good part for some other ford product if anyone needs it! LOL
And it has already been a lot of work, but I think once I get the parts it will go quickly on reinstall. It is a truck with good potential. Not afraid of hard work.
Thanks
Last edited by Schaeff58; May 8, 2023 at 10:20 AM.
Hello, So it looks like most of my parts have arrived. Going to hit it hard the rest of the week (I hope). So I have already installed the came holders, and have moved nothing else. If I just put all the chains back on, and dont move anything, that should be or correct?
@glc
Think you for that link!
The first post is very helpful. I did not remove the heads... and the engine is still in the truck. I found this video, I watched it early on and your link reminded me of it,
I was most interested in the part starting at 19:10 to about 29:10
At 27:19 he shows that he was off about half a link or a tooth I guess, and that marking the chains really helped in seeing that things were off.
I think, for me at least, that this video (at the time I listed) shows very well what @Bluejay was saying. I gotta see it too sometimes!
Thanks again for the help! I parked the crank at the TDC mark before I tool it all apart, and put the cam holders on before I did anything else. Chains are still on so it is timed just as it was before I tore it down.
Going to do some surface clean up, spray it down and swap out the chains et al.
This was a good day in the shop! Got the old timing stuff off and the new installed, also a new oil pump. prepped the surface of the timing cover... hope to get that on tomorrow. Ill send pics in the am.. I am spent...
Thanks for sharing your adventure with your truck. I don't have the knowledge of most of the posters on here, but I follow threads like this because the commentary may be beneficial to me at some point in my ownership of F-150s.
Nice work thus far!
@serotta You are so very welcome! Thanks for the comment and the look! I dont have the knowledge either but that has never stopped me!
I hope to get and earlier start today. Yesterday got embroiled with my daughters car's issue and that took time away from my plans. But that's what kids are for, right?!!
I spent the last 30 mins trying to post pics and text... keeps telling me I am over the 50000 text limit...
I will try again later... sorry...
Trying again. Would not even let me post one picture. So yesterday getting started noticed that the cams did not index the chains. I loosened the cam holder clamps and gave another crank on the crank, (one full turn) and I could mark them and make sure things were good.
You can really see the right side is very slack. The tensioner was almost worn through the guide on that side. Glad I did this.
took off the old components and the oil pump and then reinstalled the new parts.
Couple of things of note and I did not take pictures: first the bolts that hold the oil sump screen tube to the pump were too long for the new pump. WTF??? Rather than just keep tightening and crack the pump, I ground the bolts down just a tad and used a washer on each one and all was good. Also on the right side upper timing chain guide the bolt that came out was too short for the new guide.... So I rooted around in my stash of parts from other jobs, and found one that fit. Torqued and ready to go. I dont think it was grade 8, but it has no real stress on the bolt so I am hoping it will be good. Used lock tite on all the parts and torqued to spec so Im pretty sure its ok.
Old chains came out and the marks I made were exactly 180 degrees out from each other. Nothing moved so put it all back that way and I should be good!
.
Discoloration of the gears is from break clean. Hard to see my marks, I used red sharpie
Ok back to it... ready for timing cover now!
Ok it posted this time! Not sure what I was going wrong...
@P49Y-CY
Hey , thanks for the reply. I took glc's suggestion and went to car-part.com and started hunting there. I first bought one on eBay , I thought it was right. But... , the power steering pump mounts were wrong. So I found a couple others, one in PA and one in SC. The one in PA the guy would never call me back. Kept saying it was still on a core motor and had to be pulled. It was 130 shipped. The one in South Carolina (the one I got) was 100 shipped and was clean, and perfect! That is how you do business! Seems funny to me, Ford could have put the extra mounts on that cover and it would fit all the 4.6's I think... but I found out the only one that will find this truck is one that came off of a truck just like this, same year etc.... Glad I was able to find it.
I think the guy drove it like this a while. Motor ran great, no codes etc... sat a long time but started right up.
Heading out to the shop now. Oil Pan first then starting on the rest of the small stuff, water pump power steering lines etc.
Oh do you know if there is any hose out there that I can use for the trans lines and power steering lines? Lots of 'splices' and I think soon to be more if I dont do all this now!
I was also struck by Fords use of small fastener heads, and mixed ones as well on same part. For instance, the valve covers, 11 freaking bolts per cover. Most studs that hold nothing.... and most 8mm. WTF, why so small? Why not 10mm? Also on the drivers side the second or third bolt in is a 13mm???? Who thinks of this stuff? Then on the Timing Chain cover, most are 13mm, lots of studs there too with lots of things to attach to them... but several have 18mm nuts on them? Again why? Just stuff you are thinking about while switching between sockets and torque wrenches...
Those valve covers were a pain. Had to get some of the ones on the right by pulling the plastic wheel well out. But thats all part of the fun!
IT IS A LIVE!!!! got is all back together this am.... took t for a drive, but there seems to be a transmission issue.... the guy never said any thing was an issue except the missing idler pulley. So I am still not sure if its and issue from sitting or what....
Not sure how much $$ to throw at it in fluid and filter etc when I can just be tearing it about and get a different trans in it...
So at this point do I gotta go to another thread for trans problems?
Also fixed the trans lines that were leaking and poorly spliced...
Before
After
Oil pan was hard, but in and no leaks yet!
So Trans is the question... I was thinking about changing out the filter and putting it all back together, then disconnect one of the trans lines and pump out some fluid when I pump more in? like a gallon at a time? Done it to other vehicles.... but do I even have a chance at fixing this?
Any input would be appreciated greatly!
Also... I did not just crank this truck up... I could not find a fuse, or the fuel shut off switch that is supposed to exist... so I just bipped the started several times... (Truck started first time!) If it started I shut it off and did it again... for a few minutes... after that I let it start and let it run. NO codes or lights or any problems... but it was missing.... shut it off, started it again... Think I drove it as well... ck eng8ne light was on.... cked the code, it was fuel injector circuit off cylinder three.... Ok so I started cking the connectors two were loose... WTF... cked them all as I put it back together... but after I clicked them in and cked some more... it fired right up and ran great... Minus the trans issue.....
Also wrung the bolt off inside my power steering pump.... I got the pulley back on... just barely... and now it will be a job if I ever have to take it off... Puller tool is lifetime etc.. but ya need the receipt... Who knows where that is now?? Plus, they gonna spring for a new pump?
I'd start a thread in the transmissions forum. Before you do, make sure the fluid is full. Please describe the exact issues. Here is how you do a complete fluid exchange without a flush machine:
Transmission rubber hoses are different from regular hoses and more expensive. Did you use the proper hoses to repair the lines? If not, they may not last that long.
@glc Ok thx for that. This is something I was planning on doing so that is very helpful!
So you are saying I have a 4R70E trans.... thanks. SO how can I know for sure? I did a vin search and all I could find was that it was a 4R75W 3L3P LA . No clue what any of that means... I have included my door tag below.... it shows a trans code of "A'. Cannot find any info on any trans codes except here and some mention an 'E' for the 4R100 and a 'U' for the 4R70W. So what is the 'A' code indicative of?
Yes one issue is the trans fluid leak at the radiator, see next reply below. So the problem motor runs great. No codes. drives fine, first, then second, then instead of third, it seems to go to neutral. It was low on trans fluid when we drove it home, but we put some in. Seems I found one of the leaks. I did some research, Seems to be something to do with the overdrive piston snap ring being broke. You can ck this by turning off overdrive and it should work correctly, but no overdrive obviously. BUT I gotta get this leaky fitting fixed first.
Here is a good video of how to fix this, but it looks a little scary to me.. big hands little parts... skilled work... lol could go bad... but I still may try it if I think thats the issue...
