My 2005 F-150 4x4 Lariat with the 5.4L is just shy of 150K miles. So far, other than standard fluid and filter changes, normal wear items and spark plugs, I have not replaced anything mechanically related to the truck. It runs great and I plan on keeping it for a while.

That being said, here is what I know needs to be done: Kediler ve Köpekler

1. All front suspension and steering components. Ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc. Also shocks all the way around. I am thinking Moog and Bilstien for this.

2. I can feel what I think is slack in the driveline when accelerating and letting off the gas. In previous trucks this has proven to be U-joints.

3. I want to do the entire front end of the engine tear down and replace all timing and cam phaser related stuff.

4. Considering being proative and replacing all eight fuel injectors.

5. For the last 120K miles the truck has ran 35" tires. Considering dropping to a 33" on this next set.

That being said, what else would you do/have done? Truck is paid for and exactly what I wanted when I bought it, so I want to keep it around for a while.

 

Since you don't have a winch or heavy bumper up front, I personally would have chosen the Rancho Quicklift Loaded / RS9000s instead. I have driven both the Bilisteins, and the Ranchos, and the Bilistein does tend to the side of very firm. Not my idea of a good ride...

Yes, Moog Problem solver is a great option. Very wise to add lube fittings to suspension. Very foolish of Ford and others to not include that from the factory...

Check the U joints, but yeah, you are due I bet...

Are the phasers making noise? If not, why bother?

33s will buy you back some gas mileage, but lose some ground clearance. It's up to you. For me, I would have been just as happy with 33x12.50/17s and had the Hercules been available in that size when I first stabbed them on, I would have gone that way... I was very unhappy with the 11.5" cross section of the 285s. Hard to say though. 33s can look a little small on these trucks. Up to you...

I know exactly what you mean about the truck being what you wanted. I am so close to done with the mods I wanted, but in general the truck was as close as I could get from the factory minus the add ons. What else I wanted wasn't factory...

 

I forgot about the Rancho option. Worth looking into.

The phasers are very loud. And I am pretty sure I can hear some timing chain slap on cold starts.

The 33" tires should be easier on the truck (mainly the transmission and shift points) while also being a little cheaper and giving me back some mileage. I have just gotten so used to it with 35"s I don't know how I will like it with a smaller tire.

 

Well, in some ways, I liked the way mine looked with the 285/70R17s compared to the 35x12.50/17s. And it is possible I might step back to a 33x12.5, however I was never happy with the 11.5" cross section. I always felt it looked too narrow for the truck...

Yeah, if the phasers are noisy, do the phaser / chain job. Not fun, but worth it...

I may be nuts, and it is actually somewhat likely considering where I work and with whom... but I have told my wife repeatedly, if we ever win the lotto, I am getting everything I ever wanted done to my truck, drive the snot out of it, then restore it again...

Yeah I happen to REALLY like the '04 - '08 super cabs...

The '09 up don't look right to me except the Raptor, and the 97 - 03 are too rounded for my taste...

Of course with that winning lotto I would build the snot out of a bobtail Bronco as well just for hunting lease fun...

 

What about exhuast? How long does it normally take for a cat to get clogged and need replacing?

 

Not really sure. But this might be a good motivation to swap in some high flow cats...

 

Getting ready to order some parts. Anyone gonna beat RockAuto on the MOOG stuff? How about the best going rate on Rancho Quick Lift sets?

 

I try to use them on all vehicles that I do work with. Moog is excellent stuff, especially with the zerk fittings.

The U-Joints are now replaceable. For a while, no one sold parts. Ford would make you go buy a whole new driveline.

That depends. From the sounds of it, you took care of the engine and the engine didn't have any issues that would cause extra contaminants to hurt the converter. Normally if you run your truck rich due to a vacuum issues, leaking injectors, or plugs, burning/overfill of oil, etc, etc, is where you run the risk of early issues with the converters. Catalytic converters/DEF catalysts are considered consumable items and aren't even covered under the Ford ESP Premium Care for example.

Under normal conditions and everything, they are supposed to last 150k to 250k miles.

But, if you want to replace them with aftermarket converters, MagnaFlow does not make them for Cali emissions for a 2005 M.Y. with an engine of code 8, just the code 40.

Here's the plug: If you are in Cali or NY, you need to replace it with an OEM converter. They even mention it right on RockAuto site. But they do sell converters that have the upstream and downstream o2 sensor holes, but they are not for use in NY or Cali. (Doesn't make sense, right? Political...) So if you don't live in NY or Cali, the just find the appropriate converter for your truck and you are all set.

Edit: Didn't see you lived in GA. Then just find the appropriate converter, and you'll be all set. Eastern Catalytic makes one for CA emissions style. But Walker, Davico, and Bosol make the standard 48 state CARB one too.

But if it was my truck... I wouldn't replace that until it started giving me issues.

 

I hope new U-joints fix the thud I feel in the driveline. They did on my '92.

I was kind of looking for an excuse for new exhaust anyway. MBRP has been on my mind for a while.

Would it be in my best interest to go ahead and replace all the fuel injectors, being as I have an '05?

Front end parts will be ordered Monday, along with U-joints. Still determining the direction I want to go with shocks.

I need to find a local mechanic who isn't scared of tearing into a 5.4 3V to do the front cover components.

 

I would recommend the rancho quick lift loaded. When it was time to replace my shocks, I did bilstein fronts and rears at 115k miles. a year later one of the coil springs broke destroying a shock with it. OEM coil spring breaking is common over 100k miles. I replaced them with the ranchos and could not be happier. Love the adjustability and you get entire new assemblies with new coil springs which should last a long time.

My u joints needed replaced as well at one point. The front and rear were staked in non replaceable. They did make a special drill out and replace kit at carquest, but they were $100 a piece and inherently weaker, with smaller bearing cups. I went to a local drive shaft fabrication shop and they made me a brands new heavy duty drive shaft from scratch. The nice thing is that they use standard Spicer heavy duty u joints that are standard on one ton sized trucks. This cost $350 and took four hours.

Moog front end components are the way to go. I did them all. Upper control arms with ball joints, lower ball joints, tie rod ends and something else (forget now) but I have zerks everywhere now.

 

Rock Auto and TascaParts are both pretty good prices for online parts.

As far as the Rancho stuff, I juggle the online coupons with Advance Auto online sales and got the best shock prices through them. I had to order parts piece-meal to get the best advantage of 20%, 30%, $50 coupon, and free shipping. It's been rainy and busy here though, so I could wait and assemble parts over a couple months.

I'm like you, truck is paid for and what I want... And my previous truck was also a '92!

 

Rock Auto always seems to have things for the lowest cost, just watch out for shipping fees. I find myself rounding up that Rock Auto with shipping fees equals out to Summit Racing being 3 or 4 dollars more with free shipping. Summit ships faster than Rock Auto to me as the closest warehouse to me is Ohio, so I give them most business.

As for the QLs, google search under shopping, and find the cheapest legitiment price and have The Suspension Source price match it. They saved me quite a bit of money doing this.


Also if you wait for March to roll around, you can get the Rancho wheel'n and deal'n promotion of $100 or so dollar rebate. QLs and RS9000XL shocks was $520 for me shipped with a $120 rebate, in the end it was all $400.00.

 

Anyone have any experience with these folks? They seem to be the cheapest, with free shipping on the Quicklifts.
http://www.truckcustomizers.com/prod...?vm=FT#options

 

And to update the list of front end parts:

MOOG lower ball joint (2)
MOOG upper control arm w/ball joint (2)
MOOG lower control arm bushing set (2)
Rancho Quicklift Struts and springs (2)

I figured on waiting for the inner and outer tie rods. Take things one step at a time.

Suggestions? Anything to think about doing while things are apart?

 

No, you should do the whole front end at the same time so you don't have to get another alignment.