Differential cover leaking
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Differential cover leaking
Went out to get in the truck at lunch today and noticed the bottom of my differential cover looked wet. You could see a small spot on the pavement where it had dripped. I park in the same spot at work every day and there was only one other small spot very close to the current one so I don't think this has been going on long.
I have not had any trouble with the rear end, no slipping or anything. It has never been opened up for any reason.
Anyone know what might cause this? Do I just need to seal it or is it an indication of another problem?
Thanks!
I have not had any trouble with the rear end, no slipping or anything. It has never been opened up for any reason.
Anyone know what might cause this? Do I just need to seal it or is it an indication of another problem?
Thanks!
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 10,697
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From: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
make sure to check the drive shaft seal also....if it is just the cover seal it happens sometimes for no reason at all....now also would be a good time to change the fluid if you go through with resealing the cover....
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Technical Article Contributor
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From: Olive Branch, MS
In fact I think that is what is on the bottom of the differential cover. It is running down, back and under from the drive shaft.
Thanks!
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Technical Article Contributor
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Olive Branch, MS
Wow! Y'all are on the ball today! I was just on rockauto.com trying to figure out what part it was and had come back to ask!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,031
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
My way .... 
Pinion Seal Replacement.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-250, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER. I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I use a BFW and remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not crooked at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit, may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
My method is to first get the truck / car parked or raised and secure where I can get under it. F-250, I'ld just back it up on my 8" ramps. Set parking brake and block front wheels .... don't need tire tracks on my shirt. Put trans in neutral, paint or punch mark driveshaft at rear yoke so it can go back same as removed, then remove driveshaft from rear axle at U-joint.
Now, I clean the exposed threads of the pinion shaft, the nut, the rear flange / yoke with wire brush if needed. Once clean, I take a sharp center punch and hammer and I punch mark ... the end of the pinion shaft ... the pinion nut ... and the yoke or flange.
I also measure the length of the threaded pinion shaft sticking out past the nut and count threads, and I write it down.
This way when time comes, I can put that yoke back on that shaft and tighten that nut back to exactly the same relationship ... and NO FURTHER. I do NOT want to compress any crush sleaves any further, I want to retain the exact same bearing clearences .... I just need a new seal wrapped around it all.
Now, I use a BFW and remove the nut and yoke and then pull the old seal and install a new seal (and if it's a lose fit inside the housing, you can use a locktite product on the outer side of the seal to fill voids but not on the lips) driving it straight in (not crooked at an angle) ... lube it's lip ... slide yoke back on so it's punch mark is same relationship to that punch mark on the end or the shaft ... and then I slip the same nut back on with same side against yoke as it was when removed ... and apply some locktite on the threads.
I tighten it until close to original setting, then I sneak up to final setting so when I stop, the three punch marks are in the same relationship with each other and same length of shaft sticking out as when I started .... and NO FURTHER.
DO NOT GO TOO FAR.
I then .... if the nut was a loose fit, may take a punch and punch the threads of the pinion shaft in two spots just to make sure the nut doesn't loosen, though the locktite should prevent that.
But that's just my way. I've done it on my vehicles a few times over the years, even a couple police cars ... always sucessfully.
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
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From: Coal Region, Pa
Do these pinion seals have a habit of leaking? On my other Ford trucks a leak is usually caused by a blocked vent tube on the axle, which causes pressure from the fluid airating and it'll force itself out a little.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,031
Likes: 45
From: The Shenandoah Valley
My '77 has seaped there for ...
... at least 10-12 years. I changed the seal once back in the '80s (bought it in '86) , but after a few years it seaped again. I've added a smidgeon of lube a couple of times.
My '07 doesn't yet nor does my 01 Merc GM .... but of two T-Birds, one does just enough to show evidence of it but it's got 145,000 plus on it. I just clean any residue off and check it at oil change time, it's always been there at the bottom of threads?
I have had a couple Chevrolet police cars and a Ford CVPI and I recall a Plymouth once that had leaks that got new seals but they spent some time at high speeds.