Electronics cleaner ???? Careful - some of that stuff leaves a residue.

MAF = CRC MAF cleaner
TB = CRC TB cleaner.

Additionally, apart from unintentional damage, you may have introduced a leak upon reassembly.

That's what I was referring to here.

What did you find with the injectors? There IS a time factor here - this needs to be asddressed/fixed soonest, as every moment this persists is risking BOTH yer cats for an overrich condition.

MGD

 

alright i turned the key on and took out both fuel rails, and I didn't see any dripping or spraying gas coming out of any of the injectors. What's my next thing to do?

 

I'm not sure which codes came first. the cruise control code has been there a while, I'm not really worried about that cause the cruise works fine. the other 4 come and go in pairs. the 2 about bank 1 and 2 being rich stay together and the other 2 stay together

 

This is what I used. My engine codes don't say anything about the MAF



The electronics cleaner says it doesn't leave residue, and my injectors all seemed fine. I turned on the key and there was no leaking from any of them

 

I talked to a mechanic at a local truck shop this afternoon and he said that the only thing he can think of that could be causing the truck to run rich is the injectors. The spark plugs and fuel filter are less than 10,000 miles old, the air filter, maf sensor, and throttle body were cleaned 4 days ago. He said the only thing left after all that is the injectors and fuel pump, and it's not the fuel pump since it runs fine at speeds above 20mph. He suggested i look up my firing order and try swapping my bank 1 and 2 injectors (my engine codes say bank 1 and 2 are rich) with other ones and see if the bank 1 and 2 injectors cause the same problem in the new location. Does that sound worth while to try? And how long does it take to see if an injector is leaking? I just looked at each one for a few seconds and there was no obvious leak coming out of any

 

According to my programmer, my fuel rail pressure stays constant at 38-40 at idle, normal driving, and heavy acceleration (4500 rpms). I don't know if that's relevant to this problem or not, but I figured it couldn't hurt to let y'all know

 

pressure is fine.

I don't think it's injectors.

I'd go over the entire intake tract - remove everything again and examine - remember - that's the last stuff you physically touched. Still think it's a leak, or some sort of damage ( a MAF can look good to the naked eye and still have a pekkered TF) - but what do I know

'Eight-Eight' - any more insight, bud?

To confirm - still does this with stock OEM flash, right? Just checkin' - gettin' fergitful in me twilight years, y'know

Good luck.
MGD

 

I tried it on stock tune and I disconnected the negative battery terminal a few days ago, after I cleaned the intake system, and it made no difference. How do I tell if the MAF sensor is bad? Everything I took off is ok, I examined it all carefully as I was putting it back together. Also, the sluggishness seems slightly worse before the engine gets hot

 

could this be bad cam phasers possibly?

 

P2196 and P2198 come up first. I disconnected the battery and cleaned the maf today and those 2 came up first. cleaning the maf didn't help the sluggish acceleration any

 

After driving for an hour or so yesterday, p0172, p0175, p0581 did not come back up. P2196 and P2198 came back pretty soon after disconnecting my battery, but the other three did not come back. There's no difference in the acceleration

 

Don't give up on me. I think I'm narrowing it down. I got auto zone to look up my codes and this is what their computer said about the 4 rich codes. They all say possible MAF sensor failure. How can I tell if my MAF is bad? I've cleaned it twice with the CRC spray.

 

I suppose it's possible!

I think you should toss the K&N and put a dry filter in there.

A MAF ain't cheap - a reman Motorcraft is about $125 at rockauto.com.

 

the k&n is basically dry. I barely oiled it then I cleaned the maf sensor about 700 miles after I cleaned the air filter. autozone has the maf for $115. it's duralast I believe. is it important to get a motorcraft one?

 

I wouldn't pay $115 for a Duralast. Rockauto.com has offbrands cheaper than that.

A dry K&N isn't filtering worth a crap - even a properly oiled one doesn't filter well.