Where can the recirc valve be found at? Any pics?

 

CBV-Circuit Balancing Valve-used to meter the flow of water to maintain a certain GPM.
PRV-Pressure Reducing Valve-used to lower pressure to a certain psi from an incoming water source which is at a higher psi then desired.
We use these valves in the chill water systems we install in industrial and commercial a/c systems.

 

Okay...one more time guys:
What is the size of the heater hose? As I look at it, it appears to be 3/4" OD. The crux of my earlier posts is really asking what is the ID (inside diameter) of the heater hose. I would like to know this so that I can get the correct diameter nipples to insert in the hose ends once I cut them and I can't drive the truck. So far, in this thread there are conflicting reports as to the diameters of parts that were used. We have:

1. Spoongooner = 1/2 ball valve & 1/2" nipple (not to mention CAT valve?)
2. Yamaha YZ 250 = 3/4" ball valve (didn't mention size of nipple on valve)
3. chris116c = 1/4" ball valve & 1/4" nipple

So the members are posting a 1/2" difference in diameters of ball valve openings and in the diameter of the nipple that is inserted in to the input heater hose. I don't believe that OEM hoses to the heater core vary by that much, so there must be some jerry-rigging, weirdly crimped or totally stretched heater hoses associated with these mods. Can anyone clarify this for me? Thanks a bunch guys!

 

I first bought a 1/2" nipple and ball valve that was the diameter of my heater hose. So I went back to HD and bought a 3/8" nipple and ball valve. The 1/4" didnt quite fit well. The 3/8" fit inside the hose perfectly, throw some hose clams on there and presto. Sorry for the other post it is 3/8" that worked best for me.

 

Subscribing. We should really have a "how to" section somewhere.

 

Thanks Chris. Spoongooner must have forced the 1/2" in to his hose ends...perhaps stretching the heater hose a bit. Tonight I'll stop at HD and get the 3/8" ball valve & nipp's as per your note and some hose clamps...then wack the input heater hose...should be fun! Thanks again.

 

Well i clamped off the hose and drove to work with AC on full in rec and the best i saw was a 4 deg F improvement over the last time which was 46 - 48 deg F. Now this was not very scientific and im not sure how well i managed to stop the coolant flow going to the heater core but both hoses were very hot even with the clamp on, but i think this mod does have some merrit.
One thing though. The other hose coming out of the heater core comes out and loops down to a pipe. Does this go to the tranny? If it does would this cause the tranny to run hotter!
Going to look this hose up to see where it goes.

 

The ID of the heater hose is bigger than 3/8 I believe it is 1"od 3/4"id. I found a valve last night with 5/8" inlet & outlet and it was way to small. FYI

 

I'm sooo confused. Maybe Ford did use different Heater hoses over our model years. I guess what I'll do is buy a 3/4", go home and cut the hose and if the vavle's too big drop $5 in gas and make a return trip to HD/Loew's. Maybe I'll get lucky with the 3/4"?!

 

The "recirculate valve" is just the vacuum motor that controls the opening/closing of the recirculate door. Up under the dash by the passenger's feet. Remove the glove box to easily see it. Turn the AC on normal and MAX with the engine running and watch what moves. You should see a small vacuum motor with a lever on it that pivots back and forth. That is the vacuum line you want to tap into.

Edit:

 

Just so you know NAPA has a much smaller & better looking valve than the ball valve. I would not cut your factory hose. With the valve that napa has you can just add some hose to your tstat housing and plug into you factory hose. No cutting necassary. So it would be Tstat housing - new hose - valve - factory hose. That way if you need to remove the valve you still have your factory hose in the factory length.
The valve is made by "Factory Air" Part # 84706 Shut - off Valve. Keep in mind this part number is only a reference. It is to small for my heater hose but it will let the parts peeps know what you need. Checker auto also had this part.
Heres the valve I'm getting from Napa.
http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/heaterhose.htm

 

Shane,that is an overpriced POS "globe" type valve.But,if it works for you then thats all that counts!
I'm going to bring some valves home from work tomorrow and take some pics and post them here.I have access to almost any type of valve made and any configuration and setup possible!
BTW,I suggest using a 1/4 turn full port brass or stainless steel ball valve and brass or stainless steel nipples.

 

I appreciate the input. That vavle fits my needs because of how small it is compared to the size of a ball valve that works for this application. I think it was $11.00. Also the parts to repair it are sold right on the shelf.
Post up those pics & cost for sure!

 

just a thought-if corrosion is a concern with the heater core how about closing the valve completely to stop the flow and then just cracking it open slightly. that would give some circulation of fluid but essentialy stop the volumn of hot coolant.

 

I think you are looking for this http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...BXB&lpage=none

I am going to pick one up today when I get off work (at 7am)

John