window film (metallicized)
open the windows for the first half mile at speed -pulls the hot air out
use the recirc function on max A/C at fan on 4



No problem in about 2 minutes... Shoot, we turn it down within five miles!

And I have a black interior Expy...


I'd skip any mods to the heater core circulation if I were you guys... I've had one corrode when not getting proper flow before... That coolant is corrosive if it sits... nothing sucks as much as coolant leaking into the cab on your wife's feet! Trust me, don't reroute it.

 

Problem solved...Until Henry Ford tells me otherwise

 

That's why it's nice to have autostart. I can just sit in my office, start the truck up about 5 min before I go out and when I do get in the truck it's nice and cool.

 

what size is the heater hose on these trucks?

 

HHMM...interesting idea. My buddies Chevy 2500 definitely cools better than my '06 Screw. I even have a lot darker tint than he does too. I'm probably sitting at 2% all the way around and it said it was 97 on the way home today and with recirculate on and driving 20 mins on the highway it still never felt like my truck was blowing real cold A/C.

 

I wonder if you could use a 12 volt solinoid in the heater hose. No power = open. Then wire it to your AC for power. AC on = solinoid closed, no coolent to the heater core! That way you still get flow through the heater core when AC is off. or just mount a toggle switch in side the cab to open and close the solinoid valve.

Just a thought!

May do this mod myself as my AC sucks compaired to my wifes focus. Her AC would freeze the ***** off a brass monkey.

 

i was thinking the same thing, id wire it to wire i have going to m efans from my compressor because i unhook that during the winter because i dont need or want the fans coming on when the heat is on

 

Yup, when I was in Cleveland I don't think I'd have even opened this thread, but back in Dallas....it's of interest to me. No complaints though so far for me. Truck isn't that hot when I leave for work and when I go to come home, it's been sitting in a parking garage all day. Still....food for thought. Cooler and more efficient is always better I think, so long as it doesn't do anything bad.

Reading through this I was thinking the solenoid idea as well.

I need to take my thermometer out and test my vent temps.

 

I thought my AC worked well, but this past spring I had my windows tinted, 5% rear and two back sides, 20% fronts, and my AC performance has vastly improved now in the Texas heat with a black truck.

 

I have 8% tint all around and 5% over the 8% on my rear window.I usually run my a/c on number 1 fan speed on max air.
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...r/PICT0027.jpg

 

If it's not maintained then yes, otherwise you shouldn't have a problem.

 

This setup is common on the ford ranger. All of us superduty owners 99 and up did this mod. It helped alot. When done correctly is should only close the valve when in max mode only, thats if u tie it in to the vaccum lines, which i did. I want to say thats the way the newer superduties and excursions work, only closing the vavle at max position. If u buy the ford ranger vavle it is made to bypass and recirculate the water back- in other words the plastic box has 4 outlets. I did this to my superduty in 2001 and have had zero problems, becouse when im on the road for alot of hours i will flip back and forth to max and norm, becouse it will get to dang cold in max. I dont know if i would do it on my 06 screw, becouse it has no problems cooling, none what so ever. Even when loaded with kids , this truck realy does cool fast, although i am still having freaking problems with the eatc at start up, which blows hot and cold , hot ,cold but once the truck moves artic cold.

 

I have a thought on this. Back in the day when the heater core was actually EASY to replace (up until the 1997 model year) and you could get to it from the glove box, when one broke, I would just disconnect both hoses, and put a fitting and a couple hose clamps and "loop" the 2 hoses so the feed went directly into the return. And then replace the heater core when "winter" came. This was just to stop it from leaking.

What I am not sure about, is where that "return" line went. I am not sure if it is an integral part of the cooling system or not, you may be blocking some legitimate cooling function of your engine by doing this. Plus as someone mentioned, the thing WILL corrode (not it, but when) because I am pretty sure they are still made of copper.

 

Just remember when your heater core corrodes and fails, you basically have to remove the entire dash and do serious surgery just to get to it.

Used to be a 15 minute job, but not anymore

 

Here is an old link of the same thing on a Superduty.

http://www.eurekaboy.com/f250/heaterhose.htm