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I fixed my poor A/C performance

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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 05:04 PM
  #31  
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I always thought the A/C evap core was on the front of the truck. it would make more sense since the wind blows through there.

I am not really into cutting hoses and re routing anything while my truck is still under warranty. It woudl eb nice to have some cooler A/C though. It was 100 degrees here at 5pm yesterday!
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:24 PM
  #32  
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If I remember correctly you could find a similar setup on a older GM vehicle, it was called the heater control valve if i am not mistaken. Seems like it would work the same but if my memory serves me correct it ran off vacuum... But still a mod worth looking in too since my AC has never blown cold in my opinion.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 06:30 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Sal FX4
If I remember correctly you could find a similar setup on a older GM vehicle, it was called the heater control valve if i am not mistaken. Seems like it would work the same but if my memory serves me correct it ran off vacuum... But still a mod worth looking in too since my AC has never blown cold in my opinion.
I just googled it and apparently alot of automakers use this setup, looks like you can find one at the local auto parts instead of making one...

I am going to do this mod to see what happens...
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 07:37 PM
  #34  
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Blocking off flow to the heater core doesn't change the fact that the A/C is still displacing a tremendous amount of heat from the interior of the truck as it sits outside. From the dash, carpets, seats, exterior body panels.

My A/C works just fine without any hokey cut off valves or hacked up hoses.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:04 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by bluejay432000
Sounds like a great solution! I have a question though. Will stopping the coolant circulation through the heater core cause it to corrode or stop up sooner? Could that be the reason they kept the coolant flowing, or where they just cutting cost?

I would be concerned about this as well, afterall, coolant does also act as a lubricant.

That being said, I'm happy with my AC performance as well. It does take a while to cool off when the truck; a black truck at that; has been sitting for hours in the sun on a hot humid day. It's also a lot of interior space to cool off, especially in a supercrew.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:13 PM
  #36  
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That hose is coming off the top side of the thermostat, and flows into the heater core. There isn't a bypass there, though I'm sure one could be fashioned using a tee. The way his is hooked, he is stopping his coolant flow, and will blow some hoses soon if it stays closed.
 

Last edited by LariatRocks; Jun 17, 2008 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:15 PM
  #37  
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That hose is coming off the top side of the thermostat, and flows into the heater core. There isn't a bypass there, though I'm sure one could be fashioned using a tee. The way his is hooked, he is stopping his coolant flow, and will blow some hoses soon if it stays closed.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Quintin
Blocking off flow to the heater core doesn't change the fact that the A/C is still displacing a tremendous amount of heat from the interior of the truck as it sits outside. From the dash, carpets, seats, exterior body panels.

My A/C works just fine without any hokey cut off valves or hacked up hoses.
I agree I have a supercrew And it cools the cab My vents are blowing 49 degrees of cold air and its a 2004
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:43 PM
  #39  
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[QUOTE=Quintin;3254451]Blocking off flow to the heater core doesn't change the fact that the A/C is still displacing a tremendous amount of heat from the interior of the truck as it sits outside. From the dash, carpets, seats, exterior body panels.
 

Last edited by RUSS04; Jun 17, 2008 at 08:51 PM. Reason: DOUBLE POST SORRY
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #40  
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Last week we had several hot days, reached 100 degrees! My AC worked very well for the interior volume of a SCREW!.........I'm satisfied with it's performance!........
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 09:43 PM
  #41  
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Wouldn't it be better to just bypass the heater core by taking both heater hoses and connecting them together. With this approach there wouldn't be any blocked hose to build up pressure.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by bluejay432000
Back to a question I had. Do you think not having coolant circulating might cause damage to the heater core? Maybe even contribute to stopping up?
Like some mentioned above, other brands have this set up. My old VW rabbits and jettas had a valve in a similar location. A cable went from the heat control ***** in the car to the valve to control the amount of hot coolant coming into the heater core. My Jetta had 230k miles on it with the original heater core.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:21 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by JohnK
Wouldn't it be better to just bypass the heater core by taking both heater hoses and connecting them together. With this approach there wouldn't be any blocked hose to build up pressure.
I was thinking exactly the same thing. However, the nice thing about the valve is that all you would have to do to reverse the mod would be to turn the valve to the open position. No screwing around re-routing hoses once the weather turns cold and it's time for heat again.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:40 PM
  #44  
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Standard stuff in the Super Duty/Excursions since 04 I think.
 
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Old Jun 17, 2008 | 10:54 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by LariatRocks
That hose is coming off the top side of the thermostat, and flows into the heater core. There isn't a bypass there, though I'm sure one could be fashioned using a tee. The way his is hooked, he is stopping his coolant flow, and will blow some hoses soon if it stays closed.
He's not stopping coolant flow, he's just stopping coolant flow through the heater core. Can you explain to me how that will blow hoses? I don't see it.

Grim
 
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