Amen, like I said before.

 

Phil, Factory Tech offers a incredible 2 years warranty on parts and ""LABOR"" !!!

 

Well if there paying for the labor that's not bad! Hopefully they will build you a good one and it will hold up this time so you don't keep having down time.

I have a 4R70W that was built by a local guy that dose a lot of racing.
I have had my troubles too. Hopefully they got it right this time.It's
supposed to be good to 1000 HP.

Phil

 

Rafa,
I was actually chiming in as a joke...that nobody got. :o I was referring to the "that figures" with bad luck after patiently waiting for this custom build. I really did mean the "nice job" though. I hope everything works out for you. Oh yeah, rms8, I don't know much about trannys, so don't take my joke the wrong way either.

 

Why are you giving up on the PI converter? Is Gregg giving you a hard time on the warranty using another converter than his?

 

Here is how I ALWAYS break in my engines....

1) Allow the engine to get to operating temperatures.
2) Check for leaks
3) One quick rev while in park/neutral to make sure no noises come up from the higher RPM's
4) RUN IT HARD
5) After about 20-30 miles I change the oil and filter
6) Enjoy the engine

This is a method my father has taught me, and teaches his students(He is a Automotive college instructor). He had noticed for years that engines that used this method have shown better signs of wear and always had the most power. Lately(within the past few years) this knowledge from racers is finally starting to come widespread.

Here is a link to better explain...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

People have always wondered why my vehicles seem to run stronger then most. I strongly beleive the way I break in my engines is one of the key factors my engines put out the power they do.

Rafa...is that old pi verter still good?

 

OMG mototune....

That guy is a quck BUT he is dead on about many myths regarding break-in.

I break in my motorcycle engines "hard" a couple of these rev OVER 13k before factor redline, and more after I play with the tune.

Moral of the story, this is no longer the 50s and "break in" is sort of a differnet monster now. IF you read the manual for your F-150 there is NO manufacturer recomended break-in for your truck.

With my truck I monitored more then broke in, I changed the oil every 300 miles the first 1000 went to full synth at 1000 and generallly kept a close eye on it, no mods till 5000 miles ect ect.

 

Why a lot of people tell us to use regular oil twice (500 miles/1000miles/1500miles synthetic) and on the 3rd time only change for synthetic ???

 

Taken from the website I posted... It explains it about as good as I could.

Because while about 80% of the ring sealing takes place in the first hour of running the engine, the last 20% of the process takes a longer time. Street riding isn't a controlled environment, so most of the mileage may not be in "ring loading mode". Synthetic oil is so slippery that it actually "arrests" the break in process before the rings can seal completely.

 

Despite the fact that I concur with your bullet points, the statement above just dilutes your credibility. You should have left it at the points you made.

 

Well people always ask me why mine runs. I'm not saying it IS the reason, but it's one of the few things I do that I BELIEVE is one of the reasons my engines do what they do.

Not trying to boast, say my way is the best way, etc... Don't think I'm "special" from anyone. What I'm doing racers have been doing for years. It is just a question I'm commonly asked.

 

A breakin IS NOT going to make a difference that someone is going to notice through the "seat of the pants". On the dyno sure, but that's it. I've been racing longer than you've been driving. I also know a thing or two about mechanical engineering, so I can shed some light on many of the absurdities that get posted in these forums. I’ll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you missed my post on the last page; hence, your restating the stated….



BTW, post some track times for your truck if you have them. I'd like to know who well the lightest of the 150's performs when blown like yours!

 

Oh I know that alone wont make a huge difference. I'm not claiming that at all I'm just stating I believe its one of the many factors that makes the differences.

Yes I did somewhat skim through this thread. I'm bad about that.



I ran it down the track once right after I put the blower on. Straight off the highway, cooler still in the truck, hot humid texas evening etc. It was somewhere in the 13's with a 2.2-3 60' I think. Been a while. That let me know about where I was, and thats all I cared about. Time's at a track never been a big deal to me. I'm sure if I did some work on my poor tranny, good 2500-2600 stall, put some traction bars on with sticky tires, a mid 12 could be attained. Maybe lower???

Worrying about track times seems to get people all stressed out. I just want to go out there and race someone heads up. Thats what racing is IMO.

 

No Mcdover, Gregg is being the best guy ever. He's giving me all the support possible. He will buid a 3 plate TC for me.

 

WOW, you really need to work on that launch!!! Keep in mind that the rule of thumb is every tenth of a second you can reduce your 60ft time is worth approximately 2 tenths through the traps!!!!!!!!