Any 2005 owners cure the steering wheel nibble?
#31
#32
Originally Posted by 06 SRT 10 X2
This worked out well for me
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ight=Screw2004
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ight=Screw2004
#33
Join Date: May 2004
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An imbalance of 10 grams or greater can be felt in the steering on these trucks. Road force variation of over 20 lbs or so can be felt in the steering.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
#34
Originally Posted by Quintin
An imbalance of 10 grams or greater can be felt in the steering on these trucks. Road force variation of over 20 lbs or so can be felt in the steering.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
#35
#37
Originally Posted by Quintin
An imbalance of 10 grams or greater can be felt in the steering on these trucks. Road force variation of over 20 lbs or so can be felt in the steering.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
It takes a lot of time and someone who really cares to balance and mount wheels (even OEM wheels need to go on the hubs a specific way for best effect) on these trucks to minimize or eliminate steering wheel vibration or nibble.
I've literally spent a whole day balancing, indexing, checking clearances around the hub with a feeler gauge, measuring hub and wheel runout, etc. to get one truck right. The real kick in the *** is that once it's right, next time the tires have to come off for a rotation or brakes or whatever, all that work is thrown out the window.
#38
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Originally Posted by Buzzz
While balancing may help the symptoms somewhat, the problem never really goes away. As soon as you hit a large pot hole, or the tires wear enough for the balance to shift slightly, the nibble is back. I had my tires road force balanced and the nibble went away for a week. It's a joke. No truck or car should be that sensitive to the tires. I have driven both cars and trucks that I never had 80K+ miles with unbalanced tires and I never felt a thing.
#39
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Originally Posted by bamorris2
Can you explain a little more about this, specifically how do you know what way is the best way to mount OEM wheels?
I'm also checking wheel runout, rotor lateral runout and parallelism, and hub runout. I don't want to see no more than, oh, maybe .010-.015" wheel runout. I don't want anymore than .003" lateral runout on the rotor, no more than .003" parallelism, no more than .002" hub runout.
The tire is installed onto the hub with the high point mark at 12 O'clock. Tighten the lug nuts to spec and measure between the hub and the center hole in the wheel with a feeler gauge to ensure that the largest wheel to hub gap is at 6:00 on the hub. If the biggest gap isn't at 6:00, I'll break the tire down and spin it 90 or 180 degrees to try to get a new road force high spot, rebalance it and try again.
The little things matter a lot on these trucks.
#40
Originally Posted by Quintin
It's a side effect of Ford building an F150 with a frame that's like two or three times (or however many) more torsionally rigid than the previous gen trucks. The frame acts as a big tuning fork, amplifying vibrations and road feel that would be ambient in a "lesser" design.
#42
#43
Join Date: May 2004
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Originally Posted by BIG_ole_TRUCK
Quitin, which GA dealership do you work at?
Originally Posted by bamorris2
Yeah, also what kind of a tech are you? Heavy line, tranny, master, etc...
I specialize in driveability and electrical, but I dabble in all areas. I'm master certified by Uncle Henry. I'm the unofficial last line of defense for problem children vehicles here.
#44
Originally Posted by Quintin
It's a side effect of Ford building an F150 with a frame that's like two or three times (or however many) more torsionally rigid than the previous gen trucks. The frame acts as a big tuning fork, amplifying vibrations and road feel that would be ambient in a "lesser" design.
#45
Kind of funny to see everyone copying the 2004+ F150, even Toyota claims a full boxed frame, but after reading about frames in general I found this from the Toyota web site.
"The Tundra's advanced TripleTech frame uses wide, full-boxed frame rails for the front portion, reinforced C-channel under the cab and an open C-channel underneath the bed to maximize strength, ride quality and durability.
Compared to the previous Tundra, the new model features more reinforced areas, increased high strength steel, increased steel gauge, and higher-rigidity suspension mounts. The engineering pays dividends in both work capability and ride-and-handling."
It's not a fully boxed frame from end to end like the F-150, but maybe they have a good reason for that.
"The Tundra's advanced TripleTech frame uses wide, full-boxed frame rails for the front portion, reinforced C-channel under the cab and an open C-channel underneath the bed to maximize strength, ride quality and durability.
Compared to the previous Tundra, the new model features more reinforced areas, increased high strength steel, increased steel gauge, and higher-rigidity suspension mounts. The engineering pays dividends in both work capability and ride-and-handling."
It's not a fully boxed frame from end to end like the F-150, but maybe they have a good reason for that.