So i was googling around for an answer and couldn't find one. I removed the clutch fan assembly on my truck to replace with electric fans, and that was mid december when it was colder, however today in austin it was 82 and when I went to crank up the AC it wouldn't even consider blowing cold until I had been driving for quite some time. I know for a fact I have a plug in my radiator, could that be the culprit here? I just replaced the heater core and thermostat a few months back as well.

 

Do you have the e-fans set to run continuously when the A/C is on? If not, you should.

 

I've been doing that but don't notice a huge difference...any ideas?

 

Hey.

Can you provide the specs on the efan setup? Controller type? Fan sizes / loaded CFM rating, diameter, single/dual, etc.

Are you using a full-coverage shroud?

Is yer A/C properly charged?

A plugged rad should not appreciably affect yer A/C.

Good luck
MGD

 

The controller is just a switch under the dash, I was going to wire it into a thermostat to kick on whenever the clutch fan used to. And yes the stock shroud is still in place. They're either dual 10 or dual 12" fans iirc. And ill check the frion level today. Thanks!

 

These are the controllers I'd recommend: http://www.dccontrol.com/constant_te...ontrollers.htm

Those fan sizes tell me nothing - need either some specs , a datasheet, or manufacturer & model #'s.

And - they are likely not going to be sufficient in any case - most folks either use quality dual 16"er' ( Derale Tornado's, Spal Extreme's, etc), an 18-19" single Mark VIII fan, or an RF-269 OEM F150 dual efan assembly. No crap fleabay garbage.

I woon't play roulette with ye truck's primary cooling system.

Good luck
MGD

 

You said a 16" one but would this dual 12" spal assembly Suffice? Or should I just replace the clutch fan? At this time there isn't one at all other than the dual 10" off brand ones

 

Hi.

Not following you. Which dual Spal assembly? And it's a dual 16" I was referring to. You want the highest CFM you can reasonably get and you want reliability.

Try plugging in RF269 or RF-269 to pull up the several threads discussing these efans.

EDIT - here' some light readin' fer ye:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...-pics-vid.html


2010 efan specs - NOTE the current draw!

https://www.f150online.com/forums/4629749-post6.html


General info:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...150-4-2-a.html

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...than-fans.html


If you are running - or plan to replace - the factory clutch fan, no efans are needed - you don't want/can't run both as the efans occupy the same space as the mech fan. A 'pusher' fan mounted in front of the rad is a waste of time, IMHO.

If you don't want or can't invest the time & money to install a good efan system, I'd heartily recommend you simply run the bulletproof OEM clutch fan.

Still need to troubleshoot yer A/C system of course - that has not changed.

MGD

 

I appreciate the help! I'll definitely read up and post back with what I ended up doing!

 

Are the E-Fans set to pull or push? Need to pull air towards engine\cab. Check freon,start truck, max a/c, fan high, temp to coldest. Wait 2 or 3 minutes, connect to low side, I like my A/C to be steady between 38-42, if it is cycling on-off-on-off slow or quick, it is low, I live in Florida, so I bring the RPM's up to around 1500-2000 and then fill as I do more steady highway driving than sitting in traffic. So if you sit in traffic, or drive slow, fill only at idle. If you have manifold gauges then use them and see what the high side is reading as well.
First time my A/C on my trusty old 98 F250 4x4 started to blow a little warmer every day, I shot leak detector in while refilling, the next day I checked my system, did not need ulraviolet light and special glasses as it was obviously green and easily seen. My intake valve on the low side went bad ans was slowly leaking my 143A out....easy fix.
Hope this helps.....
-=RENO=-