Bad Front Wheel/Hub Bearing??

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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 09:44 PM
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Bad Front Wheel/Hub Bearing??

Well, if you were reading my other post, I didn't get so lucky. Turns out my grinding noise in the left front wheel was not the brakes. I removed the caliper and pads and put them clear and reinstalled the wheel. Gave it a good fast spin and grinding is still there and unchanged. So, next assumption is the hub/bearing assembly.

Nothing appears wrong with the halfshafts...boots are in great shape and the pictures doesn't really indicate anything that would go bad and make this noise during rotation.

You guys ever change the hub/bearing assembly?? Doesn't look like much of a job (had it apart before when I did the lift). Guess I'll replace them and see what happens.

I'm assuming item 4 has to be changed as an assembly?? The bearing is not separate, correct?

Thoughts????

 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 09:50 PM
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From: Brecksville, Ohio
I believe number 4 is all one piece. My boss and I had to replace one on his 2000 about 2 years ago so I'm not totally sure.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 09:58 PM
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Yes on a 4x4 the bearing/hub assembly is all one. When they fail/start to fail the make a grinding noise at varying speeds. Easiest way to confirm a failed bearing is there will be play in the wheel when suspended. The assembly is extremly easy to change, will run you around $200-300 for one and the kicker, if the one is failing, the other one is usually shortly behind it.
Out of alignment for an extended time/ larger than stock tires and offroad abuse cause these to fail prematurely, Killed both of mine on my 03 Ranger running 33's that were not properly aligned
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:28 PM
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And RockAuto has these in price ranging from $103 up to $222. Seems pretty drastic...wonder what the difference is (other than brand) between these. I can't really tell.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Thanks shifty...guess I've been lucky then at 113,000 and still stock. I had it off the ground again just now...no play in the wheel at all, but it's definitely grinding. I'm the type I'd never do one side and not the other...especially at this mileage.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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For you guys helping out, can you go look around RockAuto under

Ford>2002>F150>5.4L>Brakes/Wheel Hub>Axle Bearing and Hub Assembly

and look at all those options? There seems to be different specs even between 5 lug options. Is the brand name the only thing driving the drastic price difference on these? Which one would you get?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 10:38 PM
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Took a look on that rock auto, looks like quality and name you would be paying for. Probably cheaper bearings in the lower ones
 
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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If I go with RockAuto, I'm leaning towards the Timken. I've bought that brand before in other stuff and seems to be middle of the road on price...unless someone makes a different recommendation.

However...on the National 515028 vs 515029, there's a difference in brake pilot dia...which one do I get??
 

Last edited by Galaxy; Jan 21, 2011 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Jan 21, 2011 | 11:29 PM
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Timken is a good brand, I think mine were national. I got mine from advance so im not to sure on it.
The Timken 515028 has the same diameter as the National 515029, just timken listing mm opposed to inches.. 86.72mm equals 3.4141 inches
 
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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When buying a new front bearing be sure you know if you have four wheel abs or not. There are two different bearings the more expensive is one with the abs wheel speed sensor in the bearing the cheaper is without. To check to see if you have four wheel abs either get your vin and look it up online, call your ford dealer with your vin, or crawl under there to see if there is an electrical connection on the bearing assembly itself. As for the changing of the bearing, it very easy remove the tire. Remove the caliper carrier and caliper hang the caliper out of the way. Remove the cotter pin and bolt retainer. Remove the cv shaft bolt it is a 36mm. There are three bolts that hold the bearing on i used a propane torch and some jb80 and removed them. Then just pull it out and replace it. Make sure you grease the new bearing, just grab a finger full of grease and turn the hub while running your finger along it do this for awhile to make sure there is sufficient grease through out the bearing.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 07:18 AM
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From: Brecksville, Ohio
Originally Posted by piston91
When buying a new front bearing be sure you know if you have four wheel abs or not. There are two different bearings the more expensive is one with the abs wheel speed sensor in the bearing the cheaper is without. To check to see if you have four wheel abs either get your vin and look it up online, call your ford dealer with your vin, or crawl under there to see if there is an electrical connection on the bearing assembly itself. As for the changing of the bearing, it very easy remove the tire. Remove the caliper carrier and caliper hang the caliper out of the way. Remove the cotter pin and bolt retainer. Remove the cv shaft bolt it is a 36mm. There are three bolts that hold the bearing on i used a propane torch and some jb80 and removed them. Then just pull it out and replace it. Make sure you grease the new bearing, just grab a finger full of grease and turn the hub while running your finger along it do this for awhile to make sure there is sufficient grease through out the bearing.
X2. I remember about the abs now. We had trouble finding out which one my boss' 2000 took as well.
I just looked at Rockauto again and they all say abs.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 09:22 AM
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From: Sault,ontario,CaNaDa
Originally Posted by piston91
When buying a new front bearing be sure you know if you have four wheel abs or not. There are two different bearings the more expensive is one with the abs wheel speed sensor in the bearing the cheaper is without. To check to see if you have four wheel abs either get your vin and look it up online, call your ford dealer with your vin, or crawl under there to see if there is an electrical connection on the bearing assembly itself. As for the changing of the bearing, it very easy remove the tire. Remove the caliper carrier and caliper hang the caliper out of the way. Remove the cotter pin and bolt retainer. Remove the cv shaft bolt it is a 36mm. There are three bolts that hold the bearing on i used a propane torch and some jb80 and removed them. Then just pull it out and replace it. Make sure you grease the new bearing, just grab a finger full of grease and turn the hub while running your finger along it do this for awhile to make sure there is sufficient grease through out the bearing.
For these gen trucks, Im pretty sure 4 wheel abs was standard. At least up here. As for greasing the races, I wouldnt do that not on sealed bearings in this style hub. The grease will suck dirt and debris into the hub and on the cv shaft. This will eat the hell out of the cv shaft and pit the inside of the bearing races. If the hub had dust seals on either side then grease away but in my opinion, do not grease the races
 
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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 11:48 AM
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num 4 is it. i replaced one(had unbalanced tire f it up) but it was easy...if u spin it and hear what i call a "sand in a marble container" sound then its bad.
 
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 10:03 PM
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https://www.f150online.com/forums/ot...t-how-too.html

link to changing your hubs
 
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Old Jan 24, 2011 | 09:23 AM
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Well...gonna bite the bullet and go with the National. RockAuto has them for $185 compared to $235 at O'Reiley's. They had the National and the cheaper (made in China) one both in stock to compare and there was clearly a quality difference between the two.
 
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