97 ,4x4 .soft pedal even after I bleed the brakes 3 times , changed the master cylinder and bleed them , better but not solid , whats next.

 

Bleed em again. Are you starting with the right rear [PASSENGER REAR]and ending with front left[DRIVER FRONT] ?

 

Why did you change the MC? Was the pedal soft before?

 

I have the same problem on my '97. I've never really done anything about it. They are not the most responsive breaks....

 

i replaced my hard line from my master cylinder all the way to the rubber line. took me 4 times all around bleeing before i got a decent pedal feel.make sure that master doesnt run dry you will be there all day.

 

Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder before installing it?
If so, keep bleeding, and make sure your brake lines aren't bulging, and the seals on the pistons are good.

 

i heard the rule of thumb is to always start to bleed the most farthest area from the resivor and go towards it.

 

I did bleed the master cylinder and started at the rear passanger, I'll try bleeding again

 

Just did my 99's pad and rototrs up front, adjusted up the back drums and totally flushed the fluid. If your useing the 2 man method make sure the guy in the cab pumps and holds and the guy crackin the bleeder opens slowly and closes before that pedal travels more than half thru the pedal throw. Do it till you have clear fluid and no trapped air. And yes do Pass rear, Dr rear, Pass front, Dr front last. I now have brakes that feel like a new vehicle.

 

the f250 light duty brake booster upgrade works absolute wonders also. i went from dangerously weak and mushy to super strong by replacing the booster and rear wheel cylinders and shoes. No kidding, the 250 booster is about 250% greater volume than the oem 150 one, the size different was ridiculous. I believe that the 250 one also has dual diaphrams

I know how to bleed brakes and i couldn't get my 97 4x4 to firm up for anything until the new booster...but i also have 200k on it

(btw, technically, there was nothing wrong with the orginal booster...no leaks, etc.)

 

i used the one man bleeder kit from autozone for like 10$. that worked for me. also make sure your rear shoes are adjusted correctly.that affects pedal travel as well. those self adjusters never seem to work right. the 250 booster bolts right up?? that does make sense its designed to stop a much heavier load.

 

have 95 250 4x4 had to replace p/booster,m/c and all metal brake lines (rusted out, salt n.j.)i had a micro pin hole rt. before caliper on rt.front, cause soft pedal. its a shot,park over cardboard,fire it up,neutral,pump em up.