Correct way to remove ABS system?

Old Aug 20, 2005 | 10:31 AM
  #1  
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From: Visalia, CA
Correct way to remove ABS system?

I know, I know, why? I have a purpose-built, off road only '01 supercrew and I want to remove the ABS system, COMPLETELY. I do not drive it on the street, and find myself getting in to trouble in the dirt with the ABS. I simply disconnected the system at the wheels for now, but I really want to get rid of all of the ABS stuff all together. Is there anything tricky about removing the system? Any damage to the computer in doing so? Is there anything else I need to be concerned about?

thanks
-doug
 
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Old Aug 20, 2005 | 10:08 PM
  #2  
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From: ....I could be anywhere....
interesting question thats for sure

well i don't think the computer will suffer

but if your "that into it" why dont you get a conversion kit with the master cylinder and this and that for what you want to do?

check summit or jegs for what you want

just do it
i guess


...zap!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Instead of disconnecting at the wheel, it is really simple to just remove the ABS fuse, to disarm the system. We do this at the driving school to show the difference in students what the ABS actually does with and with out the system.

You can manually remove components, but if it is disarmed it is only about 2 lbs of added weight.

I removed the brake system completely on my race car and replaced it with Tilton pedal and master assemblies. I have a adjustable proportioning as well as individual master cylinders for front and back that can be easily changed to increase of decrease brake pressure. This is the exact system used by NASCAR.

Good luck....
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
Instead of disconnecting at the wheel, it is really simple to just remove the ABS fuse, to disarm the system.

I actually have aftermarket spindles, hubs, rotors, etc. (http://www.coneindustries.com/hubs.aspx), so theres no place to attach the wires to! This obviously renders the system totally useless, so I just want to get rid of it completely....

thanks!
-doug
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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Simply plumb both front brake lines into a tee and then into the port on the master cylinder, then simply connect the rear line to the port for the rear.

Caution: The rears WILL lock up first, and it will not handle well when this happens.

-Joe
 
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Old Aug 22, 2005 | 08:21 PM
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You have any pics of that truck??


Visalia huh, I my aunt, uncle, and cousins live there. Cool.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2005 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Bartak1
You have any pics of that truck??


Visalia huh, I my aunt, uncle, and cousins live there. Cool.

WOW! Small world! Have you ever visited?
I'll have some pictures soon.




Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
Simply plumb both front brake lines into a tee and then into the port on the master cylinder, then simply connect the rear line to the port for the rear.

Caution: The rears WILL lock up first, and it will not handle well when this happens.

-Joe
I was hoping it was that simple, just wasn't too sure since a computer was involved. I will plump in a proportioning valve for the rear to prevent it from locking up first.

Thanks for the info.
-doug
 
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Old Sep 14, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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What exactly does ABS do for you offroad or in this case don't do? What about on-road? I guess I too will be taking out the ABS fuse :\ My 4x2 locks up while in the mud all the time but I'm not sure if it has 4 wheel ABS and not sure if anything would change with it in/out. I hate when I lock up completely, I pracitically lose control.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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Going down hill with ABS is dangrous. The wheels lock and unlock becasue of the ABS. You want the wheels to lock and stop you. When off road the uneven/different surfaces offer differing amounts of traction. This can casue one wheel to lock up first. You want it to lock so you can stop. Becasue of ABS, the system unlocks the locked wheel and you continue moving. Then another wheel locks up and the cycle continues. The net result is you don't stop. I had this happen backing down a dune with my wife's Explorer. Luckily there was nothing behind me becasue the truck would not stop.

JMC
 
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 11:36 AM
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Agzin, loose sand is one of the few conditions where you WANT the wheel to lock-up.... what percentage of the time are you driving on loose sand where ABS is not a good thing, compared to what percentage of the time you're on rain-slick pavement or ice where ABS (and the steering ability it provide) would be useful in a panic-stop situation?
 
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Driving in loose powdery snow can be a time you don't want ABS. you want the wheel to slide and the snow to build up in front to slow you down. But 99% of the time the ABS will do its job.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 10:13 PM
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When you are moving slow in slippery conditions you don't want ABS. It will keep you from stopping. Most people need ABS. I grew up without it and I hate it.

JMC
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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Would it not be easy to put a switch inline with the ABS Fuse to disable it if needed for certain conditions?


Just Curious...

Dpostman
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dpostman
Would it not be easy to put a switch inline with the ABS Fuse to disable it if needed for certain conditions?


Just Curious...

Dpostman
You probably could, but the switch would need to be rated for 50A if you have the 4 wheel ABS system.

-Joe
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
You probably could, but the switch would need to be rated for 50A if you have the 4 wheel ABS system.

-Joe

Ooowwww. OK. :o

Dpostman
 
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