Correct way to remove ABS system?
#1
Correct way to remove ABS system?
I know, I know, why? I have a purpose-built, off road only '01 supercrew and I want to remove the ABS system, COMPLETELY. I do not drive it on the street, and find myself getting in to trouble in the dirt with the ABS. I simply disconnected the system at the wheels for now, but I really want to get rid of all of the ABS stuff all together. Is there anything tricky about removing the system? Any damage to the computer in doing so? Is there anything else I need to be concerned about?
thanks
-doug
thanks
-doug
#3
Instead of disconnecting at the wheel, it is really simple to just remove the ABS fuse, to disarm the system. We do this at the driving school to show the difference in students what the ABS actually does with and with out the system.
You can manually remove components, but if it is disarmed it is only about 2 lbs of added weight.
I removed the brake system completely on my race car and replaced it with Tilton pedal and master assemblies. I have a adjustable proportioning as well as individual master cylinders for front and back that can be easily changed to increase of decrease brake pressure. This is the exact system used by NASCAR.
Good luck....
You can manually remove components, but if it is disarmed it is only about 2 lbs of added weight.
I removed the brake system completely on my race car and replaced it with Tilton pedal and master assemblies. I have a adjustable proportioning as well as individual master cylinders for front and back that can be easily changed to increase of decrease brake pressure. This is the exact system used by NASCAR.
Good luck....
#4
Originally Posted by Colorado Osprey
Instead of disconnecting at the wheel, it is really simple to just remove the ABS fuse, to disarm the system.
I actually have aftermarket spindles, hubs, rotors, etc. (http://www.coneindustries.com/hubs.aspx), so theres no place to attach the wires to! This obviously renders the system totally useless, so I just want to get rid of it completely....
thanks!
-doug
#5
#7
Originally Posted by Bartak1
You have any pics of that truck??
Visalia huh, I my aunt, uncle, and cousins live there. Cool.
Visalia huh, I my aunt, uncle, and cousins live there. Cool.
WOW! Small world! Have you ever visited?
I'll have some pictures soon.
Originally Posted by GIJoeCam
Simply plumb both front brake lines into a tee and then into the port on the master cylinder, then simply connect the rear line to the port for the rear.
Caution: The rears WILL lock up first, and it will not handle well when this happens.
-Joe
Caution: The rears WILL lock up first, and it will not handle well when this happens.
-Joe
Thanks for the info.
-doug
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#8
What exactly does ABS do for you offroad or in this case don't do? What about on-road? I guess I too will be taking out the ABS fuse :\ My 4x2 locks up while in the mud all the time but I'm not sure if it has 4 wheel ABS and not sure if anything would change with it in/out. I hate when I lock up completely, I pracitically lose control.
#9
Join Date: Dec 1997
Location: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
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Going down hill with ABS is dangrous. The wheels lock and unlock becasue of the ABS. You want the wheels to lock and stop you. When off road the uneven/different surfaces offer differing amounts of traction. This can casue one wheel to lock up first. You want it to lock so you can stop. Becasue of ABS, the system unlocks the locked wheel and you continue moving. Then another wheel locks up and the cycle continues. The net result is you don't stop. I had this happen backing down a dune with my wife's Explorer. Luckily there was nothing behind me becasue the truck would not stop.
JMC
JMC
#10
Agzin, loose sand is one of the few conditions where you WANT the wheel to lock-up.... what percentage of the time are you driving on loose sand where ABS is not a good thing, compared to what percentage of the time you're on rain-slick pavement or ice where ABS (and the steering ability it provide) would be useful in a panic-stop situation?
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