Ok I seem to be having a rash of items needing work lately. I guess it's bond to happen with 92K miles and 5 years on the clock. This time my 3rd set of front pads is about done and I need to replace them. The last set I let the dealership do almost 50K miles ago and I am really suprised that I got this far on their pads. I do not want to take it back to them again for brakes, too $$$. If I am going to spend $$$ on brakes I'd rather put the money into better components not into paying someone to do the work. I am looking to upgrade the front brakes as I have always wanted less fade than stock offers and just haven't broken down and gone for it. Now that I need rotors I figure the time is right. I want to improve the front brakes to decrease the stopping distance and decrease the brake fade.

So to get to my point, I am still on the factory rotors and need to replace/upgrade them. I already know i don't want drilled due to the cracking problems. I was considering going with slotted rotors and wanted to get some input on them before I made the plunge and actually bought them. I can't seem to find any information on how long they should last and if they can be turned or no, does anyone here know?

Secondly, my truck in a 98 4X2 4.6L with rear drums and rear ABS, so it is my understanding that the entire hub is part of the rotor. I wanted to know if I am replacing the rotors if I should just repalce all of the bearings and seals at the same time as they are all original? If so, am I corrent that I would need a inner and outer seals, the bearings, and a dust cover for each side in addition to the rotors?

Third, I also plan on flushing out the system at the same time as they fluid is also original and way too dark. Any recommendations on the simplist and most cost effective way to do this? i.e. I'd rather not buy some $100 tool.

Lastly I have heard that replacing rubber brake lines with stainless steel lines would reduce brake fade. Is this truth or just myth? and if it's truth where can I get them, how much should I expect to pay, and is it worth it?

I am planning to take on this project this weekend (5-6 of December) and really need the input.

Any links to some place that I could get everything either here in Michigan or Online would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Speedy

PS Sorry for the long post..... but I don't want to throw money out the window.

 

Ok someone must have an opinion

 

I agree with your apprach to DIY and spend the money you save on upgraded brake parts. Brembo is a good bet for rotors (try tirerack.com), as are ceramic pads.

I do not think SS lines will help with fade but they will improve brake feel (less mushy and better control).

You should flush out your fluid annually anyway. I have tried a few different bleeders and can recommend Eezibleed by Gunson. You will need to buy a spare master cylinder cap from the dealer because Eezibleed does not come with one that fits the F150. It does come with a cap for the F150 clutch cylinder though.
http://www.aep.bigstep.com/eezi.htm
http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy01.a...1.x=83&I1.y=79

If your 2wd is set up like my 2000, the hub and rotor are one piece. If so, pick up some new wheel bearings, seals, and a cone style grease-packer too.

Scott D

 

Anybody try a set of these cross-drilled "Magnum" disc rotors for F150 4x4 (front)?

I'm thinking about getting a set. The same guy also sells Brembo rotors if you look at his other items but I've only seen them for Toyota trucks and Hondas, etc. Haven't emailed him to ask yet.

 

The simplest way to flush the system is the "water bottle and hose" technique.

Obtain a 2 ft length of 3/16 or 1/4" ID clear plastic tubing.

Start with the longest brake line and work to the shortest.

Using a clean clear plastic water bottle, pour about 2 inches of brake fluid into the bottle. Loosen the bleeder screw on the caliper or cylinder, the push the hose onto the bleeder screw. Submerge the other end of the hose into the brake fluid in the bottle.

Slowly pump the brake pedal to feed fluid through the system. You can do this with a partner or by yourself. Keep the brake pedal strokes smooth and all the way to the floor, then realease the pedal slowly. You can see the fresh fluid when it comes through the clear hose. When it is flowing clear, tighten the bleeder screw before removing the hose.

Keep the brake fluid reservoir full. Do not allow it to run out as it will introduce air into the system and you will have to start over.

Do all four wheels and you're done.

The guys on TNN's Horsepower TV show were doing this on an old Vette on their show. It works fine and is dirt cheap!

Steve

 

Thanks Steve for the advice I will definately use this method as i have plenty of empty plastic bottles around the house. Unfortunately I might have to put off my brake work though until next weekend as they are talking about snow fall here on friday and I don't have a garage that I can work on my truck in hopefully the snow wont fall yet and I can get them done thiss week.

Anyone have any information or experience with the slotted rotors? I was looking at powerslot slotted rotors and would really like some input before I buy them.

Thanks again

Speedy

 

Sorry about that link, the guy pulled out of ebay I think and moved to www.epier.com some sort of ebay clone. Anyway, his name is Raymond and he works for www.eliteauto.ca or raymond@eliteauto.ca

They sell "magnum" cross drilled rotors and Brembo rotors. I'm just waiting on an email reply from him with more details and pricing so I'll post up soon as I hear back.

 

My cheapie discount auto parts rotors warped in 3000 miles.

The sales clerk said that the bendix brand holds up far better.

My original rotors made it over 100K.

Chris

 

O.K.

Here is what I did and have 0 barake fade.

OEM Brembo's from Tirerack.com and ebc 6000 pads also from tirerack.com excellent brake feel very little dust 0 warpage (even towing in 100 degree heat down a mountain) I have worked these brakes very hard and have never experienced any fade. it seems the hotter they get the better they work.

ss brakes lines make for a much stiffer pedal feel almost like you don't have power assist anymore.

becarefull with that OLD FASHIONED brake bleeding method!! If you noticed on the TNN show it was on an OLD vette. Modern brake systems have crossovers and specific bleed requirements for the ABS system. please dod search here and see how many people have had problems after an old fashioned style brake bleed.

Is there anyone out there that has the latest shop manual on cd that can look up the proper way to bleed/flush the brakes?

 

hcmq;
how many miles do you have on your new rotors and pads? Im looking for a good setup and your sounds like its a good one and the price is certainly right.
I have never owned but have heard good things about creamic pads. I wonder how the pads you have compare to ceramics. When I read the info on the ebc 6000's it said they grab right off for extra power at the beginning of the stop.Does this hurt the rotors at all?
thanks for the info.
gordon

 

as for bleeding that procedure will work on F-150s without effecting the abs as long as you dont let the fluid run low and get air in the abs pump motor. if you get a cheapo vacumm pump you can do the bleeding alone if noone is around.

ford trucks are split front to rear so you would start at the RR then the LR then RF then LF.

 

Sorry it took so long to reply. I tried once before and it didn't work.

I have over 25k on my Brembos and ebc 6000's and they work great and they seem to get better the hotter they get. My only quibble would be that they seem to make the pedal feel a little hard when it is the first time I use them on a really cold morning.

I would still be very careful when bleeding these trucks. A lot of "Old" ways of doing things absolutely do not apply to these trucks. (Like using carb cleaner on the throttle body)

If someone reads this who has the f-150 shop manual on cd could you please post the bleeding proceedure here? thanks in advance-

 

Most 4 Wheel ABS systems cannot be bled manually. You can pump the pedal on our Mercedes' all day long and get but a few drops. EEZIBLeed pressure bleeder is the way to go! - fast, simple, and flushes out the old way better.

I posted the "pressure" and "manual" procedures from the factory service-book below. Note that they want the scan tool hooked up when using "manual bleed" procedure - not sure what that is all about.

Scott D

================

FROM FORD FACTORY MANUAL - 2000 F150:

The hydraulic system can be bled manually or with pressure bleeding equipment.

PRESSURE

1. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

2. Note:
Master cylinder pressure bleeder adapter tools are available from various manufacturers of pressure bleeding equipment. Follow the instructions of the manufacturer when installing the adapter.

Install the bleeder adapter to the brake master cylinder reservoir, and attach the bleeder tank hose to the fitting on the adapter.

3. Note:
Bleed the longest line first. Make sure the bleeder tank contains enough specified brake fluid to complete the bleeding operation.

Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

4. Open the valve on the bleeder tank.

5. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw. Leave open until clear, bubble-free brake fluid flows, then tighten the RH rear bleeder screw and remove the rubber hose.

6. Continue bleeding the rear of the system, going in order from the LH rear bleeder screw to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw ending with the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

7. Close the bleeder tank valve. Remove the tank hose from the adapter, and remove the adapter.

--------------------------------------

MANUAL

1. Connect the scan tool DCL cable adapter into the vehicle data link connector (DLC) under the dash and follow the scan tool instructions.

2. Clean all dirt from and remove the brake master cylinder filler cap and fill the brake master cylinder reservoir with the specified brake fluid.

3. Place a box end wrench on the RH rear bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH rear bleeder screw and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

4. Have an assistant hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.

5. Loosen the RH rear bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.

Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

6. Tighten the RH rear bleeder screw.

7. Repeat Steps 3, 4, 5 and 6 for the LH rear bleeder screw.

8. Place a box end wrench on the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw. Attach a rubber drain tube to the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw, and submerge the free end of the tube in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.

9. Have an assistant hold firm pressure on the brake pedal.

10. Loosen the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw until a stream of brake fluid comes out. While the assistant maintains pressure on the brake pedal, tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

Repeat until clear, bubble-free fluid comes out.

Refill the brake master cylinder reservoir as necessary.

11. Tighten the RH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw. For additional information, refer to Specifications.

12. Repeat Steps 8, 9, 10 and 11 for the LH front disc brake caliper bleeder screw.

 

Stainless brake lines won't do anything for brake fade. Brake fade is due to heat at the brake pads which transfers to the caliper and consequently boils the brake fluid leading to a spongy pedal that drops very low.

Stainless braided lines will however give you a much firmer feeling pedal because under pressure the OE rubber lines actually do increase ever so slightly in diameter. With stainless lines this expansion doesn't take place and all your brake energy goes into the caliper piston.

I've never shopped around for them so couldn't tell you where to get them.

 

I just got Hawks Racing 'Pro-Stop" Slotted rotors, EBC 6000 pads, and Bendix OEM calipers installed last night. I only got 30 miles on this setup, but so far so good. I had to replace the calipers because the pistons would crack or shatter when I compressed them (165k on a '97 F150 4.6 A/T, I guess I can't complain too much) so they were shot. FYI, the pistons are made of some kind of ceramic material, at least mine were. Huge improvement so far from stock. Will know more in a month after the bedding process is done.