Front Rotors and pad recomendations?
Originally posted by hcmq
O.K.
Here is what I did and have 0 barake fade.
OEM Brembo's from Tirerack.com and ebc 6000 pads also from tirerack.com excellent brake feel very little dust 0 warpage (even towing in 100 degree heat down a mountain) I have worked these brakes very hard and have never experienced any fade. it seems the hotter they get the better they work.
ss brakes lines make for a much stiffer pedal feel almost like you don't have power assist anymore.
becarefull with that OLD FASHIONED brake bleeding method!! If you noticed on the TNN show it was on an OLD vette. Modern brake systems have crossovers and specific bleed requirements for the ABS system. please dod search here and see how many people have had problems after an old fashioned style brake bleed.
Is there anyone out there that has the latest shop manual on cd that can look up the proper way to bleed/flush the brakes?
O.K.
Here is what I did and have 0 barake fade.
OEM Brembo's from Tirerack.com and ebc 6000 pads also from tirerack.com excellent brake feel very little dust 0 warpage (even towing in 100 degree heat down a mountain) I have worked these brakes very hard and have never experienced any fade. it seems the hotter they get the better they work.
ss brakes lines make for a much stiffer pedal feel almost like you don't have power assist anymore.
becarefull with that OLD FASHIONED brake bleeding method!! If you noticed on the TNN show it was on an OLD vette. Modern brake systems have crossovers and specific bleed requirements for the ABS system. please dod search here and see how many people have had problems after an old fashioned style brake bleed.
Is there anyone out there that has the latest shop manual on cd that can look up the proper way to bleed/flush the brakes?
Ceramic pads-------$41
Brembo Rotors-----$44 each
WHAT A BARGAIN!!!!!!
Brembo makes OEM replacement rotors that are excellent. Order them from Dyversified cryogenics and you can get them treated in nitrogen, almost as hard as stainless steel. Avoid cross drilled & slotted for street use. Works on track cars but doesn't help with street situations since heat is built up differently causing the rotors to warp by comparison. Flush the brzke fluid every 3 years or 30k miles.
Also recommend pads from CarboTech engineering, a little more friendlier to street applications than Hawk (which is also Wellman linings), a little cleaners (about 50% less dust than OEM) and about 20% more braking efficiency (than OEM).
Figure about $100 each for the rotors & $120 a set for the pads.
Life expectancy, about 80,000-100,000 miles.
Also recommend pads from CarboTech engineering, a little more friendlier to street applications than Hawk (which is also Wellman linings), a little cleaners (about 50% less dust than OEM) and about 20% more braking efficiency (than OEM).
Figure about $100 each for the rotors & $120 a set for the pads.
Life expectancy, about 80,000-100,000 miles.
Finally got time and weather to work on my truck now that I am done doing work on my wifes van's brakes and tuneup (family vehicle comes first). So I went with Powerslot rotors even to the advice otherwise from several local shops when I was shopping around. I did stay with the ceramic pads and left the brake lines alone and instead went with a full flush of the system. While I was in there I went ahead and installed new inner and outter wheel bearings and seals. Overall while the bearings added an additional step I found changing these to be easier than seperate rotor and hub assemblies as usually the rotor gets stuck to the hub anyways. Just finished them last night and should know in a month or two if it was a mistake going with the slotted(ie too much dust, excessive wear, etc....). I use it as I daily driver and put about 20K on it a year but I also drive it harder than most people would and get tired of warping rotors a month after I get them. I do have one concern that I noticed after the parts stores were all closed, the pads on the driver side were totally gone, however the pads on the passenger side still had about 1/4 of the pad left on them and the rotor was thicker than the driver side. Any ideas on what could cause this? I did not replace the calipers however I did grease the slides on both the driver and passenger side calipers.
Overall the pedal feel is excellent and it stops very nicely, at least on my 10 miles test drive last night that is. Thanks for the advice!
Overall the pedal feel is excellent and it stops very nicely, at least on my 10 miles test drive last night that is. Thanks for the advice!
Originally posted by beechkid
Avoid cross drilled & slotted for street use. Works on track cars but doesn't help with street situations since heat is built up differently causing the rotors to warp by comparison.
Avoid cross drilled & slotted for street use. Works on track cars but doesn't help with street situations since heat is built up differently causing the rotors to warp by comparison.
Thanks
-Brad
Brembo in Canada
Does anyone know where I can pick up some Brembo rotors in Canada? More specifically, in Ontario? Is there a way to order them online from within Canada to be shipped within Canada?
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Cross-drilled, slotted, needed, or not needed... you get different opinions from different people. I had cross-drilled on the front of my 97 Yukon, and noticed a big reduction in fade, especially in 100 degree temperature, and stop and go traffic.
And I just ordered cross-drilled from Stillen Brake Pros (www.stillen.com), and he recommended cross-drilled for street use, instead of slotted. The slotted are for high performance driving.
And I just ordered cross-drilled from Stillen Brake Pros (www.stillen.com), and he recommended cross-drilled for street use, instead of slotted. The slotted are for high performance driving.







