Install ?? for Plugs and Coil Packs
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Rochester, MN
Install ?? for Plugs and Coil Packs
Hi, all
I have a few questions about a spark plug, wire, and coil pack install I am about to undertake, on my 1997 F-150 4.6L.
I purchased some Denso Iridium plugs, Accel wires and coil packs from Mike @ PP.
My first question is on the plug gap. All 8 of the plugs I got sent to me were gapped at .040, give or take a couple thousandths, since my truck manual says that it should be somewhere between .052 and .056 , do I have to change that. I have done some reading about people using different gap, or is that only for persons using superchargers? Plug is IT-16. AND anyone know the torque specification on the plugs, I can't seem to find it?
Second question is about the coil packs...am I understanding the card that came with them, It looks like the plug numbers on the coil pack are a little different than the stock packs (e.g. on the 8 cylinder application the numbers 1 & 6 are switched on the passenger side pack, and 2 & 8 are switched on the drivers side pack) I was just looking for a piece of mind that when I turn the key, all will be well!
Lastly, anyone have any tips for this chore, from what I have read on other posts, this is a knuckle buster and will make me want to go to church on Sunday, best I can tell I should be able to do this without removing any rails, ect... Will a plug socket with a swivel socket connected to about a 10" extention do the trick....Looks like the passenger side plug way in back will be the biggest bi^&h!
Again thanks....any and all info appreciated!
I have a few questions about a spark plug, wire, and coil pack install I am about to undertake, on my 1997 F-150 4.6L.
I purchased some Denso Iridium plugs, Accel wires and coil packs from Mike @ PP.
My first question is on the plug gap. All 8 of the plugs I got sent to me were gapped at .040, give or take a couple thousandths, since my truck manual says that it should be somewhere between .052 and .056 , do I have to change that. I have done some reading about people using different gap, or is that only for persons using superchargers? Plug is IT-16. AND anyone know the torque specification on the plugs, I can't seem to find it?
Second question is about the coil packs...am I understanding the card that came with them, It looks like the plug numbers on the coil pack are a little different than the stock packs (e.g. on the 8 cylinder application the numbers 1 & 6 are switched on the passenger side pack, and 2 & 8 are switched on the drivers side pack) I was just looking for a piece of mind that when I turn the key, all will be well!
Lastly, anyone have any tips for this chore, from what I have read on other posts, this is a knuckle buster and will make me want to go to church on Sunday, best I can tell I should be able to do this without removing any rails, ect... Will a plug socket with a swivel socket connected to about a 10" extention do the trick....Looks like the passenger side plug way in back will be the biggest bi^&h!
Again thanks....any and all info appreciated!
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,919
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From: Western Massachusetts
I cant' give you specific info on the gap or torque, but I have the same stuff that you have so I can let you know what I found with my install.
We put the plugs in while doing the Magnacharger install. I figured it would be easier with the intake manifold off. It was much easier, but I would not reccomend taking it off, unless your going to replace it with the Magna. It's a b!tch to get at the plugs. Not impossible though. Be patient, take your time, and try not to put too much stress on the parts that are in the area that your working.
The coil packs were pretty easy. Mine had the numbers in the same place as the OE packs. I did the coils a few months after the plugs so I was able to do the wires one at a tim, wich made it less likely to end up messed up. The fireing order is in the manual, you can always refer to the manual if your not sure.
The plug wires weren't too bad. The only issue I had is it's a pain to try and get the wires back in the OE locations. I decided to re run all the wires, to get them out of the heat as much as possible and to try to keep them from touching anything. It looks better this way too, I think.
I'm no auto mechanic and all is well on my truck. The one mess up I did do was, I disconnected the MAF to make it easier to get at the drivers side coil pack, then forgot to re connect it. I figured that one out pretty quick.
Take your time. Be careful. There are many other componants in the area that you'll be working. Take your time!
Have fun!
We put the plugs in while doing the Magnacharger install. I figured it would be easier with the intake manifold off. It was much easier, but I would not reccomend taking it off, unless your going to replace it with the Magna. It's a b!tch to get at the plugs. Not impossible though. Be patient, take your time, and try not to put too much stress on the parts that are in the area that your working.
The coil packs were pretty easy. Mine had the numbers in the same place as the OE packs. I did the coils a few months after the plugs so I was able to do the wires one at a tim, wich made it less likely to end up messed up. The fireing order is in the manual, you can always refer to the manual if your not sure.
The plug wires weren't too bad. The only issue I had is it's a pain to try and get the wires back in the OE locations. I decided to re run all the wires, to get them out of the heat as much as possible and to try to keep them from touching anything. It looks better this way too, I think.
I'm no auto mechanic and all is well on my truck. The one mess up I did do was, I disconnected the MAF to make it easier to get at the drivers side coil pack, then forgot to re connect it. I figured that one out pretty quick.
Take your time. Be careful. There are many other componants in the area that you'll be working. Take your time!
Have fun!
Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 12
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From: Texas
wings, you're in luck...I just did my plugs and wires yesterday afternoon. I used Autolite Platinum plugs and Borg-Warner wires for my 98 XLT with the 4.6. Hopefully I can answer some of your questions...
Plug gap: Stock is supposed to be .054, I stuck with that.
Torque specs: 84-168 in-lbs. I don't have a torque wrench, so I finger-tightened and then ratchet tightened to "snug"...yeah, that's a WAG.
New coil pack order? I'm not sure...The stock should look like:
Passenger side ------- Driver side
6 3 ------------- 7 2
1 5 ------------- 4 8
Some tips:
Get/borrow some dielectric grease, anti-seize compound, 2 x 6" extensions, 2 x 2" extensions, and a swivel joint. A huge help is some duct tape too, self-critiquing when you ratchet a plug in and then pull off the extension with the socket still in the hole!
While the truck cools down, I pre-gapped all the plugs, put the anti-seize compound on them, and the dielectric grease on them and the wires.
Then I took off the intake, TB cover, and starter relay cover. You have to loosen two screws and remove two plugs when taking off the instake and TB cover. I have medium sized hands, so I didn't have to remove anything else...
I did the passenger side first, they're a little more difficult since the plug has an angle towards the rear of the truck.
For #1 and 2, I just duct taped the spark plug socket to 2 x 2" extensions. I used the swivel at the end of that and then used the 6" for easy reach...I was standing on a kitchen step ladder to get some height as well. Once the socket is loosened, I just finger-loosened the plug out.
For #3 and 4, I used 1 x 2" extension and then had to place a 2" on it with the swivel or just the swivel...it depends on the access you have with the hoses back there! #4 is certainly a pain, but doable. Use caution loosening #4 since the swivel extension can cause some weird torque angles and can snap the plug/cause other damage. You may have to remove an electric plug that's in the way for #3 or 4, I can't remember which.
After the passenger side, my left hand was cramping pretty good so I had a beer.
The driver's side is way easy...total time only took 15 minutes or so. These plugs are canted forward and all required only the 6" extension duct taped to the socket, then the swivel and the other 6" extension. I had to remove an electric plug between 7 & 8 since it was in the way.
The most time consuming thing throughout though was re-routing the wires so they don't touch anything (hot or vibrating). I just placed them on the ground and made sure they were the same lengths replacing... Unsnapping the wire looms are somewhat painful...I just squeezed the plastic in the middle and used needlenose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to unhook the fastener.
I was prepared for this because I did a search on this site, so thanks to those who answered previous questions. These are just my "lessons learned"... wings, just do a search for "spark plugs", you might find some more info.
Cheers,
Paul
Plug gap: Stock is supposed to be .054, I stuck with that.
Torque specs: 84-168 in-lbs. I don't have a torque wrench, so I finger-tightened and then ratchet tightened to "snug"...yeah, that's a WAG.
New coil pack order? I'm not sure...The stock should look like:
Passenger side ------- Driver side
6 3 ------------- 7 2
1 5 ------------- 4 8
Some tips:
Get/borrow some dielectric grease, anti-seize compound, 2 x 6" extensions, 2 x 2" extensions, and a swivel joint. A huge help is some duct tape too, self-critiquing when you ratchet a plug in and then pull off the extension with the socket still in the hole!
While the truck cools down, I pre-gapped all the plugs, put the anti-seize compound on them, and the dielectric grease on them and the wires.
Then I took off the intake, TB cover, and starter relay cover. You have to loosen two screws and remove two plugs when taking off the instake and TB cover. I have medium sized hands, so I didn't have to remove anything else...
I did the passenger side first, they're a little more difficult since the plug has an angle towards the rear of the truck.
For #1 and 2, I just duct taped the spark plug socket to 2 x 2" extensions. I used the swivel at the end of that and then used the 6" for easy reach...I was standing on a kitchen step ladder to get some height as well. Once the socket is loosened, I just finger-loosened the plug out.
For #3 and 4, I used 1 x 2" extension and then had to place a 2" on it with the swivel or just the swivel...it depends on the access you have with the hoses back there! #4 is certainly a pain, but doable. Use caution loosening #4 since the swivel extension can cause some weird torque angles and can snap the plug/cause other damage. You may have to remove an electric plug that's in the way for #3 or 4, I can't remember which.
After the passenger side, my left hand was cramping pretty good so I had a beer.
The driver's side is way easy...total time only took 15 minutes or so. These plugs are canted forward and all required only the 6" extension duct taped to the socket, then the swivel and the other 6" extension. I had to remove an electric plug between 7 & 8 since it was in the way.
The most time consuming thing throughout though was re-routing the wires so they don't touch anything (hot or vibrating). I just placed them on the ground and made sure they were the same lengths replacing... Unsnapping the wire looms are somewhat painful...I just squeezed the plastic in the middle and used needlenose pliers or a flathead screwdriver to unhook the fastener.
I was prepared for this because I did a search on this site, so thanks to those who answered previous questions. These are just my "lessons learned"... wings, just do a search for "spark plugs", you might find some more info.
Cheers,
Paul
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Joined: Mar 1998
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From: Virginia
Hello Adam,
The Denso Iridium plugs need to be gapped at .050 on your 1997 4.6 F-150, as long as they are used with those Accel coils & plug wires that is the gap we recommend using. If it were the stock coil packs and wires, then we'd recommend running them at .044, but your parts, between those coil packs and the plug wires, will provde a hotter signal so you can run a wider gap even with all your other modifications to add power (as you continue to increase power, the conditions in the combustion chamber get more turbulent & harder to produce an accurate spark in, so the gap becomes critical when you're adding power).
Don't ever be influenced by the gap out of the box on *any* spark plug, that out of box gap doesn't change your engine in any way. It doesn't matter what any spark plug comes out of the box gapped at, as many applications will use the exact same heat range of plug with the same thread pattern & spacing, but use completely different plug gaps. Additionally, you have performance parts there, not stock parts, and we go to great lengths to determine just what works best with what combination, both on the street and at the track, so it's always best to get your Tech Support from us on parts purchased from us. Just as a tip, anytime you need Tech Support we are even available over the weekend, just call us at our number listed below, select the Tech Support option & leave us a voicemail. We'll call you back ASAP and get you the information you need. In fact, I just tried to contact you to go over all of this, but got no answer.
We do not use a torque wrench on these spark plugs, as when you use a swivel socket (as you will need to), you don't get accurate torque readings. It's very simple, just make the plugs snug, not TIGHT, as there are only about 4-5 threads in the cylinder head actually gripping the plug, and they can distort with over-tightening. Once the plug is hand snug, snug it up just a tad more with your socket & leave it at that, don't put any real force on it.
Many of us use different combinations of extension lengths & drive sizes, vary on where each of us puts the swivel socket when needed (middle or end, we prefer in the middle), and we use a rubber vacuum hose to start the spark plug (and the coil pack screws on the C.O.P. ignitions). All in all, Paul's tips are very good and will help you quite a bit with this task. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the threads of the new spark plugs!
Just replace ONE component at a time, and you won't get lost on wire connections & routing. Take your time, route them neatly & you'll have an excellent result & some more power under the hood.
Give us a call if you have any further questions with this upgrade, & good luck with your installation!
The Denso Iridium plugs need to be gapped at .050 on your 1997 4.6 F-150, as long as they are used with those Accel coils & plug wires that is the gap we recommend using. If it were the stock coil packs and wires, then we'd recommend running them at .044, but your parts, between those coil packs and the plug wires, will provde a hotter signal so you can run a wider gap even with all your other modifications to add power (as you continue to increase power, the conditions in the combustion chamber get more turbulent & harder to produce an accurate spark in, so the gap becomes critical when you're adding power).
Don't ever be influenced by the gap out of the box on *any* spark plug, that out of box gap doesn't change your engine in any way. It doesn't matter what any spark plug comes out of the box gapped at, as many applications will use the exact same heat range of plug with the same thread pattern & spacing, but use completely different plug gaps. Additionally, you have performance parts there, not stock parts, and we go to great lengths to determine just what works best with what combination, both on the street and at the track, so it's always best to get your Tech Support from us on parts purchased from us. Just as a tip, anytime you need Tech Support we are even available over the weekend, just call us at our number listed below, select the Tech Support option & leave us a voicemail. We'll call you back ASAP and get you the information you need. In fact, I just tried to contact you to go over all of this, but got no answer.
We do not use a torque wrench on these spark plugs, as when you use a swivel socket (as you will need to), you don't get accurate torque readings. It's very simple, just make the plugs snug, not TIGHT, as there are only about 4-5 threads in the cylinder head actually gripping the plug, and they can distort with over-tightening. Once the plug is hand snug, snug it up just a tad more with your socket & leave it at that, don't put any real force on it.
Many of us use different combinations of extension lengths & drive sizes, vary on where each of us puts the swivel socket when needed (middle or end, we prefer in the middle), and we use a rubber vacuum hose to start the spark plug (and the coil pack screws on the C.O.P. ignitions). All in all, Paul's tips are very good and will help you quite a bit with this task. Don't forget to use anti-seize on the threads of the new spark plugs!
Just replace ONE component at a time, and you won't get lost on wire connections & routing. Take your time, route them neatly & you'll have an excellent result & some more power under the hood.
Give us a call if you have any further questions with this upgrade, & good luck with your installation!
Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 1,961
Likes: 1
I suggest you use two plug sockets. One with the rubber center for removing the plug. It will grip the plug and allow you to pull it out of the head. You will need a second one with the rubber center removed. This is the one you use to tighten the new plugs after you install. If you use the one with the rubber center then you will not be able to get it out of the head. It will grip the plug and pull off the extension.
Have fun...
Have fun...
Member
Joined: Dec 1969
Posts: 24
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From: muscatine,iowa,usa
You should have access to an air supply of some sort, so that you can blow out the dirt and debris that can end up down in the plug hole after you pull the plug cap off.
Instead of standing on a ladder to get the height so you can reach the back plugs,just let the air out of the front tires.
Paul
Instead of standing on a ladder to get the height so you can reach the back plugs,just let the air out of the front tires.
Paul
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Senior Member
Joined: May 2000
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From: Virginia Beach, VA
Originally posted by Superchips_Distributor
Hello Adam,
The Denso Iridium plugs need to be gapped at .050 on your 1997 4.6 F-150, as long as they are used with those Accel coils & plug wires that is the gap we recommend using. If it were the stock coil packs and wires, then we'd recommend running them at .044, but your parts, between those coil packs and the plug wires, will provde a hotter signal so you can run a wider gap even with all your other modifications to add power (as you continue to increase power, the conditions in the combustion chamber get more turbulent & harder to produce an accurate spark in, so the gap becomes critical when you're adding power).
...snip....
Hello Adam,
The Denso Iridium plugs need to be gapped at .050 on your 1997 4.6 F-150, as long as they are used with those Accel coils & plug wires that is the gap we recommend using. If it were the stock coil packs and wires, then we'd recommend running them at .044, but your parts, between those coil packs and the plug wires, will provde a hotter signal so you can run a wider gap even with all your other modifications to add power (as you continue to increase power, the conditions in the combustion chamber get more turbulent & harder to produce an accurate spark in, so the gap becomes critical when you're adding power).
...snip....
Is this a typo, or am I missing something? The Densos with the new hotter coil and better wires are gapped smaller than stock?
Are there mods not stated affecting this gap? I do understand that gaps will change depending on volumetric efficiency and flow, but don't see any such mods stated in this thread to support such a change.
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Rochester, MN
Well I must start this message out by giving a big THANKS to everyone for their help.....especially 98scab and of course Mike who was nice enough to give me a call on Sunday so I could get my truck put together.
The installation of the Plugs, Wires, and Coil packs went well, though very time consuming. I am proud to say I had it done before dark, after starting at about 1 pm. Total install took about 4.5 hours for me.
I must say that those darn back plugs are a pain in the a@@ as expected, I am only missing one finger, a little skin, sore hamstrings and a pain in my back...nothing a Coors Light or two won't fix!
Seemed like something was always in the way...once I was able to get the rear plug/passenger side out, the rest went well, I actually had a harder time running the wires on the drivers side then I had removing the rear plugs. I think I got most of the wires back to stock position.
My rear plugs were also much more rusted than the ones in the front, this was both passenger and drivers side....they had 82K miles on them, I am quite thankful that I did not wait until 100K...it could have been much worse, what is Ford thinking?!!
Well anyway, thanks again for all the help I recieved!
The installation of the Plugs, Wires, and Coil packs went well, though very time consuming. I am proud to say I had it done before dark, after starting at about 1 pm. Total install took about 4.5 hours for me.
I must say that those darn back plugs are a pain in the a@@ as expected, I am only missing one finger, a little skin, sore hamstrings and a pain in my back...nothing a Coors Light or two won't fix!
Seemed like something was always in the way...once I was able to get the rear plug/passenger side out, the rest went well, I actually had a harder time running the wires on the drivers side then I had removing the rear plugs. I think I got most of the wires back to stock position.
My rear plugs were also much more rusted than the ones in the front, this was both passenger and drivers side....they had 82K miles on them, I am quite thankful that I did not wait until 100K...it could have been much worse, what is Ford thinking?!!
Well anyway, thanks again for all the help I recieved!
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 466
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From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Ford is thinking that if the maintenance is difficult enough, you will just bring it in and drop $150 for them to change the plugs. Kind'a smart actually. Ease of maintenance is important but not a primary overriding factor in most truck purchases, IMO.