HiGuys,

I feel really stupid askin this, but here it goes...
I just changed oil for the first time and looked in the Haynes manual for how much to add. They say add 4 quarts, then check and top off if needed. THEN, run the engine to normal temp, shut off and wait at least 15 minutes for oil to drain into the pan and check again... No problemo.

I added 4 quarts and checked- right in the middle of the line, where it should be. Ran the engine, checked in 15 minutes. There was NO oil on the stick, so I added 1/2 quart and checked again. Looks ok. Ran engine and checked again, NO oil on stick so I added another 1/2 quart. After another warm up and check, it finally shows just under the low mark of the stick, so I added 1/4 quart. Ran engine, waited 15min and NOW it's in the middle of low/high level, right where it should be.

Is 5 1/4 quarts normal for the 98 4.6? Why the hell doesn't the manual just say add 5 quarts, run engine and check in 15min???

4 quarts came out after draining. So it seems theres still 1 quart of old oil somewhere...

Haynes also said to drain the pan first, then the oil filter (located under front bumper). Will it hurt to do both at once? The oil is cold by the time I get to the filter.

And no, oil is not leaking anywhere.
Thanks


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1998 XLT SuperCab w/ORP 4.6/auto/355LS/tow pck

LineX
Bug DeflectorII
Husky Liners
Rockford Fosgate HU

 

ThaNKS CRash.

I wish Haynes could be that clear! Their technical writer was probably smokin that day. 4 quarts,,,what the hell!

Sorry for the rant~
stevec

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1998 XLT SuperCab w/ORP 4.6/auto/355LS/tow pck

LineX
Bug DeflectorII
Husky Liners
Rockford Fosgate HU

 

That's right. 6 quarts. I just took the Mobil 1 plunge this weekend and 6 quarts puts it right in the middle of high and low.

By the way, it was a little chilly when I changed the oil. I usually lay a hair dryer in the case for a while to warm the oil so each quart will pour in less than 10 minutes.

Mobil 1 poured like a dream even cold, and the color, I love it. I've been using Pennzoil and it's a dark amber. No big deal but I like to see clear clean oil. It gives me peace of mind. Although, this drain the Pennzoil looked like it was coming out of a bottle! We'll see if I can keep the Mobil 1 clean and clear!!

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2000 EDDIE BAUER EXPEDITION 4x2

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-->Come share my Addiction<--

 

the 4.6 and 5.4 take just over 6 qts. it doesnt matter if you drain the oil or take offthe filter first, just warm the engine first so the oil is thin when you drain it. put some clean oil on the filter gasket before you install it. pretty simple, those manuals are generic.

 

I also ALWAYS fill up the filter with oil prior to installing it. This keeps the engine from "rattling" during the after oil change start-up. It saves a few seconds of dry run.

Does it make a difference?? I don't know, but it makes me feel better!!

 

The writeup in the manual is a generic writeup and obviously was not intended for the triton engines. I saw the same thing in my Chiltons book, but I saw that after I had been changing the oil regularly.

As for me, exactly six quarts at an oil and filter change. This puts the oil level dead in the middle of the markings on the dipstick for the next 3000 miles, every time. Pretty easy and means I need a case for each oil change with no leftovers. Easy to remember how much you've put in too! Good luck!

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1997 F150 XLT, Flareside , Moonlight Blue, 4x2, SC, Auto, 4.6L, 3:08's, Cargo Cover by Century, Penda bed liner, Blue Oval reciever hitch plug, Driver Design bug deflector, Monroe Reflex Shocks, 235/70/16 Firestone Wilderness AT's, sliding rear window, captain's chairs, Valvoline Durablend Oil, Purolator Pure One Oil Filter, 280 lbs. of traction sand (ahh, winter in the great white north! ), and 119,000 miles and counting!

 

Yes, 6 qts puts the oil about 2/3 up the range mark on my stick. I centerpunched the stick so I can relatively tell how far down it goes between changes (so far I use somewhere around 1/3 to 1/2 qt between changes it appears). Mobil 1 *is* nice-pouring oil! I stick with the 820S filter, too, and have had no startup rattling problems. I do hate the way it revs pretty high right off the bat but figure Mobil 1 should get up to pressure pretty quick so maybe it doesn't matter.

Also.......I also like to fill up the filter, Georgekillian, and it was really easy on the old 302 engine, but on the 5.4 with the filter straight out and not relocated, it is kind of hard to put much in there without it coming back out before I get my arm snaked back up in there to screw it on!

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2000 Lariat, 5.4, 3:55 L.S., 4wd, ext cab, Tow pkg, Chestnut/Gold, Century mid-hi cap, Ford short bug deflector, contoured Ford running boards and bedmat.

 

Thanks for all the replys guys! No more worries.

I also hate the high revs on start! It may drive me to start using mobil 1 again for the extra start up protection... Any way to lower the rev at startup?

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1998 XLT SuperCab w/ORP 4.6/auto/355LS/tow pck

LineX
Bug DeflectorII
Husky Liners
Rockford Fosgate HU

 

You want your revs to be high when it first starts up, this increases your oil pressure allowing it to get to the critical parts faster. At 750 RPM your oil pressure is relatively low and would take slightly longer for the oil to get where it needs to be.